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Thread: Changing sight

  1. #1
    Senior Member Ancient Archer's Avatar
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    Default Changing sight

    I just sold my BG Radiant Skycoil .029 sight and bought a single pin HHA OL5519 .019 slider sight. Should get it tomorrow or Monday.

    I was having problems with my new bow shooting faster/flatter than my previous bow. This required the pins for 20 yds & 30 yds to be closer together, resulting in the bright pins blurring each other to the point where I couldn't see the target well enough to shoot at. The new sight will take care of this problem.

    Anxiously awaiting its arrival.
    "A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!"
    2007/2008 Commander: 60lb/28" DL, HHA OL5519, Code Red, Choc Addiction, .400 Axis, Self-made Shoot-Thru
    2010 Elite GT500: 60lb/HHA DS5500, QAD UltraRest HD Pro Series, Victory VForce HV 400
    1965 Bear Kodiak Magnum Recurve 50lb, 52", Original Bear Quiver & Cedar Arrows

  2. #2
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    You'll like that sight. The rheostat is a nice feature.
    FBSA Member

  3. #3
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    I shoulda gotten the 5519, but the 5000 was on sale, so I sprung. Make sure you have the rest/nock point set-up you want to go with so you won't waste a bunch of sight tapes. I recently bought the "B" 4X lens kit for it, and it really helps. 6X would've been better. Sure magnifies the "twitches."

  4. #4
    Senior Member Ancient Archer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomT View Post
    I shoulda gotten the 5519, but the 5000 was on sale, so I sprung. Make sure you have the rest/nock point set-up you want to go with so you won't waste a bunch of sight tapes. I recently bought the "B" 4X lens kit for it, and it really helps. 6X would've been better. Sure magnifies the "twitches."
    I was thinking of putting a strip of masking tape on while sighting in to avoid messing up the tapes provided with the sight. Then I would match the test tape against the new tapes. Wouldn't that work?

    Also, I'm thinking I should sight in the bow at my minimum yardage, say 10 yds, or 20 yds. with the slider pin at the bottom. That would then give me the whole sight range to work with. Sound reasonable?

    Your comments are appreciated.
    "A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!"
    2007/2008 Commander: 60lb/28" DL, HHA OL5519, Code Red, Choc Addiction, .400 Axis, Self-made Shoot-Thru
    2010 Elite GT500: 60lb/HHA DS5500, QAD UltraRest HD Pro Series, Victory VForce HV 400
    1965 Bear Kodiak Magnum Recurve 50lb, 52", Original Bear Quiver & Cedar Arrows

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Archer View Post
    I was thinking of putting a strip of masking tape on while sighting in to avoid messing up the tapes provided with the sight. Then I would match the test tape against the new tapes. Wouldn't that work?

    Also, I'm thinking I should sight in the bow at my minimum yardage, say 10 yds, or 20 yds. with the slider pin at the bottom. That would then give me the whole sight range to work with. Sound reasonable?

    Your comments are appreciated.
    You have "sighting" strips, and corresponding strips marked in yardages. To get an accurate sighting in of all intermedate distances, you must sight your bow in at 20 and 60 yards, or 20 and 40 yards. They give you all the formulas for both. I just used the bare strip plate, cranked the sight all the way down for 20 yards, and gradually worked my way back to 60 yards. Once you find those, put your "sighting" strip on with the "0" at 20, and note the number at 60 yards. That will be the number of the tape to use. It was really tough for me to really get a good group at 60 yards so I bought the 4X lens which helped. You also have two frame positions, in, and out, and 5 different elevation hole sets so you can move the scope tube up or down.
    I've been having heck with a getting a drop rest adjusted so I can get 20 and 60. Must be the nock point. No problem with a fixed rest.
    I think you'll like it. Directions are exellent. It's really well made, and their techs can explain simple stuff to somebody as ignorant as I am...which is a real challenge, I'm sure.

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