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Thread: paper tuning

  1. #1
    Story of my life Radar's Avatar
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    Default paper tuning

    I am not the smartest cookie in the jar but if you have a right tear doesnt that mean the shaft is too stiff
    Target: Hoyt ProElite XT3000 C2, 60# 30", CBE Quad Lite, CBE 3x .019, Trophy Taker, Easton Fatboy 400's(indoor) lightspeed 400 (outdoor)

    Hunting: 2009 Alphamax35 (Blacked out) 70#, 29", HHA Slider, Bisquit, Easton ACC 3-60, Rage 100 gr. 2 blade

  2. #2
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    Default

    Not always. for a right handed shooter the rest may need to move left if the fletch is tearing right from where the point is going through. Sometimes you can also have some cam lean too.

  3. #3
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    It's difficult to test for spine with a compound bow shot with a mechanical release. The only way I know to do it is with bare shaft tuning. And then only after you have everything else tuned. If someone knows of another method, I'd love to hear about it.

    Tears when paper tuning will primarily tell you how to adjust your nock height and centershot. Then if those adjustments don't work, look to other problems such as cam lean, cam syncronization, hand torque, fletch contact, etc. Of course, you should set these things before you begin paper tuning, but we often don't.

    Checking for spine with bows shot with fingers is easier since you get the sideways movement of the arrow off of the fingers. Many mechanical releases impart a tiny bit of sideways movement to the arrow, but it's so small that spine is not as big a factor as it is for finger shooters.

    If you are getting a right tear, first check cam lean and fletch contact. Then adjust your centershot. If those don't work, look to your form, it's likely hand torque, though it could be something else.

  4. #4
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    generally when I have had the wrong spined arrow it created a bigger hole in the paper like a circleing effect but thats just me, Id probbly start out with moving my rest to the left a little bit because that would be the easiest to start with and if it doesnt work then move on to something else..and always shoot a couple arrows because you could get a bad tear from your grip or something small like that and be fighting a lost cause

  5. #5

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    If the right tear is on the XLR, you might have to move some spacers around on the cams. This was one of the problems on the XLR. I can't remember which direction you go with the cam. Might be worth a call to Elite.

    The XLR tunes up further out from the riser than you would think. I hope this helps.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Daniel Boone's Avatar
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    Default Paper Tuning

    Page 6 on this link will help.

    http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
    Elite bows, Vortex Binos, Trophy Taker sights, Carter releases, Goldtip Arrows. CBE sights, Vapor Trail Strings, B Stinger stabilizers

  7. #7
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    My XLR tunes right at 7/8. I did switch my limbs and changed my shims but once I got it set. It is paper tuning great. I am using a TT spring rest on it and shooting gold tip 400's for field. It is a great bow. I love it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Boone View Post
    great link. thanks.

  9. #9
    Story of my life Radar's Avatar
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    thanks for the info guys, I have to get time to mess with it.
    Target: Hoyt ProElite XT3000 C2, 60# 30", CBE Quad Lite, CBE 3x .019, Trophy Taker, Easton Fatboy 400's(indoor) lightspeed 400 (outdoor)

    Hunting: 2009 Alphamax35 (Blacked out) 70#, 29", HHA Slider, Bisquit, Easton ACC 3-60, Rage 100 gr. 2 blade

  10. #10

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    paper tunig can drive you nuts if you try to get it perfect. I just get it close and see how they fly at 40 yards. If they are flying straight I leave it alone.
    Mathews Switchback, HHA 5519, Ripcord code Red rest, Cartel stabilizer, Scott little bitty goose, Carter Target 4+,... and a few other things.

    Oregon Descutes 65-80 lb. bow (sold)

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