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  1. #1
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Default Right arrows for my set-up...

    Hi All,

    I was wondering if any of you could use your software to run the numbers on these arrows and see if these will be great for my set-up.

    Easton X7 Colbalts 2613's
    Full length (34")
    220 grain tips

    My set-up is
    Apex 7
    28"DL
    55lbs

    I will be using these arrows for spot shooting...so speed isn't an issue. Can you plug that into your software and tell me what you come up with? If the 220 grain tips aren't the right size...what does the software tell you is?

    Thanks!
    ____________________________________________
    2010 Mathews Monster 7
    2009 PSE X-Force GX
    2008 Mathews Apex 7
    2007 Hoyt Vectrix

  2. #2
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Default

    No one is going to help me out on this one? C'mon guys/gals.

    Someone has to have that software and can tell me a great arrow for Spots/3D and what length/weights to have them at...
    ____________________________________________
    2010 Mathews Monster 7
    2009 PSE X-Force GX
    2008 Mathews Apex 7
    2007 Hoyt Vectrix

  3. #3
    Senior Member tnts79's Avatar
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    Default

    No one has any idea, aluminum arrows with 220 grain tips??? Your on your own with that!
    Hoyt Trykon-390 gr.@280fps.
    Truglo Tool-less / 5-.019" pins
    WB/Double STS/S-Coil Stab./CSS Tunerz
    5575 GT XT Hunters/G5 Tekan-II/Tru-Ball Copperhead

  4. #4
    ONE SHOT ONE KILL TEN RING's Avatar
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    Default

    The only thing that I shoot that has a 220 grain tip is my muzzle loader

  5. #5
    Senior Member tnts79's Avatar
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    Default

    260 here in my .50!......
    Hoyt Trykon-390 gr.@280fps.
    Truglo Tool-less / 5-.019" pins
    WB/Double STS/S-Coil Stab./CSS Tunerz
    5575 GT XT Hunters/G5 Tekan-II/Tru-Ball Copperhead

  6. #6
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Default

    If I'm way off...then what would be better?

    1. For a bow that does spots and 3D...should I still cut the arrow as short as possible, or leave it longer for stability?

    2. Would the Easton Colbalts be a good arrow, and then just get the right one for a 29" arrow with a 100gr tip? I think they are 2412's?

    3. Can someone figure out the right arrow for me with a 29" arrow, 100 gr tip with my set up? 55lbs, 28" DL...Apex Cam
    ____________________________________________
    2010 Mathews Monster 7
    2009 PSE X-Force GX
    2008 Mathews Apex 7
    2007 Hoyt Vectrix

  7. #7
    Senior Member beenfarr's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by swintj1 View Post
    If I'm way off...then what would be better?

    1. For a bow that does spots and 3D...should I still cut the arrow as short as possible, or leave it longer for stability?

    2. Would the Easton Colbalts be a good arrow, and then just get the right one for a 29" arrow with a 100gr tip? I think they are 2412's?

    3. Can someone figure out the right arrow for me with a 29" arrow, 100 gr tip with my set up? 55lbs, 28" DL...Apex Cam
    I use full length easton cobalt arrows for spots, with a 270 gr. tip. They fly great, but real slow at 50 lbs, 27.5 " draw!!!
    Sling Braid Custom Bow Slings!!!

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  8. #8
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beenfarr View Post
    I use full length easton cobalt arrows for spots, with a 270 gr. tip. They fly great, but real slow at 50 lbs, 27.5 " draw!!!
    So you do actually use a tip over 125gr...I was getting worried that no one does...but I thought that all target archers shot somewhere between 200-300 gr tips.

    So you really like them though? What size of Cobalt did you go with? 2612? What arrow do you think would be best for my bow for spots?
    ____________________________________________
    2010 Mathews Monster 7
    2009 PSE X-Force GX
    2008 Mathews Apex 7
    2007 Hoyt Vectrix

  9. #9
    Senior Member beenfarr's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by swintj1 View Post
    So you do actually use a tip over 125gr...I was getting worried that no one does...but I thought that all target archers shot somewhere between 200-300 gr tips.

    So you really like them though? What size of Cobalt did you go with? 2612? What arrow do you think would be best for my bow for spots?
    PM Sent.
    Sling Braid Custom Bow Slings!!!

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  10. #10
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    Default

    I'm no expert with OnTarget (just got it), but it says it's a little stiff with a FOC at 15.41% and will be slowwww. Maybe someone with more experience with the program will chime in.

  11. #11
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    I tell you 2513 with 230 grain tips. In spots it is heavy and slow. They arrow will stabilizer very fast. Full do not cut them. I shoot 2613 uncut total weight close to or just over 500 grains at 27.5 and 50# for spots.
    I put this in print for all to see. You can trust me on spots.
    Quick Stand Archery Patent Pending
    Home of the Quick Stand Compound Bow Stand
    An proud member of the FBSA
    message of the week . . . . Well I will never be all right, Because I am half left. lol

  12. #12
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    Default

    I will be very intersted to see where this goes, as I am considering using Alluminums, this coming indoor season.....

    I also would think you would need over 200 grains in thetip, to get them to fly straight......

  13. #13
    Senior Member beenfarr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUNNYMAN View Post
    I will be very intersted to see where this goes, as I am considering using Alluminums, this coming indoor season.....

    I also would think you would need over 200 grains in thetip, to get them to fly straight......
    Here's a PM Conversation I had with Nuts and Bolts on AT

    Me-

    I am about jump into indoor spot shooting, and am not really sure about arrow set-up. If you have the time could you please help me out some questions?

    1- I have ON target software, and a lot of people are telling me to go with an X7 shaft from Easton. Should I leave them full length, and add point weight to get them to spine well? What's the best approach on shaft length?

    2- I hear a lot of people talking about Nibbs, I did some research and found they sell them in %, like 8%. I'm confused. 8% of what??? It seems like a system that I could add or delete weight would be ideal. But I'm not sure. Any wise words for front of center, and arrow weight???

    Any advice you could give, even stuff you can think of that I should know, would be very helpful. I'd hate buy anything I couldn't use.

    Thanks,
    Ben

    Him-
    The 8% is 8% FOC (Front of Center) balance.

    Some folks shoot fat aluminum shafts for indoors.
    Some folks shoot fat carbon shafts.

    Some folks swear by the largest feathers than can fletch onto the shaft.

    Some folks really like the large Quickspin vanes.

    Nearly everyone that shoots spots is shooting
    low draw weight, like below 50 lbs.


    So,
    you can do the "properly spined" aluminum or carbon shaft.

    Or,
    you can go the off the charts stiff aluminum or carbon shaft.


    Both work,
    but will require different bow tuning.


    If you want the full length aluminum shaft,
    then you can get a "proper spine" with less tip weight.

    I would go to http://www.competitionarcheryproducts.com/ and get their custom sized solid bullet points. Very high quality, and available in all kinds of weights
    for the most popular sizes for indoor shooting.


    If you believe in "nodes",
    then you will want to cut the arrow shaft shorter than full length, and will require the really heavy solid target points.


    If you go with aluminum,
    it is very easy to heat the end of the point,
    and try a different point weight.

    So, try the Easton 2613
    or the Easton 2512 shafts full length.

    Use OnTarget2! to figure out what point weight
    you need to order from www.competitionarcheryproducts.com.

    See how well you group.

    Experiment with cam timing,
    and experiment with nock point elevation (slightly up or down), and record your results.

    Experiment with slightly more or less draw weight.

    Then,
    take 3 shafts,
    and remove the points,
    and cut off 1/4-inch from the end of the shaft,
    and re-install the same points.

    Retune your bow.
    Experiment with nock point
    and cam timing
    and draw weight,
    and see if your best groups are with the full length shafts,
    or
    with the slightly shorter shafts.


    No matter how good you become with OnTarget2!,
    it still requires experimentation.
    Sling Braid Custom Bow Slings!!!

    FBSA Member

  14. #14
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beenfarr View Post
    Here's a PM Conversation I had with Nuts and Bolts on AT

    Me-

    I am about jump into indoor spot shooting, and am not really sure about arrow set-up. If you have the time could you please help me out some questions?

    1- I have ON target software, and a lot of people are telling me to go with an X7 shaft from Easton. Should I leave them full length, and add point weight to get them to spine well? What's the best approach on shaft length?

    2- I hear a lot of people talking about Nibbs, I did some research and found they sell them in %, like 8%. I'm confused. 8% of what??? It seems like a system that I could add or delete weight would be ideal. But I'm not sure. Any wise words for front of center, and arrow weight???

    Any advice you could give, even stuff you can think of that I should know, would be very helpful. I'd hate buy anything I couldn't use.

    Thanks,
    Ben

    Him-
    The 8% is 8% FOC (Front of Center) balance.

    Some folks shoot fat aluminum shafts for indoors.
    Some folks shoot fat carbon shafts.

    Some folks swear by the largest feathers than can fletch onto the shaft.

    Some folks really like the large Quickspin vanes.

    Nearly everyone that shoots spots is shooting
    low draw weight, like below 50 lbs.


    So,
    you can do the "properly spined" aluminum or carbon shaft.

    Or,
    you can go the off the charts stiff aluminum or carbon shaft.


    Both work,
    but will require different bow tuning.


    If you want the full length aluminum shaft,
    then you can get a "proper spine" with less tip weight.

    I would go to http://www.competitionarcheryproducts.com/ and get their custom sized solid bullet points. Very high quality, and available in all kinds of weights
    for the most popular sizes for indoor shooting.


    If you believe in "nodes",
    then you will want to cut the arrow shaft shorter than full length, and will require the really heavy solid target points.


    If you go with aluminum,
    it is very easy to heat the end of the point,
    and try a different point weight.

    So, try the Easton 2613
    or the Easton 2512 shafts full length.

    Use OnTarget2! to figure out what point weight
    you need to order from www.competitionarcheryproducts.com.

    See how well you group.

    Experiment with cam timing,
    and experiment with nock point elevation (slightly up or down), and record your results.

    Experiment with slightly more or less draw weight.

    Then,
    take 3 shafts,
    and remove the points,
    and cut off 1/4-inch from the end of the shaft,
    and re-install the same points.

    Retune your bow.
    Experiment with nock point
    and cam timing
    and draw weight,
    and see if your best groups are with the full length shafts,
    or
    with the slightly shorter shafts.


    No matter how good you become with OnTarget2!,
    it still requires experimentation.

    thanks bud!

  15. #15
    Senior Member beenfarr's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BUNNYMAN View Post
    thanks bud!
    I ended up going with the Cobalt 2512's full length, with 270 grain tips and 4" feathers. Then I shot spots one time and haven't looked at the bow since! That was about a year ago. There was weird format were you shot half 5 spot and half 3 spot. I shot a 148 out of 150 on the five spot, and I think I dropped about 9 points on the 3 spot. Just didn't find spots too exciting. But I got a sweet Chrome '06 commander with an Axcel 3000 sight, full posten set up and a dozen arrows all set up chilling in an aroura case if I ever decide to shoot it again.

    Ben
    Sling Braid Custom Bow Slings!!!

    FBSA Member

  16. #16
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    Default

    Personally, I would ditch the idea of those fragile, thin walled Colbalts. Thin Aluminum gets little bends in them too easy, and dinged real easy too. They get crooked just sitting in a quiver.
    If you are shooting spots, go with a X Cutter or some other carbon shaft. They are much more durable.

  17. #17
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    Default

    I shot indoor spots about 5 years ago and used my hunting bow( shot fingers then) and my hunting arrows(31" draw length, 65lbs ) with 125grn field points without much difficulty. I shot in the 260's to 270's. If you are just trying not to get rusty in the off season why change your setup?

  18. #18
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butch32 View Post
    I shot indoor spots about 5 years ago and used my hunting bow( shot fingers then) and my hunting arrows(31" draw length, 65lbs ) with 125grn field points without much difficulty. I shot in the 260's to 270's. If you are just trying not to get rusty in the off season why change your setup?
    he is not trying to keep from getting rusty, he is getting a new bow, and setting it up for the first time......

  19. #19
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    Cobalts are the winningest arrow out there for 3 or 5 spot.
    Quick Stand Archery Patent Pending
    Home of the Quick Stand Compound Bow Stand
    An proud member of the FBSA
    message of the week . . . . Well I will never be all right, Because I am half left. lol

  20. #20
    Senior Member swintj1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUNNYMAN View Post
    he is not trying to keep from getting rusty, he is getting a new bow, and setting it up for the first time......
    Correct Bunnyman...I enjoy 3D shoots, but it isn't my favorite thing. I just enjoy going in the backyard and shooting at my block, so I thought, "Why not take it one step farther since I just enjoy shooting? I'll get a target bow and try to be the best I can be"

    So, I will still do 3D, but I will focus primarily on spots. That will help me with my form, which should translate to being a better hunter/3D shooter when I decide to do that too.

    I think I'm all set-up as of today. Here is the set-up:

    2008 Mathews Apex 7
    52#, 28"dl
    Sureloc Supreme w/ 9" bar
    Viper 6X scope with .019 up-pin
    Superpeep with #2 clarifier
    Easton 2512 X7 Eclipse w/ 4" Quickspin
    200 grain tips
    Posten 24" stabilizer

    I want to say thanks to all of you who have helped me figure out the set-up I wanted, say thanks to Chris at Obsession Archery for the products I ordered up today, and I'll keep you all posted when the bow comes in and I have it all set-up. Stay tuned for pics!

    -Joe
    ____________________________________________
    2010 Mathews Monster 7
    2009 PSE X-Force GX
    2008 Mathews Apex 7
    2007 Hoyt Vectrix

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