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  1. #1
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    Default Arrow fletching for novice

    1. First clean the end of the shaft with a good cleaner. I use Acetone. It cleans and dries fast.

    Here is a good view of a straight and right hand helix clamp.
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  2. #2
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    2. This is a grayling jig. You adjust the offset by loosening the 2 knobs and set the offset. Then tighten down the knobs.
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  3. #3
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    3. On my jig it has a shaft indexer. So set it to the shaft size, Insert the split in the nock with the nock and fletching indexer.
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  4. #4
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    On the side of the Grayling clamps there is a scale. Pick how far down you want your vanes and use that make on all 3 vanes.

    4. Slip the vane all the way into the clamp to the gluing flange.
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  5. #5
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    5. I use goat tuff glue. I dab a few drops down the vane.
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  6. #6
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    6. Then use the edge of the bottle to spread the glue even. When doing it this way it takes very little glue. A little goes a long way.
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  7. #7
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    Here is a link to a question thread if you have any. I will be more then happy to help.
    http://www.3dshoots.com/forums/showt...543#post185543
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  8. #8
    Buckeyes #1 <---- Slippy's Avatar
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    I wouldn't fletch with 4 inch vanes or without pants on..but you have the general technique down.

    I took a board, like a 2X8, 3 feet long and screwed in some screws to hold the stand, works like a charm.
    Prostaff of whatever DB uses.

  9. #9
    One eyed/Gutless wonder QSA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slippy View Post
    I wouldn't fletch with 4 inch vanes or without pants on..but you have the general technique down.

    I took a board, like a 2X8, 3 feet long and screwed in some screws to hold the stand, works like a charm.
    ok this is not a thread for your dumb comments slippy. I have shorts on. People want to learn that is what it is for.
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  10. #10
    RIP Ronhop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QSA View Post
    ok this is not a thread for your dumb comments slippy. I have shorts on. People want to learn that is what it is for.
    Yeah but his comment about mounting the jig to a board is good advice and makes for a more stable work platform. I used a 1x4 about 10" long (a piece of scrap laying in my workshop) and put some felt pads on the bottom to keep from scratching work surfaces.

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  11. #11
    Squealpiggy Squealpiggy's Avatar
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    Helpful post. Thanks, QSA.

  12. #12
    EastOutfitters elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip! I'm always looking for a new method to do anything.
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  13. #13
    Bad 2 the Bone Elkslayer's Avatar
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    Nice write up... I have the same jig..thou must be a older version... it does not have that arrrow index wheel. mounted mine to a board
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  14. #14

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    Thanks for the good info!

  15. #15
    Junior Member Christopher67's Avatar
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    Question

    I've seen some people take a piece of sand paper to scuff the carbon shaft before putting vanes on, is this necessary?
    Last edited by Christopher67; 04-04-2011 at 09:41 AM.

  16. #16
    Bisquit....... BowhuntnHoosier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher67 View Post
    I've seen some people take a piece of sand paper to scuff the carbon shaft before putting vanes on, is this necessary?
    I use scotch brite pads......


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  17. #17
    Junior Member Christopher67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BowhuntnHoosier View Post
    I use scotch brite pads......

    Yea thats what i meant sorry lol Its ok to do this without harming the arrow?

  18. #18
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    Do you glue in your nocks?

    Do you clean the vanes with the cleaner?
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