What is something you have learned, or do, that you would like to share with everyone else. Onething I have learnd is to mark your sight, rest, cams, limb bolts, ect. I often use white out, or a pencil. It is always nice to be able to look at a mark and know if something has moved. It can be quite a time saver. Something else I do, is on my Trophy Taker, I have a rubber band tied to the cord to help keep it out of the way after the shot.

If you have any tips you want to share, please do.

Jeff

Here's a tip... remember to serve in your peep. I had two knots to hold the peep in place but it wan't served and it moved. This makes for a frustrating field round.

This is hunting gear related more than bow related.

I have had the misfortune of dropping things from my stand as I unload my pack. Actually, it it almost for sure I'll drop something back to the ground. From grunt calls to thermos bottles, I have dropped almost everything I own at least once.

A good friend of mine who has the same issues gave me a fix for this disease. And yes, it is a disease. The proper name for it is Disfunctional Involuntary Propulsion of Meaningful Equipment or D.I.P M.E. for short. There is no cure, only a way to survive the disease.

Here's how to:

Take a very large treble hook (it can be a weighted hook if you wish) and file the barbs completely off. Tie on about 50 feet nylon string. Wrap the string around the shank of the hook. Now, store it so there is NO POSSIBLE way you can drop it from your pack.

You can easily retreive ("fish up" as I call it) items that you drop from your perch without climbing down. For hard to catch gear like thermos bottles, you may want to tape on a loop of string or something. Since you removed the barbs from the hook, you can "fish up" clothing without having to worry yourself sick trying to remove the hook.

I have "fished up" quivers, calls, sandwiches, jackets, and many more items with this simple, but, revolutionary piece of equipment. I hope that this helps some one in need. :)

WRBC Pinky-

That is a great idea. I know I for one have been up and down a tree more than once getting something that I have dropped.

Here's a hunting tip.

Spin check your new broadheads. Do not assume they are on straight. Spin them on the tip. Watch about 1" above the broadhead for it to wobble. If you have an arrow spinner, it is even easier to look for wobble.

Some heads you cannot get on straight no matter what you do. They can be manufactured incorrectly. Don't assume they are perfect.

If they wobble, they will not group right. You will just get frustrated. Another option that does help is the G5 ASD device that allows you to square the end of the arrow.

If you installed the inserts with hot melt, heat the shaft (aluminum only) and then spin the broadhead 1/3 of a turn for 3-blades. Then allow to cool slightly and re-check the spin again. You may have to repeat this process a couple times.

Many long time hunters already know this but thought it may help some new hunters

shoot every bow you can till you find the one you like best, for me it was a Mathews Outback.

I guess one thing I've learned is to do all my own work on my bow. Then I know what makes things happen. On changing string and cables---change them one at a time. Take measurements and write them down. Mark your cam where it passes through the limbs. Measure brace height, ATA, actual peak weight. Check the height of your nocking point above square. Height to kisser button and peep from nocking point. Change the string first and set all your measurements up on that string. Go shoot the bow a few hundred shots to settle the string and retime everything as necessary. Then change the cable doing the same thing--shoot it and then readjust all your marks as necessary. That's how you get a bow shooting exactly as it was before you made the change in rigging.

if i only had a bow press....

if i only had a bow press....

Well, I've got two. One is a bench mounted Apple hyraulic. The other is a Bowmaster portable with the split-limb adaptors. I find myself using the Bowmaster more than the Apple simply because a lot of my adjustments are done at the range. Tuning, tuning, tuning. And then tinkering once I get it tuned.

A Bowmaster with the split-limb adaptors costs about $50.

thats not too bad, and i wouldnt have to worry bout the split limbs adap.

You don't necessarily need the split limb adaptors but I like using them so as not to mar the limbs in any way. I originally got them when I shot split limbs. Now that I have solid limbs I still use them. They cost about $12. You can try it without them first and see what you think.

This is hunting gear related more than bow related.

I have had the misfortune of dropping things from my stand as I unload my pack. Actually, it it almost for sure I'll drop something back to the ground. From grunt calls to thermos bottles, I have dropped almost everything I own at least once.

A good friend of mine who has the same issues gave me a fix for this disease. And yes, it is a disease. The proper name for it is Disfunctional Involuntary Propulsion of Meaningful Equipment or D.I.P M.E. for short. There is no cure, only a way to survive the disease.

Here's how to:

Take a very large treble hook (it can be a weighted hook if you wish) and file the barbs completely off. Tie on about 50 feet nylon string. Wrap the string around the shank of the hook. Now, store it so there is NO POSSIBLE way you can drop it from your pack.

You can easily retreive ("fish up" as I call it) items that you drop from your perch without climbing down. For hard to catch gear like thermos bottles, you may want to tape on a loop of string or something. Since you removed the barbs from the hook, you can "fish up" clothing without having to worry yourself sick trying to remove the hook.

I have "fished up" quivers, calls, sandwiches, jackets, and many more items with this simple, but, revolutionary piece of equipment. I hope that this helps some one in need. :)
I'd rather be hunting in my deerstand than fishin'

I guess one thing I've learned is to do all my own work on my bow. Then I know what makes things happen. On changing string and cables---change them one at a time. Take measurements and write them down. Mark your cam where it passes through the limbs. Measure brace height, ATA, actual peak weight. Check the height of your nocking point above square. Height to kisser button and peep from nocking point. Change the string first and set all your measurements up on that string. Go shoot the bow a few hundred shots to settle the string and retime everything as necessary. Then change the cable doing the same thing--shoot it and then readjust all your marks as necessary. That's how you get a bow shooting exactly as it was before you made the change in rigging.
I do and enjoy archery 10 fold.

Well, I've got two. One is a bench mounted Apple hyraulic. The other is a Bowmaster portable with the split-limb adaptors. I find myself using the Bowmaster more than the Apple simply because a lot of my adjustments are done at the range. Tuning, tuning, tuning. And then tinkering once I get it tuned.

A Bowmaster with the split-limb adaptors costs about $50.
The sureloc is the bomb,the little bowmaster is nice for a trip,a quick fix,I would not recommend using it without the leather strips for solid limbs,it does crack em',I know.

It wasn't easy but the arm on the trophy taker comes apart ad inside there's two holes if you can put the spring in the next hole it will drop faster via,arrow not hitting the rest and it getting out of the way of the larger fletchings out such as quickspins or blazers,recommend this to anyone planning on pushing 280 or so.