1. First clean the end of the shaft with a good cleaner. I use Acetone. It cleans and dries fast.

Here is a good view of a straight and right hand helix clamp.

2. This is a grayling jig. You adjust the offset by loosening the 2 knobs and set the offset. Then tighten down the knobs.

3. On my jig it has a shaft indexer. So set it to the shaft size, Insert the split in the nock with the nock and fletching indexer.

On the side of the Grayling clamps there is a scale. Pick how far down you want your vanes and use that make on all 3 vanes.

4. Slip the vane all the way into the clamp to the gluing flange.

5. I use goat tuff glue. I dab a few drops down the vane.

6. Then use the edge of the bottle to spread the glue even. When doing it this way it takes very little glue. A little goes a long way.

7. Butt the end of the clamp against the nock receiver.

8. Slide the clamp down the magnet until the vane is all the way down. Some times a little glue will come out from under the vane.

9. I wait 30 seconds and remove the clamp slowly.

10. Rotate the nock receiver to the next stop.

11. Repeat steps 6, 7, 8,9, and10

12. Dab a drop of glue on the front of each vane.

Here are a few other pics of the finished arrow.
Feathers fletch the same but you have to let the glue dry a little more.

Here is a link to a question thread if you have any. I will be more then happy to help.
http://www.3dshoots.com/forums/showthread.php?p=185543#post185543

I wouldn't fletch with 4 inch vanes or without pants on..but you have the general technique down.

I took a board, like a 2X8, 3 feet long and screwed in some screws to hold the stand, works like a charm. :cool:

I wouldn't fletch with 4 inch vanes or without pants on..but you have the general technique down.

I took a board, like a 2X8, 3 feet long and screwed in some screws to hold the stand, works like a charm. :cool:

ok this is not a thread for your dumb comments slippy. I have shorts on. People want to learn that is what it is for.

Helpful post. Thanks, QSA. :peace:

ok this is not a thread for your dumb comments slippy. I have shorts on. People want to learn that is what it is for.

Yeah but his comment about mounting the jig to a board is good advice and makes for a more stable work platform. I used a 1x4 about 10" long (a piece of scrap laying in my workshop) and put some felt pads on the bottom to keep from scratching work surfaces.

Ron

Thanks for the tip! I'm always looking for a new method to do anything. :)

Nice write up... I have the same jig..thou must be a older version... it does not have that arrrow index wheel. mounted mine to a board

Thanks for the good info!

I've seen some people take a piece of sand paper to scuff the carbon shaft before putting vanes on, is this necessary?

I've seen some people take a piece of sand paper to scuff the carbon shaft before putting vanes on, is this necessary?

I use scotch brite pads......

I use scotch brite pads......


Yea thats what i meant sorry lol :D Its ok to do this without harming the arrow?

Do you glue in your nocks?

Do you clean the vanes with the cleaner?

New to the forums. Thanks for the posting, I have all the equipment for fletching but just a little itimidated by the process. I'm going to give it a go this weekend.

-Craig

I tried it and it isn't that hard. I wish I made the decision to try it sooner.

Use good old dish soap and water to clean your arrows. Acetone and some alcohols leave a film on the arrows and can also break down carbon fibers. Dish soap will remove any oils from your finger on the arrows or any film on the arrows. I have been making arrow far over 45 year ans have not had any problems. Try it and then fill the arrow and see how squeaky clean they get and no film period

I've always added a little dab of glue to the front and back of the fletch

Great how to, with photos to boot.

I too am a proponent of using acetone if the vanes are not pre treated at the factory with a bonding agent.