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  1. #1
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Default Looking for Target/Spot forum...

    Hi All,

    I'm looking to get into spot shooting and I was looking for a target shooting forum, but I just can't find one. Any ideas of good ones out there? I'll still be on this site 24/7, I love all you guys/gals, you've all helped me out tremendously in regards to 3D and general archery, but I would love to get some knowledge on how to be a better target shooter, along with more detailed info on equipment/form. So, if any of you know of any great target shooting sites...I'd really appreciate it.

    Thanks!

    -Joe
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Werd's Avatar
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    www.3dshoots.com can't help ya there
    "I have a passion for whitetail deer, not a passion for killing them. The fact that I deer hunt does not make me their enemy, but their guardian."
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  3. #3
    Slippy for President Hook Em's Avatar
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    We have several good spot shooters on this forum as well (not including myself) that you could learn a lot from. Even the Bunny is quite a spot shooter, but don't tell him I said that.
    Hook 'Em Horns

  4. #4
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    What do you need to know. Spots is the main thing I am doing right now
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  5. #5
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Thanks for the support guys! I didn't realize we had spots on this site!

    What I'm looking for is a few things about equipment I guess.

    I will be buying a Mathews Apex 7, set at 55lbs on the dot, with a 28"dl;

    1) I am going to get some CXL-S arrows...but which one? 250's?

    2) What grain tip for spots? 200? 250? higher!?

    3) I tried one of those skinny little lizard tounges...and couldnt keep the arrow on it, so I think I'm going to throw the Mathews fall-away on...is that okay? Is it still super accurate?

    4) With a sure-loc challenger/supreme...and the Viper 4X scope...when I shoot 3D...how do I be accurate at the various distances? Do I just mark down on a piece of paper what height I'm at on the verticle section of the sureloc, and then move the micro adjustment to that appropriate spot for each different target? Or do 3D shooters just get multiple pins?

    5) Where are all the target shoots? All I can find are 3D shoots...do I become a member of the MSAA? (Minnesota State Archers Association) in order to be in real shoots?

    6) What is the best way to shoot spots: Have pin above X and bring down, bring up, or start right on it and let pin float? I currently start above and let it drop, because it eliminates the left and right pin movement, but it is hard for vertical accuracy. I was told by a Minnesota state champion once to do it that way, and it works well, but just wanted to see if everyone else was doing that.

    7) Need a stabilizer...going between an Aluminum Doinker 24" (4oz...) or a Posten 18" Stabilizer. I have a Posten 24"...but the thing weighs a TON in my opinion, so I need something lighter...so if I go Posten again, I need to go shorter...will it still work as well, if not better than a 4oz Doinker?

    If those could get answered for me...I'd really appreciate it. Thanks
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  6. #6
    pragmatic_lee
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    PLEASE note, that some of the information I am about to provide is based on personal "preference".

    See comments inline

    Quote Originally Posted by swintj1 View Post
    Thanks for the support guys! I didn't realize we had spots on this site!

    What I'm looking for is a few things about equipment I guess.

    I will be buying a Mathews Apex 7, set at 55lbs on the dot, with a 28"dl;

    1) I am going to get some CXL-S arrows...but which one? 250's?

    If you are going to be shooting either FITA or Field, look closely at skinny arrows (Easton ACC series).

    2) What grain tip for spots? 200? 250? higher!?

    I'd use some form of "arrow spec" software to find the right weight tip to match the arrow you decide on (Ontarget2)


    3) I tried one of those skinny little lizard tounges...and couldnt keep the arrow on it, so I think I'm going to throw the Mathews fall-away on...is that okay? Is it still super accurate?

    I'd been using a QAD drop away for several months and just replaced it on Sat. with a "skinny little lizard tongue" (Pro-Tuner). I spent nearly all day Sat. working on my draw to try and find the right "form" to keep the arrow on. I consider that time well spent. There's just too many mechanical/moving parts in a drop away for my "mental well being" - when shooting 112 arrows on a Field range.


    4) With a sure-loc challenger/supreme...and the Viper 4X scope...when I shoot 3D...how do I be accurate at the various distances? Do I just mark down on a piece of paper what height I'm at on the verticle section of the sureloc, and then move the micro adjustment to that appropriate spot for each different target? Or do 3D shooters just get multiple pins?

    Good selection of both sight & scope. I use a Sure-Loc Challenger with a 4x Viper scope. In addition I used a "tiny" peep (aids in focus). The 1 3/4" scope housing is good "IF" you peep is big enough to allow you to see the bubble in the scope. Trust me, the bubble is "your friend" when shooting outdoors. Don't expect to find nice level footing. AND BE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT YOUR 3RD AXIS IS SET BEFORE GOING ON THE COURSE. I've got into several "arguments" with my scope level when I "thought" I was holding the bow vertical, but in all cases (when the 3rd axis was properly set), I should have "listened" to the bubble!

    As far as your "marks" - again - some good archery software will assist you in getting marks for all the distances. Example: Using the graduated scale on the Sure-Loc, find the correct mark for a distance such at 20 yds. - then find the correct mark for a longer distance such as 60 yds. Once you have these 2 marks, plug them in, along with VALID DATA on your bow, arrow, and all other components. The software will provide you with "suggested" marks for all distances. I have my OT2 set to provide marks from 20 "FEET" to 100 "YARDS". Remember this are "starting point"; however, for the most part I have found that OT2 can produce better marks than I can manually generate.


    5) Where are all the target shoots? All I can find are 3D shoots...do I become a member of the MSAA? (Minnesota State Archers Association) in order to be in real shoots?

    Can't help you much with whats available in MN, but Field archery, through out the country, is experiencing a major "come back". Don't know if it's appropriate to talk about the Archery Talk forum here, but there "is" a sub-forum over there that is dedicated to Field archery (which includes indoor Vegas & 5 spot shooting).

    6) What is the best way to shoot spots: Have pin above X and bring down, bring up, or start right on it and let pin float? I currently start above and let it drop, because it eliminates the left and right pin movement, but it is hard for vertical accuracy. I was told by a Minnesota state champion once to do it that way, and it works well, but just wanted to see if everyone else was doing that.

    A lot of this will depend on the "draw form" you develop, but a general rule is to come from the top down. Also, once you begin to "hold" on the X, if you find that you tend to "jerk" off the spot, let down and adjust your footing - this will take lots of practice, but is worth the effort.

    7) Need a stabilizer...going between an Aluminum Doinker 24" (4oz...) or a Posten 18" Stabilizer. I have a Posten 24"...but the thing weighs a TON in my opinion, so I need something lighter...so if I go Posten again, I need to go shorter...will it still work as well, if not better than a 4oz Doinker?

    I recently changed from a 24" Posten to a 34" Doinker Carbon Elite. The change has "drastically" improved my score. But there is a reason there are many different stabilizer designs/makers, lengths, and weights - you'll just have to find the right combination that works for you. Hopefully you will be like I was and have shooting buddies that have accumulated lots of stabs over the years and will be willing to allow you to try different setups. I was also using a set of rear v-bars, but found (in my case) that I needed more weight up front and just a very small offset weight in the back.

    If those could get answered for me...I'd really appreciate it. Thanks
    Well, I hope my ramblings have provided a little bit of in-sight. But let me provide one other piece of advice, spot shooting (Vegas, 5 spot, Field, FITA, etc.) is extremely addicting!

  7. #7
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    1. the 250's should be good for you. I used to shoot the origioinal CXL 250's at 62lbs. They flew great.

    2. 200 or 250 would be over kill on these arrows. if you want to shoot that heavy of point you would need to shoot the 350's. a 125 grain glue in point on theses arrows is going to put you in the 12% FOC range.

    3. look to see if you can find a wider mouthed lizard tongue. several retailers have different sizes of tongues in both thickness, heavier vs lighter arrow, and in the mouth.

    4. you can shoot the distances and then make a ledger, this is what i do. But many us one of the computer programs to generate a yardage scale that attaches to the sight. with these you need a few measurements and you are ready to shoot.

    5. never hurts to belong to the state orgs. you will find out about more shoots. Archery talk also has a regional shoot section. during the right time of the year the spot shoots are posted there as well.

    6. personal prefference. you have to figure this out for youeself. develope your own routine and stick with it. practice or tourney

    7. also a personal prefference. but if you get rid of the 24" posten let me know

    Marc

  8. #8
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Default

    Any suggestion on a great SPOT/3D rest? Pics of them? I am going to try to go buy the bow and the whole set-up tonight...so I'd love to hear back soon.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    The Mathews rest can be either a fall away or a fixed rest...would the Mathews on the "fixed" mode be as good as any?
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  10. #10
    Movin on up!!! bullfiddle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swintj1 View Post
    Any suggestion on a great SPOT/3D rest? Pics of them? I am going to try to go buy the bow and the whole set-up tonight...so I'd love to hear back soon.
    Learn to shoot a spring steel rest... It's simple and very accurate...
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  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by bullfiddle View Post
    Learn to shoot a spring steel rest... It's simple and very accurate...
    x2 The spring steel is what most of the top shooters are using.

    The Pro Tuner is an example but there are a couple less expensive ones out there
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  12. #12
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Which is better the Trophy Taker Spring Steal 1 or 2? The two looks better because of more support on the actual rest. Is this correct?
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  13. #13
    Movin on up!!! bullfiddle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swintj1 View Post
    Which is better the Trophy Taker Spring Steal 1 or 2? The two looks better because of more support on the actual rest. Is this correct?
    I have a trophy taker 2 hole rest that is the long bar I would make you a heck of a deal on. It's like brand new it just doesn't fit the bow I was gonna put it on....
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  14. #14
    Slippy for President Hook Em's Avatar
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    I have a lizard tongue rest that I was going to put on my target bow, but I know my feathers would contact the cables on the way by. Does it not matter that much since they are feathers? I would still rather not have anything touch the arrow while it is on its way to another FOUR
    Hook 'Em Horns

  15. #15
    Movin on up!!! bullfiddle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hook Em View Post
    I have a lizard tongue rest that I was going to put on my target bow, but I know my feathers would contact the cables on the way by. Does it not matter that much since they are feathers? I would still rather not have anything touch the arrow while it is on its way to another FOUR
    You lost me Hook... What does a lizzard tongue rest have to do with your fletching hitting the cables? Just sayin....
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