Jay Are
11-24-2008, 05:02 AM
I have been toying around with the longbow and making wooden arrows.
When I taper my arrows and apply my points, I can't seem to get the points straight (align with the arrow). I have tried to reheat and re-align them, but can't seem to get them to spin without thumping.
Is there an easier way to get this done or what am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
Limey
11-24-2008, 06:19 AM
I have been toying around with the longbow and making wooden arrows.
When I taper my arrows and apply my points, I can't seem to get the points straight (align with the arrow). I have tried to reheat and re-align them, but can't seem to get them to spin without thumping.
Is there an easier way to get this done or what am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
When I have made wooden arrows I have never had this problem ...are you using the correct taper angle?
Also parallel points are often easier to use and get around this issue. In the UK a lot of people are now using screw on points which I have never tried but some people love them.
BUNNYMAN
11-24-2008, 08:24 AM
When I have made wooden arrows I have never had this problem ...are you using the correct taper angle?
Also parallel points are often easier to use and get around this issue. In the UK a lot of people are now using screw on points which I have never tried but some people love them.
sounds like that would solve alot of problems......:noidea:
Pinelander
11-24-2008, 09:40 PM
What diameter are the shafts, and what size are the points? Do they match.... ex: 11/32" shaft and 11/32" point.
Don't jam the point straight onto the taper. Turn it as you afix it to the taper. Spin the arrow, if it doesn't spin true.... turn the point on the shaft in one direction and then the other. Spin again. Keep doing that until it spins true. If still not right, take the point off, apply more hot melt, and then try again. Use plenty of hot melt so that you are forcing it out when pushng the point on. When the glue is hot, the point will actually want to slide back off. Keep slight pressure on the point (but enough to force the glue out the end. Keep appying presure and turning until glue begins to cool down. Some of the shafts will be easy and others will take more tries to get it right. With tapered wood shafts, you aren't working with micro-machined precision.... so you have to mess arround with it until you get it to spin true.
Pine (I know wood) Lander