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  1. #1

    Default paper tune yes/no

    hey all. This year Iv'e changed over to Trouphy taker spring steel rest. Is paper tuning really the best way to get the best arrow flight . Or is it kind of like stabilizer adjustment, look for a forty to fifty yard shot, with the least amount of wobble, and that seems to work pretty good. I have seen many guys who have very good form shoot a perfect hole thru paper. Some really good shooters have told me that you want a slightly high tear. Looking for some input on what I might try. thanks watt
    Last edited by watt spurlock; 03-24-2008 at 09:59 AM.

  2. #2
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    When I paper tune I shoot for little or no tear. Some say 1/4" low left for right handers is prefered. Assuming the tiller, nock and draw length are set properly, I would adjust center shot and square the arrow with the string. I start at 4 to six feet from the paper and tune until I get 8 or 10 near perfect tears in a row. I then move back to 5 or 6 yards. If needed I make adjustments and then move to 8 or 9 yards. At this distance the arrow is about as squirly as its going to get and I finish my paper tune if needed at this distance. There are other sound methods of tuning. Hopefully someone else who uses these other methods will leave feedback for you. I enjoy tinkering with my bow so paper tuning has become another way I get to obsess about archery. Getting the perfect tear is fun for me. I hope you enjoy chasing it too.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Brown Hornet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.Blay View Post
    When I paper tune I shoot for little or no tear. Some say 1/4" low left for right handers is prefered. Assuming the tiller, nock and draw length are set properly, I would adjust center shot and square the arrow with the string. I start at 4 to six feet from the paper and tune until I get 8 or 10 near perfect tears in a row. I then move back to 5 or 6 yards. If needed I make adjustments and then move to 8 or 9 yards. At this distance the arrow is about as squirly as its going to get and I finish my paper tune if needed at this distance. There are other sound methods of tuning. Hopefully someone else who uses these other methods will leave feedback for you. I enjoy tinkering with my bow so paper tuning has become another way I get to obsess about archery. Getting the perfect tear is fun for me. I hope you enjoy chasing it too.
    I think you mean high/left not low/left tear

    But I set a bow up so that my arrow is just a bit above 90...then I may or may not shoot one through paper just to make sure that I don't have something whacky going on. Then I just go shoot. I can usually see anything wierd in my flight,.....but I usually just get good arrow flight by eye balling everything then make sure all my arrows are grouping together then group tune...and creep tune etc.

    Paper is not an end all be all...there are just to many factors that can go into a bad tear...and a bullet hole tear doesn't always result in the best groups

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    Yah, that's it, high left. Thanks for the save, brown hornet.

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    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown Hornet View Post
    I think you mean high/left not low/left tear

    But I set a bow up so that my arrow is just a bit above 90...then I may or may not shoot one through paper just to make sure that I don't have something whacky going on. Then I just go shoot. I can usually see anything wierd in my flight,.....but I usually just get good arrow flight by eye balling everything then make sure all my arrows are grouping together then group tune...and creep tune etc.

    Paper is not an end all be all...there are just to many factors that can go into a bad tear...and a bullet hole tear doesn't always result in the best groups
    YUP, what he said
    I cut things up and split them down!

  6. #6

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    For target bow, walkback tune is more important than papertune.
    Just my opinion.
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  7. #7
    Evil Genius brokenarrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris View Post
    For target bow, walkback tune is more important than papertune.
    Just my opinion.
    Ya beat me to it...
    I agree Walkback is more important paper, Paper tuning is still a great starting point


  8. #8
    Senior Member Brown Hornet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris View Post
    For target bow, walkback tune is more important than papertune.
    Just my opinion.
    Unless your axis is off....then it will be a cluster waiting to happen. I prefer to get the arrows coming out straight and then group tune.

    I have found that unless you have NO CLUE how to set center shot you can get better and or faster results by eye balling it and then group tuning. The reason being is just because you are hitting in a straight line at all distances (which you can't do if your axis is off which will make people think that they need to adjust their rest) doesn't mean that you are going to be in the spot with your rest to give YOU the best groups.

    Just about all bow companies state in their manual or on their website where the center shot starting point is....I have seen many a people have a good tear in paper and then WB tune and screw everything all up...why because their sight was off

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown Hornet View Post
    Unless your axis is off....then it will be a cluster waiting to happen. I prefer to get the arrows coming out straight and then group tune.

    I have found that unless you have NO CLUE how to set center shot you can get better and or faster results by eye balling it and then group tuning. The reason being is just because you are hitting in a straight line at all distances (which you can't do if your axis is off which will make people think that they need to adjust their rest) doesn't mean that you are going to be in the spot with your rest to give YOU the best groups.

    Just about all bow companies state in their manual or on their website where the center shot starting point is....I have seen many a people have a good tear in paper and then WB tune and screw everything all up...why because their sight was off
    Your right, if the axis on your sight it not correct, your wasting your time WB tuning. However, if they are set correctly, it usually proves to be very helpful at getting your bow setup quickly and accurately.
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  10. #10
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    SO GUYS, I have a question, how about someone posts a link or writes up a discription of how too set all AXIS on your sights....
    I cut things up and split them down!

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    Ninja Fighting Fool trussoni's Avatar
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    totally clueless on that one i would like to know how though.

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    Senior Member Brown Hornet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUNNYMAN View Post
    SO GUYS, I have a question, how about someone posts a link or writes up a discription of how too set all AXIS on your sights....
    Buy a sight leveler...or borrow one from a buddy. Put your sight on it....make the bubbles level out on the sight and the leveler...with the sight level...all the way up and all the way down...

    There is a little more to it then that but that is the basic run down....With a little coaxing I may be swayed to take my sight apart and take pics of the process...but it won't be this week or next as I have a shoot this weekend and next.

  13. #13
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown Hornet View Post
    Buy a sight leveler...or borrow one from a buddy. Put your sight on it....make the bubbles level out on the sight and the leveler...with the sight level...all the way up and all the way down...

    There is a little more to it then that but that is the basic run down....With a little coaxing I may be swayed to take my sight apart and take pics of the process...but it won't be this week or next as I have a shoot this weekend and next.
    so what are we talking like a big hug the next time i see you or is it gonna take like a kiss or something

    come on you know you want to....

    I was thinking of getting the one from Britesite, is it the best one??

    I believe that Sword does this at the factory if i am not mistaken.....

    do you think they take the care that you would at home??

    not trying to start anything, just wondering, as i have a Sword on order right now.....that should be here today maybe
    I cut things up and split them down!

  14. #14
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    and also after setting the 1st and second axis on the leveler, dont you still have to do the 3rd "the hard way"
    I cut things up and split them down!

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    Senior Member Brown Hornet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUNNYMAN View Post
    so what are we talking like a big hug the next time i see you or is it gonna take like a kiss or something

    come on you know you want to....

    I was thinking of getting the one from Britesite, is it the best one??

    I believe that Sword does this at the factory if i am not mistaken.....

    do you think they take the care that you would at home??

    not trying to start anything, just wondering, as i have a Sword on order right now.....that should be here today maybe
    I love the Brite Site one...used it for years.

    Davis makes one that doesn't come with the same base as the one Brite Site makes and it is cheaper...but you have to clamp it to something. IMHO the Brite Site one is the best for this unless you are going to drop major coin.

    If Sword does it at the factory that is fine but if you have to loosen or move something....plus I usually take mine apart..all the way and lock tight them down.

    To answer you last question....you can do it all at one time...it really is one process..

  16. #16
    Ninja Fighting Fool trussoni's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown Hornet View Post
    I love the Brite Site one...used it for years.

    Davis makes one that doesn't come with the same base as the one Brite Site makes and it is cheaper...but you have to clamp it to something. IMHO the Brite Site one is the best for this unless you are going to drop major coin.

    If Sword does it at the factory that is fine but if you have to loosen or move something....plus I usually take mine apart..all the way and lock tight them down.

    To answer you last question....you can do it all at one time...it really is one process..
    Money is no object for bunny he is independantly wealthy. I know because I read it in the Enquirer.

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  17. #17
    Senior Member Brown Hornet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trussoni View Post
    Money is no object for bunny he is independantly wealthy. I know because I read it in the Enquirer.
    Well in that case buy me another sight and I will get to taken pics when I set it up

  18. #18
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trussoni View Post
    Money is no object for bunny he is independantly wealthy. I know because I read it in the Enquirer.
    I cut things up and split them down!

  19. #19
    BOWNUTS jdawg240's Avatar
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    I always paper tune. But its the way I was taught 15 years ago. Its all I ever do and after paper tuneing I have great arrow flight!
    I never miss, my arrows always hit something
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    Senior Member Brown Hornet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdawg240 View Post
    I always paper tune. But its the way I was taught 15 years ago. Its all I ever do and after paper tuneing I have great arrow flight!
    You may get good arrow flight....but are you getting the best groups and forgiveness you could possibly be getting.....

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