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Thread: binoculars

  1. #1
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    Default binoculars

    Ok what in your opion is the best size of binos to use for 3d shoots? Trying to figure out whats going to be the best choice. Currently I'm using 12x42 and am wanting more powerful ones. But is there such a thing as to powerful.
    I want to make an informed decision before spending the money.
    thanks for your thoughts.

  2. #2
    Wheely Threads Wheely's Avatar
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    small, light weight, with as much power as you can get

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    12X is probably overkill. I find 8x to be fine, but I'm using Swarovski. I know not everybody can afford high quality binocular, but I do advise getting one with the best possible glass you can afford. Good ones come at a price, but when looking into shadows and/or failing light is where the good ones shine. More magnification isn't always the answer.
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    Senior Member TMax27's Avatar
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    IMO The brighter the better. You want to be able to see the definition on a target in the shadows, the black targets, etc. The higher the power in a particular objective size, the less light will be transmitted to your eyes, therefore seeing less definition on a target. For example a 8X42 will be brighter than a 10X42, with the assumption you are looking at the same model from a company.

    Going to a higher power isn't neccessarily going to allow you to see more. Personnally, I think a good 10x42 is the best of both worlds. A 10X52 will be a little better brightness wise, but they are also heavier. If you go to a 15 power, I think you would have useless magnification, w/ a loss of brightness.
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  5. #5

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    the more power, you lose brightness because the exit pupil gets smaller as power goes up. Less light can get thru and you have to use larger and larger objective lenses to compensate. As magnification increases bino quality becomes more of a concern. I think the 8-8.5x 40-42-43 range are the best way to go. 8x36 if your wanting more compactness.
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    Vendetta Archery Owner jfuller17's Avatar
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    I use a 10x42 and have found them to almost perfect. They are Alpen Shasta Ridges and were only 175.00 and are well worth it. The warranty is awsome as well.
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    Default thanks

    Thanks for all the input. I decided to get a pair of 20x50 for the early part of the season then switch bask to my 12x42's once the leaves get on the trees(if the shadows presnt to much of a problem). Again thank you.

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    Senior Member asa1485's Avatar
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    Not trying to talk you out of it but, when you go over a 12 power, you will start to lose a lot of light. Picture will be darker, not as clear, and a little harder to pick up on things. Will also be shaky as all get out.


    I also use a 10X42 and do not plan on changing anytime soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by srj26 View Post
    Thanks for all the input. I decided to get a pair of 20x50 for the early part of the season then switch bask to my 12x42's once the leaves get on the trees(if the shadows presnt to much of a problem). Again thank you.
    May as well order a tripod with them. You're going to need it. And I don't kno how much you compete, but don't plan on using them in any NFAA or IBO sanctioned shoots.
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  10. #10

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    20X50 lmao.
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    whats wrong with them at nfaa or ibo events? and as far as wieght they are no bigger than the 12x42's i have now. i have a hard time seening the scoring lines as it is with the 12x42's and need more magnification to see the lines, light right now isn't a problem but may be in a couple of months by then i should be know where the 12 ring is on most targets.

  12. #12

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    8 -8.5X is fine as long as its bright and clear. Definition is key. Howfar are you setting your 3D targets out, 200 yds?
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    Quote Originally Posted by srj26 View Post
    whats wrong with them at nfaa or ibo events? and as far as wieght they are no bigger than the 12x42's i have now. i have a hard time seening the scoring lines as it is with the 12x42's and need more magnification to see the lines, light right now isn't a problem but may be in a couple of months by then i should be know where the 12 ring is on most targets.
    I'm not absolutely certain about NFAA, but IBO rules out anything more than 8.5 magnification. If you check the rules of the IBO, NFAA, and ASA you will see just what restrictions they have.

    And the statement about needing a tripod has nothing to do with weight. It has to do with not being able to hold a 20X50 still enough to DEFINE anything.

    Notice that word define? Add a little suffix and you end up with the word "definition". This means being able to see details on a target such as muscle definition. This where you need good glass, not more magnification from poor ones. That does not necessarily mean $1000 Swarovski either. It just means binocular with good glass in the lenses.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    I'm not absolutely certain about NFAA, but IBO rules out anything more than 8.5 magnification. If you check the rules of the IBO, NFAA, and ASA you will see just what restrictions they have.

    And the statement about needing a tripod has nothing to do with weight. It has to do with not being able to hold a 20X50 still enough to DEFINE anything.

    Notice that word define? Add a little suffix and you end up with the word "definition". This means being able to see details on a target such as muscle definition. This where you need good glass, not more magnification from poor ones. That does not necessarily mean $1000 Swarovski either. It just means binocular with good glass in the lenses.
    Well after searching through IBO, ASA, and NFAA IBO is the only association that has a magnification rule on binoculars(unless i missed it). Luckily I don't know of any events using IBO rules here in my area of MO(most are ASA and NFAA)

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    Well after todays shoot I found my 20x50's worked great. And as far as being shaky well i don't care what kind of binos you had with the wind that was blowing everything was moving! The only complaint I would have and its the same with every pair I have ever had would be having to lift my glasses every time I go to use them. Got to get lasik

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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    I'm not absolutely certain about NFAA, but IBO rules out anything more than 8.5 magnification. If you check the rules of the IBO, NFAA, and ASA you will see just what restrictions they have.

    And the statement about needing a tripod has nothing to do with weight. It has to do with not being able to hold a 20X50 still enough to DEFINE anything.

    Notice that word define? Add a little suffix and you end up with the word "definition". This means being able to see details on a target such as muscle definition. This where you need good glass, not more magnification from poor ones. That does not necessarily mean $1000 Swarovski either. It just means binocular with good glass in the lenses.


    I call BS on this

    A few of us use 15x56s and we don't need a tri pod, just rest the bino on top of your bow and read the target.

    And yes they do come in handy when reading a target out to 102 yards in ref to the Redding CA. shoot or any of the NFAA outdoor Field rounds at 80

    Even IBO has opened up the rules, and NFAA never had a restriction.

    Just sayin
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  17. #17

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    true that and most are laughin or shakin theyre head.
    Last edited by Compound Comedian; 04-12-2011 at 06:12 PM.
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  18. #18
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    i use what ever bass pro has on sale seeing the target is one thing hitting the 11 ring something totally different

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