I want to add a nock travel jig to my pile of tools.

Anyone build one of these?
I have some rough ideas on how to do it but if someone already has plans for a good one, that would be great.

whats a nock travel jig???

what does it tell you or do for you.....

and why is it important???

I really have no IDEA and thats why I ask......:noidea:

what a nock travel jig???

what does it tell you or do for you.....

and why is it important???

I really have no IDEA and thats why I ask......:noidea:

I second that. What is it and what does it do ?:noidea:

Ron

AND I AM SLOW........


PICS OR DIAGRAMS please....:laugh:

I think it shows nock travel.

Any other questions? :laugh:

I think it shows nock travel.

Any other questions? :laugh:

really????

hey hows the grill???:doh:

I was simply wondering.......i may need one of these......:peace:

it is to show you how level or unlevel your nock travel is when the arrow leaves the bow. Ideally, you want the nock travel to be straight and level. They are actually two different things.

Level and straight would be

-----------------------

Straight would be a straight line but not necessary level.

Knowing this aids in bow tuning.

really????

hey hows the grill???:doh:

I was simply wondering.......i may need one of these......:peace:

I hear they like to jump out and run around on Rt 78... you may want to look down there :Cry:

Here's a pic that might help....

it is to show you how level or unlevel your nock travel is when the arrow leaves the bow. Ideally, you want the nock travel to be straight and level. They are actually two different things.

Level and straight would be

-----------------------

Straight would be a straight line but not necessary level.

Knowing this aids in bow tuning.

o.k. so how would you build one of these??

you would have to shoot the arrow to check this right???:noidea:

Here's a pic that might help....

I got that part but am wondering how you would check this without slow motion video.....

Do not hsve a clue on that one but here is one for the masses. Anyone here besides me have a true center shot or nock travel bow?

I started adding one to my homemade draw board, but I ran into some snags, I wasn't getting consistant results. :doh: I kind of put it on the back burner for now. I'll post some pictures of the draw for now if anyone is interested, maybe it will spark someones imagination. :rolleyes:

I started adding one to my homemade draw board, but I ran into some snags, I wasn't getting consistant results. :doh: I kind of put it on the back burner for now. I'll post some pictures of the draw for now if anyone is interested, maybe it will spark someones imagination. :rolleyes:

yes pics are good.....:biggrin1:

Okay... here we are...

holy crap...its a super GIGANTIC hoyt crossbow.....:biggrin1: :biggrin1:

DUDE....you like green???

is that a imitation, one of a kind, limited edition.......XPRESS...KNOCK IT OFF:biggrin1:

Green paint was available at the time... :eyebrows:

Green paint was available at the time... :eyebrows:

I kinda like it.......

now answer the other QUESTION JOE, the one of a kind question.........:mad:


and lastly what color green is that....I am thinking a certain SCEPTER would look good in that green.......:laugh:

Green paint was available at the time... :eyebrows:
Now thats is to cool:laugh: :laugh:

Joe_P

Ok, I see the flaw in your jig.

The bow must be mounted so the riser can't pivot at the grip. This is really important. The second problem is that your board needs to be longer. You do not want the crank to give false results by pulling up or down on the string. By having a longer board it will be less likely to influence the draw and pen location.

It looks like your board has a slot in it that forces the location of the string to jig attachement. This must be free floating.

Joe_P

Ok, I see the flaw in your jig.

The bow must be mounted so the riser can't pivot at the grip. This is really important. The second problem is that your board needs to be longer. You do not want the crank to give false results by pulling up or down on the string. By having a longer board it will be less likely to influence the draw and pen location.

It looks like your board has a slot in it that forces the location of the string to jig attachement. This must be free floating.


Howed ya learn so much about this. Are they amde comercially.. Look here Joe
"mo money"

Joe_P

Ok, I see the flaw in your jig.

The bow must be mounted so the riser can't pivot at the grip. This is really important. The second problem is that your board needs to be longer. You do not want the crank to give false results by pulling up or down on the string. By having a longer board it will be less likely to influence the draw and pen location.

It looks like your board has a slot in it that forces the location of the string to jig attachement. This must be free floating.

really all i see is a pin that the grip sets against....seems to me it would be able to pivot......

and what if you added a chanell for the cable to go thru before it got to where it hooked to the string....???

really all i see is a pin that the grip sets against....seems to me it would be able to pivot......

and what if you added a chanell for the cable to go thru before it got to where it hooked to the string....???

That's my point. The bow cannot pivot or this will not show valid results.

That's my point. The bow cannot pivot or this will not show valid results.

ohhhhhhh I read your post wrong sorry.......:doh:

Howed ya learn so much about this. Are they amde comercially.. Look here Joe
"mo money"

How'd I learn about this. It just so happens that one day this guy walks into my shop. He introduces himself as one of the big cheeses at Mathews. His wife had a class reunion in town. They were getting gas next door and he noticed the Mathews sign and came over.

We were chatting about bows and testing, etc. He noticed my draw jig that I use to check cam timing and he mentioned that with a bit of modification I can create a nock travel tester out of it. He then explains what it needs to do.

He also said that once I get it done and test a bunch of bows that I will be surprised by how bad some bows are and how good others are.

I hear apple has a commercial one but I haven't seen it.

:noidea: How'd I learn about this. It just so happens that one day this guy walks into my shop. He introduces himself as one of the big cheeses at Mathews. His wife had a class reunion in town. They were getting gas next door and he noticed the Mathews sign and came over.

We were chatting about bows and testing, etc. He noticed my draw jig that I use to check cam timing and he mentioned that with a bit of modification I can create a nock travel tester out of it. He then explains what it needs to do.

He also said that once I get it done and test a bunch of bows that I will be surprised by how bad some bows are and how good others are.

I hear apple has a commercial one but I haven't seen it.

Does this have anything ta do with tha placement of tha string nock or tha correcteness of tha arrow nock on tha arrow.
:noidea:

I read it wrong to. You want to check nock travel through the draw cycle.

Buy the way that was what I was talking about with my Bladerunner. It has not nock travel. It stay center through the draw cycle.

so does any of this matter w/a DROP AWAY???:noidea:

It has to do with the travel of the nock up or down when you draw you bow. As far as I know a Bladerunner is the only bow on the market that has a true center shot or nock travel bow.

Ok say you put a rest on your bow perfect. With all kinds of rulers and mics. It is perfect to your nock on your string. With out shooting it. Will it be right? No, because of the nock travel. Your nock as you draw goes up or down alittle.

Is this what you are talking about Chris?

I just got you answer I jus PMed you I will be here until 11:00pm Ga time

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=433195&highlight=travel If you do a search in the tuning section for travel, oldbuck has a few threads on it.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=433195&highlight=travel If you do a search in the tuning section for travel, oldbuck has a few threads on it.

Look who just amde senior member Keep em comin' Big Guy

:noidea:

Does this have anything ta do with tha placement of tha string nock or tha correcteness of tha arrow nock on tha arrow.
:noidea:

Yes, where you put your brass nock or loop will have an effect on the nock travel of certain bows.

Are you good with building scales? You can use a draw board like the one in this thread. That way the nock will pull straight. You put a pointer on the pin the the handle of the bow rest in. But it will have to pivot free so bearings would be great. So as you crank the nock back just read the pointer on the scale at the handle. It will show the nock travel because the nock being fixed and not being aloud to move up or down so the riser will pivot.

Look who just amde senior member Keep em comin' Big Guy

Well, how 'bout that.

Yes, where you put your brass nock or loop will have an effect on the nock travel of certain bows.

From what I have been told it will effect all bows. Some more then others.

Is that a homebe made arrow shaft cutter?
Can I get another pic of that?

Is that a homebe made arrow shaft cutter?
Can I get another pic of that?

I was checking that out myself. Pretty nice.
Where did you get the motor ?

Ron

Some companys dont want level nock travel, they say the bows shoot better with some downward nock travel.

I had a single cam bow that had horrible nock travel but it shot fixed blade broad heads and field tips right together and it shot great groups :noidea:

IMO nock travel is over rated, its just something more to worry about.

It has to do with the travel of the nock up or down when you draw you bow. As far as I know a Bladerunner is the only bow on the market that has a true center shot or nock travel bow.

I thought STORM archery did as well. thats why they have 2 different length limbs :noidea:

im thinking of going to our local recycle depot.
Could be some sort of a fan motor, or a dryer motor (clothing)
and ripping some parts out of things... As for the case its in. Just get some PVC fittings and cut them to shape. Then screw it all down on a peice of angle Iron. Then cut a sliding bar and screw a meter stick onto the side.
I was also thinking of making my own version of this bowvise?
but was wondering how will this will work with parallel limbs?

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/shop/images/APPLE-SUPER%20EMODEL.jpg

The motor is from a sewing machine, I don't know how many rpm's but it zips right through carbon arrows nice and cleanly. :cool: As for the nock travel jig, I realize the bow riser pivots around the grip, but I am reluctant to keep the riser locked down and draw the bow, I don't know if it will stress the riser in any way. :noidea: when I get some time in the winter I will play around with again. For now my bow shoots good and I am not sure how I would change the nock travel anyway. :noidea:

That is the scariest thing I have ever seen. I would enclose it in plexi-glass or something.

Joe_P

Ok, I see the flaw in your jig.

The bow must be mounted so the riser can't pivot at the grip. This is really important. The second problem is that your board needs to be longer. You do not want the crank to give false results by pulling up or down on the string. By having a longer board it will be less likely to influence the draw and pen location.

It looks like your board has a slot in it that forces the location of the string to jig attachement. This must be free floating.

I've never even heard of a thing like this but...Wouldn't the cable on this also shift as the cable winds on the roller. Like a screw

So what have you figured out to date just curious :wave: