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Thread: Need Arrow help

  1. #1
    Telum Surculus Fanaticus Hosscoller's Avatar
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    Default Need Arrow help

    I need new arrows to tough out shooting Field Archery, I have a Hoyt Super Hawk set at 27" draw length, and 65lb draw weight. I have Easton ST Epics cut 27 3/4" from tip to nock, with 100gr points and 2" blazer vanes. I can't get a straight answer if these might be under spined at this draw weight. I'm to the point now where I need to order new arrows and would like to try something different. Any answers from the brainiacs out there would be appreciated.

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    What spine Epics are you using now?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hosscoller View Post
    I need new arrows to tough out shooting Field Archery, I have a Hoyt Super Hawk set at 27" draw length, and 65lb draw weight. I have Easton ST Epics cut 27 3/4" from tip to nock, with 100gr points and 2" blazer vanes. I can't get a straight answer if these might be under spined at this draw weight. I'm to the point now where I need to order new arrows and would like to try something different. Any answers from the brainiacs out there would be appreciated.
    I punched the 400 into TAP PRO on a hunch I might add some advise to you. Field is a great FUN archery discipline. I learned something that can make it not so fun is 65 pounds! LOL! Serious, 114 arrows is A LOT of shooting!!
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Daniel Boone's Avatar
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    Default Field

    Goldtip ultra light 400 would do you well.

    Im going to shoot the ACC Goldtip arrows this year for field. Goldtip chart on there websight should give you the arrow size in ACC.
    DB
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  5. #5
    Senior Member bwiz's Avatar
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    Maybe try temporarily reducung the draw weight on your bow and check your arrow flight. That would give an indication either way. Good Luck.

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  6. #6
    At least I admit Im Crazy Looney Bin's Avatar
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    I agree with TAP. 65lbs of draw weight is alot for field. If you can handle it for the 100+ arrows required to shoot a round, more power to ya. While I hunt with around 65lbs of DW. I found I was exhausted trying to shoot a field round at that weight. I shoot at 55lbs of DW.

    The GT Ultra lights would be an excellent cost effective choice for field.
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    I used to shoot field and concur with these guys. 65# is an effort in futility in a venue where the last arrow should be shot as accurately as the first. It's marked yardage so speed is not an issue here. About 55# would make a whole lot more sense.

    OK, on to what arrows to get. For serious field shooting I would opt for Easton ACC, probably 3-39 at your present specs. Drop the weight to under 60# and 3-28 (500 spine) should work.

    Can't or won't afford ACC's? Gold Tip markets a CAA (carbon aluminum arrow) that compares very favorably to the ACC, but at less cost. Just something to look at.

    Gees, I remember when I was shooting 51# and people thought I was nuts. The average male shot mid 40's. And by some sort of magic we could still reach 80 yards.
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  8. #8
    Telum Surculus Fanaticus Hosscoller's Avatar
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    The 65lbs is pretty easy for me, I shoot at least 2 hours everyday weather permitting, and I'm in CA, so the weather permits quite often. My club range sits on a big hill and it's a pretty good hump to negotiate all 28 targets. But I don't have a problem with it. Did I mention I'm 51........The club shoots are a long drawn out affair so there's plenty of recovery time, a lot of the guys shoot recurve, so we spend a lot of time diggin arrows out of the target frames
    It seems I shoot extremely well from 30 yards and further, my 20 yards and shorter seem inconsistent to me. I was afraid the arrow paradox was too extreme for shorter distances. Our longest shot is 92yards. And I want the bow to shoot as flat as I can possibly get it and remain comfortable to shoot the whole range. The hold weight is 20lbs right now, I may go back down to 18lbs.

    Thanks for the tips guys I really appreciate it.

    Hoss........................

  9. #9
    At least I admit Im Crazy Looney Bin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hosscoller View Post
    The 65lbs is pretty easy for me, I shoot at least 2 hours everyday weather permitting, and I'm in CA, so the weather permits quite often. My club range sits on a big hill and it's a pretty good hump to negotiate all 28 targets. But I don't have a problem with it. Did I mention I'm 51........The club shoots are a long drawn out affair so there's plenty of recovery time, a lot of the guys shoot recurve, so we spend a lot of time diggin arrows out of the target frames
    It seems I shoot extremely well from 30 yards and further, my 20 yards and shorter seem inconsistent to me. I was afraid the arrow paradox was too extreme for shorter distances. Our longest shot is 92yards. And I want the bow to shoot as flat as I can possibly get it and remain comfortable to shoot the whole range. The hold weight is 20lbs right now, I may go back down to 18lbs.

    Thanks for the tips guys I really appreciate it.

    Hoss........................


    Are you shooting the 400 spine like we assume????
    Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the Most!?!?!?


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    UH-OH. Did I hear you mention arrow paradox? You aren't by any chance shooting fingers are you? That changes things you know.
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  11. #11
    Telum Surculus Fanaticus Hosscoller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Looney Bin View Post
    Are you shooting the 400 spine like we assume????
    I am shooting Easton ST Epic 400's @ 27 3/4" in length. And no I do not shoot fingers. An arrow will always have paradox, it will flex at the nodes front and rear on it's way to the target. I'm just worried mine are flexing a bit too long while in early flight, hence my concern on the arrow spline being too weak. since I hit the spot consistantly at 30 yards and beyond. I guess I will have to strip two arrows and try some bare shaft tuning.

    Lateral differences in the groups - indicate that the shaft is either too weak or stiff for the set-up.

    For a right-handed archer if the unfletched group are to the right of the fletched group, then the shafts are too weak. If this is the case you could lower the bow weight (if adjustable), decrease the point weight (increases the effective stiffness of arrows)

    For a right-handed archer if the unfletched group are to the left of the fletched group, then the shafts are too stiff. In this case you could increase the weight of the bow (if adjustable), increase the point weight

    Maybe it will work for me, I'm still new to the art of tuning a bow.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Daniel Boone's Avatar
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    Default Shooting 65lbs

    Quote Originally Posted by Hosscoller View Post
    The 65lbs is pretty easy for me, I shoot at least 2 hours everyday weather permitting, and I'm in CA, so the weather permits quite often. My club range sits on a big hill and it's a pretty good hump to negotiate all 28 targets. But I don't have a problem with it. Did I mention I'm 51........The club shoots are a long drawn out affair so there's plenty of recovery time, a lot of the guys shoot recurve, so we spend a lot of time diggin arrows out of the target frames
    It seems I shoot extremely well from 30 yards and further, my 20 yards and shorter seem inconsistent to me. I was afraid the arrow paradox was too extreme for shorter distances. Our longest shot is 92yards. And I want the bow to shoot as flat as I can possibly get it and remain comfortable to shoot the whole range. The hold weight is 20lbs right now, I may go back down to 18lbs.

    Thanks for the tips guys I really appreciate it.

    Hoss........................

    Tom Crowe is over 60yrs old and shoots 82lbs for everthing.(wins alot of money as well) So it can be done and some believe the extra holding weight makes them a better shooter.
    DB
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  13. #13
    At least I admit Im Crazy Looney Bin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hosscoller View Post
    I am shooting Easton ST Epic 400's @ 27 3/4" in length. And no I do not shoot fingers. An arrow will always have paradox, it will flex at the nodes front and rear on it's way to the target. I'm just worried mine are flexing a bit too long while in early flight, hence my concern on the arrow spline being too weak. since I hit the spot consistantly at 30 yards and beyond. I guess I will have to strip two arrows and try some bare shaft tuning.

    Lateral differences in the groups - indicate that the shaft is either too weak or stiff for the set-up.

    For a right-handed archer if the unfletched group are to the right of the fletched group, then the shafts are too weak. If this is the case you could lower the bow weight (if adjustable), decrease the point weight (increases the effective stiffness of arrows)

    For a right-handed archer if the unfletched group are to the left of the fletched group, then the shafts are too stiff. In this case you could increase the weight of the bow (if adjustable), increase the point weight

    Maybe it will work for me, I'm still new to the art of tuning a bow.


    According to OT2(archery software) your spine is fine. Now that being said software and real time can be 2 different things. If you want to prove or disprove your spine being to weak, take a full turn off the limb bolts. Reducing your DW. This should make your dynamic spine stiff.

    If your shooting form is good, you should be able to get good groups at 20yds even with the spine being stiff or correct.

    Of course you want your spine to be a perfect as possible, but slightly stiff if you have good form and tune properly shouldn't be a problem.

    Don't be afraid to adjust the DW to assist you in tuning your arrows. What's 1lb here or a 1lb there, if your groups improve.

    What rest are you using???
    Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the Most!?!?!?


  14. #14
    Telum Surculus Fanaticus Hosscoller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Looney Bin View Post
    According to OT2(archery software) your spine is fine. Now that being said software and real time can be 2 different things. If you want to prove or disprove your spine being to weak, take a full turn off the limb bolts. Reducing your DW. This should make your dynamic spine stiff.

    If your shooting form is good, you should be able to get good groups at 20yds even with the spine being stiff or correct.

    Of course you want your spine to be a perfect as possible, but slightly stiff if you have good form and tune properly shouldn't be a problem.

    Don't be afraid to adjust the DW to assist you in tuning your arrows. What's 1lb here or a 1lb there, if your groups improve.

    What rest are you using???
    I use a QAD Ultra Rest, I have a Spot Hogg, Hogg-it sight, I will try half turns and see what happens with the consistancy of groups first at 20 then on out to 40, thats as far as I can shoot at home. I'm going up to the club range this weekend and will try it out to 70 on the practice butts. We have one shot that's 92 yards on the green stake, its fun to watch the recurve guys shoot that, we usually spend alot of time diggin arrows out of the wood frames. I can also test it on the 5, 7, 11 yard targets and see how those group.

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