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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Default Changed rest and have Point of Impact Question.

    Ok I finally decided to install my fall away that Ive had laying around forever.


    I measured my prong rest before taking it off so that match the location best as possible and then tweak if from there.


    I took my first measuremnt by putting the arrow in the prong rest and measuring from the shelf to the top of the arrow with some dial calipers.

    Then did the same with my fall away.

    I took it out and shot it and It was on target just needed to dial everything in. Arrows were hitting High (4") and left (2") at 10 yards and roughly high (5") and left (2.5") at 20 yards (both yardages using the same pin). I did notice right away how much quieter the bow seems to shoot and how much more forgiving the rest is.

    When I got inside I decide to put the bow in my vise and see if everything was squared up.

    I don't have any bow tools or experience so I just used a torpedo level and good judgement. I set the bow in the vise so the string was level. The checked the height of the arrow and even though it was within .010" of the height from the old rest it wasnt level with the string so I adjust everything so the arrow was level with the string.

    I also adjusted the rest to the right a hair and theat got me within .5" to center and got the rest with adjusting the pin.

    Now my problem is I am hitting about 5" high at 10yards and 7.5" high and 1.5" left at 20 yards.


    Im guessing the centering inconsistancy can be fixed with the rest. My problem (may not be a problem) is that Im not sure what I should do about the vertical problem. It feels right to me that the arrow ahould be perpendicular to the string.

    For reference with field tips It would shoot to the same point from 10-20 yards with the same pin. Maybe a touch lower but my groupds were about 3" at 20 yards so hard to say exactly.

    Thanks for any help. I hope I didnt ramble on too much. Can't wait to get this dialed in and bust open the fobs.

    AJ

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Default

    You can paper tune for nock point/rest height or shoot a couple bare shafts and compare with fletched shafts. Don't get to far back for starters, 10-15 yards will do.
    For windage you also could do bare vs fletched, or walk-back tune, or if your going to use fixed blades to hunt, compare broadheads to fieldpoints.
    Your going for best arrow flight/groups, then adjust the pins to it.
    FBSA Member

  3. #3
    Evil Genius brokenarrow's Avatar
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    Default

    Well you're real close...

    The arrow doesn't have to be perpendicular to the string. try to move the rest down 1/8 inch and also to the right slightly maybe 1/16 that may solve it...

    This is the side of archery that will drive you insane but don't get frustrated you are definately in the ballpark.

    Good luck, Ed


  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks.

    I'll read up on paper tuning.

  5. #5
    RIP Ronhop's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brokenarrow View Post
    Well you're real close...

    The arrow doesn't have to be perpendicular to the string. try to move the rest down 1/8 inch and also to the right slightly maybe 1/16 that may solve it...

    This is the side of archery that will drive you insane but don't get frustrated you are definately in the ballpark.

    Good luck, Ed
    EXACTLY !.....

    Check out the Easton Tuning Guide on www.eastonarchery.com
    It's a very good reference and covers paper and bare shaft tuning very well.
    It's a free .pdf download.

    Ron
    Proud member of the F.B.S.A.

    Official turkey baster and member of the FBSA R-100 eating team....

  6. #6
    Junior Member
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    Default

    Thanks again for the help.


    I got her paper tuned. Now I just got to get those pins dialed in tomorrow.

    I left my release at the shop when I went in to pick up some serving string so wasnt gonna dial it in with my crappy release that I tend to miss my anchor with.

  7. #7
    never fletch again Paul Morris's Avatar
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    Default

    I have found that paper tuning does not work so well for me. I shoot Zwickey blades and find that no matter what it looks like on paper, I have to adjust for the blades. Now I just square things up by eye, make sure field tips look like they are flying good and let my broadheads tell me what to adjust. (i.e left broadhead hit move rest to right, high broadhead hit raise nock set or lower rest).

    Also with larger blades I use a slightly heavier field tip to compensate for the extra load a large blade puts on the arrow. My Zwickey's are 138 grains and use a 150 grain field tip to tune them in.

    Regards,
    Paul
    StarrFlight

  8. #8
    Senior Member Holy Smokes's Avatar
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    Default

    paper tuning is a great start
    try walk back tuning next
    take take you a string and drop it across the buls eye from top to bottom
    start at 15 yards and go back ro 30 in 5 yrd steps shooting at the spot
    if the arrows hit to the left of line move the move the rest out/left
    if to the right move the rest to the right/in

    cake



    Switchback xt BYC LOOP- SHOOT NOW56# 385gr 2312 Eclipse 100gr Muzzy 256fps SEPTER RANGER STRINGS, 4th axis,335 jammers @ 61# =285 fps

  9. #9
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Morris View Post
    I have found that paper tuning does not work so well for me. I shoot Zwickey blades and find that no matter what it looks like on paper, I have to adjust for the blades. Now I just square things up by eye, make sure field tips look like they are flying good and let my broadheads tell me what to adjust. (i.e left broadhead hit move rest to right, high broadhead hit raise nock set or lower rest).

    Also with larger blades I use a slightly heavier field tip to compensate for the extra load a large blade puts on the arrow. My Zwickey's are 138 grains and use a 150 grain field tip to tune them in.

    Regards,
    hmmm, paper tuning doesnt work well for you???

    thats funny, I wouldnt think the big circle cutouts in the paper would be hard to read......
    I cut things up and split them down!

  10. #10
    Bisquit....... BowhuntnHoosier's Avatar
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    Default

    I don't like paper tuning at all. Walk back tune is the way to go.


    "HONDA"

  11. #11
    Junior Member
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    Default

    Now that I've got the bow setup pretty good.

    I'll definitely try the walk back method to see what I look like.


    One thing I've notice is that the fobs hit lower than my fletched arrows at 15 yards (about 1"). Haven't shot them at any other distances.

    I weighed the arrows and the fobs are a touch heavier. Arrow with fob is 405 gr arrow with blazer vanes is 394gr.

    Just wondering if the 11grs makes that much of a difference. Im only pulling 46# so I guess anything could make a bigger difference than on a heavier bow. But it just seems a tad odd. Also my field points hit about an inch lower too at 15 and 25 yards. Never did that before. I was always able to shoot field points with my 10 yard pin at 20 yards and be on. Now they are a touch low. Maybe I should paper tune with my broadheads?

    Thanks


    AJ

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