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Thread: New to 3dshoots

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    southern michigan

    Default New to 3dshoots

    hello all im new to 3d shoots, i am a member of archery talk. I dont really know if htis is the same sight or same deal. BUt i have my first post for you. I live in brooklyn michigan and im looking for someone to teach me the ropes of using a back tension release.Any info or help would be appreciated

  2. #2
    Senior Member J.C.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006


    I dont know of any coaches in Michigan but maybe somebody else will chime in.

  3. #3
    Evil Genius brokenarrow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Hudson Valley NY


    Welcome to the forum...
    I am sure some one can help you here so we'll keep you up top for a while.

  4. #4
    Senior Member duckslayer870's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    W. Kentucky


    Dont know much about it but there are several people around here that do.
    Good luck and welcome to the family
    GO TEAM 12

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    southern michigan


    let me get it back ttt

  6. #6
    Senior Member Ancient Archer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008


    I don't use a "Back Tension Release" (BTR) per se, instead I use a trigger release. A BTR is different in that it's T-shaped and is released using the thumb instead of a trigger. The back tension itself is the actual motion produced when bringing the shoulder blades together using the large Rhomboid muscles in the back when drawing the bow and when holding at draw.. In any event, today I started to use back tension to release the trigger on my release and I think the process is basically the same for a BTR. Prior to using back tension as a way of releasing the arrow, I would squeeze the trigger. This created some “anticipation” problems. I'll compare the before & after techniques that I've experienced.

    Hope this starts the explanation. Others can critique & elaborate.

    Sorry for the lengthy post, but as I mentioned above, I’m currently using a back tension approach (not a back tension release) to release the trigger. Up until now I’ve done the following:

    1. Focus on the target and never leave it visually or in concentration.
    2. Come to full draw - right up to the wall.
    3. Confirm anchor.
    4. Place trigger on trigger.
    5. Aim by continuing to focus on the target while having the pin come onto the target while maintaining full back tension to steady aim.
    6. Relax grip hand.
    7. Continue focussing on the target while squeezing the trigger to release.
    8. Follow through until arrow hits target.

    Today I did the following:
    1. Focus on the target and never leave it visually or in concentration.
    2. Come to full draw - right up to the wall.
    3. Relax draw arm to slightly reduce back tension and to come off the wall just a bit to leave “room” for some back tension.
    4. Confirm anchor.
    5. Place trigger on trigger.
    6. Aim by continuing to focus on the target while having the pin come onto the target while maintaining back tension to steady aim.
    7. Relax grip.
    8. Continue focussing on the target while increasing back tension until arrow is released.
    9. Follow through until arrow hits target.

    By changing over to back tension to trigger the release I noticed now that there is less wobbling while aiming. I had noticed this before, that while under full back tension wobbling was reduced. Yet I still had to concentrate on squeezing the trigger to release the arrow. Sometimes things got out of “sync” and I would freeze on the trigger, then punch it, causing a bad shot. There was always a sense of “timing” going on and anticipation of when the release would go off.

    Now the wobbling is reduced to the point where I have more confidence in the release, that the aim is steadier, and the release is a “surprise”, which is optimum for a good release. I practiced the entire session (~ 1 hour) using only back tension to release the arrow, and consistently placed the arrow in a 3”-4” circle, even getting a few bulls eyes (3/4" dot). I feel accuracy will improve once I nail down this method of releasing the arrow.

    I ended up shooting the final round at four different locations (total 6 arrows). At each of these I saw less wobbling than before. I fired 2 shots at 50 yd., 2 at 40 yd., 1 at 30 yd., and 1 at 20 yd. All 4 arrows from the 40 & 50 yd. distances were in a 4 “ circle, and the 2 from the 20 & 30 yd. distances were in the 3” circle. Even though I’m not shooting on target as frequently as before, I realize I have to spend the time practicing this technique. I’m encouraged!
    Last edited by Chris; 12-02-2008 at 01:28 PM.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2006


    There are over 50 clubs listed on the Michigan Archery Association website.

    Phone numbers and a few websites are listed. You should be able to find a club near your home.

    My experience has been that most archery clubs have a lot of knowledgeable archers who are more than willing to help new archers. I know that I would have given up archery long ago if I didn't have help and encouragement from the great people at my club.

    Be aware that for most of us, learning to shoot at a high level is a long process. One of the better shooters that I know took 5 years to shoot his first 300 round. He seldom shoots less than 58X's today.

    There is no magic recipe to learning to do this. There are seven general areas of form that make up a good shot. The key is to raise your level of consistency in each area. To do this you work on only one part at a time. This can be a long and boring process, but one that I think it's worthwhile.

    It is a valid truism that "archery is not a sport, it's a discipline". The more disciplined that a person is to start, the easier time they usually have learning to shoot well. This doesn't mean that people who are naturally less disciplined can't learn to be good archers, it just means that they have a little more work to do.

    Another key to archery is total honesty with yourself. Was that a good shot that hit the X or did you just make enough mistakes that they cancelled out and the arrow accidentily went into the X? Not all good shots hit the X and not all bad shots miss. Learn the difference and you will know what to work on to get better.

    There are two really good books on learning to shoot tournement archery. Larry Wise's "Core Archery" has already been mentioned. A new one that may be even better is Ruth Rowe's "Fundamentals of Compound Target Archery". Ruth brings her Olympic recurve experience and attention to form details to shooting a compound bow. She explains how to shoot back tension a little differently than Larry. Her explanation may click for you.

    There is also a video coming out any day now from George Ryals. It will cover shot execution. Chech out his GRIVtech website. It wasn't up last night but it won't be long. George is one of the guys who has been there and learned to do it the hard way.

    Good luck,
    Last edited by Allen; 12-02-2008 at 10:21 AM.

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