As explained by Nuts & Bolts


This works!!

As explained by Nuts & Bolts
This works!!

First up...thanks for the post! The picture makes it really clear.

Should you do this with a bare shaft, or does it matter?

I do something very similar but I walk back in 5 yd increments out to 40 yards and use the same pin all the way back. Not looking to hit the x, but looking for left/right impacts. It will tell you if your rest needs to be moved. If you get a sting of holes that fades left or right (it will be amplified by the distance, so the farther back you go, the more left or right from the string your arrows will impact) move the rest the opposite direction. Just remember that a micro move on the rest results in big movement down range!

First up...thanks for the post! The picture makes it really clear.

Should you do this with a bare shaft, or does it matter?

Fletched. You don't really need a 5 spot, a blank sheet will work, so long as you can see the string clearly. Then just shoot your 3 arrow group from top to bottom or vise vs. If you can shoot 2 arrows on the left edge and 1 arrow on the right edge of the string (or opposite), you're in good shape.

If you're in the general ball park when starting, It doesn't take much time at all.

Nice Topic BuckeyeRed.
I'm new to archery and was wondering what role the rest played (besides supporting the arrow) in adjusting for accuracy, beyond what the adjusting the sight pins would do. I'm currently sighting in my "new" preowned bow (2006 PSE Nova for the first time at 10 yards. I had to move the sight bracket (holding all the sight pins) all the way over to the right as the arrow was going way right. The arrows are now going "marginally" centered, but still favoring right a bit. I was wondering if moving the rest to the left is an acceptable way of adjusting for this. I have no manual to refer to. Your article should be very helpful, especially as I get out to 20/30/40 yards.

I am wondering though, if I should move the sight bracket back to the left a bit and then make up the difference by moving the rest. Your thoughts please.

Al

i would move sights back a bit then finish the tuning at the rest just so when your "done" you will have some play left in the sights.

It works as far as it goes, but it is only a method of rough tuning like paper tears... it'll get you in the ball park.

Question does this change for a lefty versus a right hander, as well as a release shooter versus fingers.

If this would be affected by a lefty vs righty how does that apply ? a finger shooter will have the string roll off of the fingers

But I always wondered how the charts reflect a good release shooter RH/LH when watching high speed video, the oscillation of the arrow is probably the same

What’s your thoughts?

Question does this change for a lefty versus a right hander, as well as a release shooter versus fingers.

If this would be affected by a lefty vs righty how does that apply ? a finger shooter will have the string roll off of the fingers

But I always wondered how the charts reflect a good release shooter RH/LH when watching high speed video, the oscillation of the arrow is probably the same

What’s your thoughts?


I was kinda hoping that some of the high tech guru's would dissect, pick it apart and analyze some of the physics and theories behind d some of this.:biggrin1:

I was kinda hoping that some of the high tech guru's would dissect, pick it apart and analyze some of the physics and theories behind d some of this.:biggrin1:

Most have learned not to comment in public...:wave:

With this close up method, how does it work out at 40 or 50 yards?

The french tuning method that I know uses the same pin at about 1-2 yds and at about 55yds, which assumes that they both hit the same vertical point of impact. Also, your sight needs to be set up correctly so that all pins are in the correct vertical plane parallel to string. Most sights are made well enough to meet this requirement, but you never know!

1) Set your sight to hit dead on a point at 1-2 yds.
2) Shoot the bow at 55 yds. If you hit left or right, adjust rest accordingly and start over. If you hit dead on, then you are done.

yes it works well

You can always shoot from your knees too, that can get you straight on. Follow the tuning guide, it really works. Also, adjust in small increments so you can change it back if need be. I always tune either horizontally or vertically first or vice versa, one direction then the other

Thanks for the tip! I'm always looking for a new method to do anything. :)

A long overdue thanks Javi

As explained by Nuts & Bolts


This works!!

You know Buckeye,
Everyone should own a Nuts and Bolts of Archery, it's free and provides an A to Z on archery, with the majority of information from average archers and pro archers from members of Archery Forums. Now how many Books let the average archer share their experiences? I love the book.