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Thread: tech question

  1. #1
    Senior Member J.A.G.'s Avatar
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    Default tech question

    if an arrow shoots through paper fine and groups well with field points from 20-40 yards, but when you try it with broadheads the arrow flies 6" high.. what it the problem?
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    You have to get the arrow and head in tune. If fixed bladed may try lining up the fetching with the blades of broadhead. if that does not work try different heads. Can def. be a headache.

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    Senior Member TMax27's Avatar
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    JAG, your nocking point is too low. Move your rest down 1/32" at a time until the FP's and the BH's come together. The broadhead amplifies the slight nock height problem.

    The gist of broadhead tuning is that you move your rest toward your field points, assuming your arrow/broadhead spins true and is the correct spine, the FP groups and the BH groups will come together.

    Check out Easton's Tuning Guide, it has a section on broadhead tuning.
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    Senior Member J.A.G.'s Avatar
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    Yes, fixed blade. I did that. I turned them every possible way. same results.
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    Senior Member J.A.G.'s Avatar
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    the next thing i did was get out some completely different arrows. the field point shot great... tried 2 different types of broadheads, they shot great as well...

    It was just on that one type of arrow that the broadheads would not fly, but the points would.

    could just a small amount of difference in spine cause that?
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    Senior Member TMax27's Avatar
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    Its my understanding that with fixed blades, any spine issue, centershot or nock height issue is amplified due to the blades steering the front end of the arrow. So, yes, a different spine could be the problem.

    Was the first set of arrows squared up with a ASD? Did you check that the broadheads spun true? Just throwing out some possible explanations
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    Senior Member J.A.G.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMax27 View Post
    Its my understanding that with fixed blades, any spine issue, centershot or nock height issue is amplified due to the blades steering the front end of the arrow. So, yes, a different spine could be the problem.

    Was the first set of arrows squared up with a ASD? Yes Did you check that the broadheads spun true? Yes Just throwing out some possible explanations
    I was real careful getting the centershot and nock height where i thought it should be and since the same broadheads shot fine with arrow brand #2, it has to be that arrow brand#1 was spined a little much... has to be..it just really stumped me to see them fly that much higher.
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    Junior Member hutchies's Avatar
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    Simple fix.............That's what broadhead tuning does. Sounds like you are a little nock low. Try raising your nock point a 1/16 or lowering your rest a 1/16 of an inch and see if it gets better. Move a 1/16 at a time til you find where the broadheads and fieldpoints meet the same point of impact. I'm assuming that you are spin testing your heads.

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    Senior Member J.A.G.'s Avatar
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    Thanks guys.. I'll play with the nock a little and see what it does
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    Junior Member hutchies's Avatar
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    Well did you get it to slinging darts?

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    Default Watch this at youtube

    Hi
    Watch this at youtube.com..this guy is great !

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw

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    Quote Originally Posted by J.A.G. View Post
    Yes, fixed blade. I did that. I turned them every possible way. same results.
    Which just proves that lining jup fletching with the blade is hogwash.

    If you don't already have a copy get Easton's Tuning Guide. It's a free download on their website, or Hunter's Friend or Archery Talk. It'' explain how to tune a bow using several methods, including broadhead tuning, which is what you need help with.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    Which just proves that lining up fletching with the blade is hogwash........
    Hogwash is an understatement but I do get a chuckle every time I see it posted. Sure would like to see a blade/fletch alighnment person post a scientific explanation on why this affects tune...............

    that won't happen but if it does, I will have another chuckle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aimo61 View Post
    Hi
    Watch this at youtube.com..this guy is great !

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw
    Maybe great in your mind but @ 0:48 he speaks of indexing (BH fletch alingnment) wich is actually harmless but just plain a waist of time. @ 4:38, and after the propper rest adjustments to get the BH's to hit the same spot as the previously shot FP's, he goes on to say, in essence, that the FP's will now impact the same point as the BH's because they are FP's (that ain't happenin).

    Anyways, you may be right about him being a great guy but other than informing the uninformed that they should move their rest to get a BH's impact point to move, that video was worthless and missleading.

    On the other hand I now have the confidence to make my own videos.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by MickeyBee View Post
    other than informing the uninformed that they should move their rest to get a BH's impact point to move...
    What is your solution to getting BH's to impact with FPs?

    Two main points he left out were:
    1. Its a cat mouse came between your FPs and BHs, meaning you can't just adjust the rest for the BHs until the BHs hit the dot your FPs first hit. You need to keep shooting FPs to verify that you are indeed getting the two impacts points closer together.
    2. After your BHs and FPs hit together, then adjust your sight.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMax27 View Post
    What is your solution to getting BH's to impact with FPs?
    If you have good form, bare shaft tune at 20 and then BH tune. If your BS is good, odds are that you won't need a BH tune.

    If you have less than ideal form, you will have to keep moving your rest/nock point, alternating between BH's & FP's untill they share the same impact point (this is with the assumption that your equipment is up to snuff!!!). To save time, over adjust the rest on the first movement....in other words, if you were 4" low with BH's vs the FP's....adjust the rest/nock point to get an inch or two higher BH impact point before FP verification.

    The best solution is practice and tuning!!!!!
    After that, large fletch and/or expandables.
    After that, and if you are still having problems, enjoy nature with a camera and leave the animals for someone who can make an ethical shot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MickeyBee View Post
    If you have good form, bare shaft tune at 20 and then BH tune. If your BS is good, odds are that you won't need a BH tune.

    If you have less than ideal form, you will have to keep moving your rest/nock point, alternating between BH's & FP's untill they share the same impact point (this is with the assumption that your equipment is up to snuff!!!). To save time, over adjust the rest on the first movement....in other words, if you were 4" low with BH's vs the FP's....adjust the rest/nock point to get an inch or two higher BH impact point before FP verification.

    The best solution is practice and tuning!!!!!
    After that, large fletch and/or expandables.
    After that, and if you are still having problems, enjoy nature with a camera and leave the animals for someone who can make an ethical shot.
    I thought you had some new revolutionary way of broadhead tuning that's why I asked. Turns out the "move your rest/nock point" method still is the way to go.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMax27 View Post
    I thought you had some new revolutionary way of broadhead tuning............
    LOL......sorry if I dissappointed you......but now that I think of it, there is this guy who does. I'll ask him this Sunday when I go to his house.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MickeyBee View Post
    LOL......sorry if I dissappointed you......but now that I think of it, there is this guy who does. I'll ask him this Sunday when I go to his house.
    Hmmm... Very interested.
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    Default similiar situation

    JAG, I had a similiar situation one time. My arrows shot perfect with field points but was very erratic with broadheads. What I ended up doing was going to the next stiffer spine size on my arrows. That fixed my problem. Maybe it's worth trying. Hope this helps.

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