Thread: Nocks breaking my arrows
10-31-2008, 12:13 PM #1
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
Nocks breaking my arrows
Hello everyone. I'm a novice archer. I am currently using a PSE DeerHunter S3 with a 55# 29" draw. I am shooting with a D-Loop and trigger release, and using Beman 500 ICS Hawk arrows (7.1 grain / inch) - with 100Gr points.
I've been noticing that I've destroyed about 4 arrows already, shooting at burlap bags filled with clothes, sometimes missing and hitting the dirt pile behind. Sometimes I've noticed that the nocks pop off but typically the back of the arrow is splintered. A few questions:
1. I am supposed to glue the nocks in? They come from the manufacturer with the nocks already quite snug in place.
2. Am I able to cut back the splintered part and still use the arrow? Can I put the nock within a few increments from the fletchings? typically it's like 1 inch away but if I remove all the splintered portions it wil lbe right behind the fletchings
3. Is something wrong? How long do arrows normally last under normal target shooting conditions? I've shot about 7 days now and have already destroyed 4 arrows.
10-31-2008, 12:23 PM #2
do not glue the nocks in place......
maybe think about getting a better arrow in the future.....
usually this happens when you hit something hard......I cut things up and split them down!
10-31-2008, 12:32 PM #3
Once a carbon shaft is compromised, it's basically junk. That's why manufacturers of carbon shafts are very clear in their instructions to check for shaft damage after each shot. I would not cut the back end off the shaft in hopes of saving it. Not only that but your arrow flight with the shorter arrows would not be the same as with the arrows that are the correct length. Also, if you go too short on an arrow shaft the point could be dangerously close to falling off the rest.
Did you make sure that the arrow length and spine is good for your bow specs, draw length and point weight ? If you have an under spined arrow you could be creating the beginning of a problem right there.
RonProud member of the F.B.S.A.
Official turkey baster and member of the FBSA R-100 eating team....
10-31-2008, 12:35 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
1) Do not glue nock into your arrows. Nocks should be replaced fairly regularly depending on how much you shoot.
2) The splintered part can be cut off, but you must do this with care. If the crack extends beyond where you can cut the shaft, you must discard the arrow. It's no fun to have an arrow explode on release, often lots of blood too. Also you need a high speed saw to cut carbon arrows. There are some home built alternates, but until you have the right tools, let a shop do it for you. If you are cutting back to the fletching, you may want to learn to refletch your arrows. It will save money in the long run. Also note that when you cut an arrow shorter, you are changing it's spine significantly. Spine is the amount that the arrow bends. One of the keys to accurate archery is matched arrows. When you cut them to different lengths, you lose this. Different length arrows won't fly to the same point of impact.
3) Yes, you are doing something wrong - you are shooting at a single spot and your skill is growing. Shoot each arrow at a different spot unless you want to make your favorite arrow manufacturer richer. Arrow can last years if you don't damage them by hitting them with another arrow or shooting into something hard.
There is a lot more to arrow building than just putting on a point, fletching and a nock. It's quite technical and I find it very interesting, but many don't.
Try to find an archery club or a good archery shop to learn this stuff. There are also a few books and videos available.
Hope this helps,
10-31-2008, 01:25 PM #5
10-31-2008, 02:45 PM #6
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
Thanks for replying to my questions so quickly! Well, first of all I recently referred to a pdf of Beman arrows, (http://www.arrowstar.be/downloads/BemanArchery2002.pdf). My arrows "should" be cut to about 28.5 (measured 1 inch beyond my arrow rest). The deer hunter is a round wheel so at 55lb to 60 lb pull, it should be the proper length. Now I say "should be" because they are currently at 30 inches, because I cut them myself thinking the arrows need to be 1 inch longer than my draw length, not past the arrow rest (I am using a shoot through prong style). So does this 1.5 inch make a huge difference to the spine? Also, how do I know what kind of "spine" his is... like is the 500 arrow more limber than a 400 arrow, meant to be shot with a higher poundbow? If it does, then I will go ahead and cut back my arrows 1.5 inches and reglue the inserts or buy replacement inserts.
11-01-2008, 12:10 PM #7
If you are new to Archery, I would say all the advice you are getting here is great. 1 thing I dident know when I started was, Shooting at the same spot on the target, the arrows slap each other at the nock end and cause the damage you are describing. I think this is what is happing.Mathews Ovation 60 lbs 29 Dl- Ranger custom Strings
HHA 5500 ol - Trophy Taker shakey hunter-
Tru Ball pro diamond- Gold Tip X-cutters= awsome shootin'
11-01-2008, 07:38 PM #8
like everyone said shoot at different points I had to learn this quickly because I got two robinhoods from 20 yards my first day.Hoyt 05 pro elite xt 3000 limbs cam and a half.
prostaff member of Moythewstech the inovater of the revolutionary singlebinary and a half cam system and the shoothroughultrathincenterpivot riser.
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