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  1. #1
    Senior Member rdnkgrl_robinhood's Avatar
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    Default question about zero valley on the new Hoyt

    Ok fellas, I have to say I really dont know a lot about the valley or the wall so I will try to explain this as simple as I can...
    The bow is smooth draw, when I get it to that point that it breaks over to the let off there is just a fraction of an inch of movement that I can make before it tries to rip forward and take my arm off.
    I mean I have no room to adjust myself or anything. I really dont understand this.. Is this a tuning issue, or is there something wrong?
    Is the valley length adjustable on these bows? What do I do?

    rdnkgrl

  2. #2
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    Default

    its adjustable but you would have to adjust YOUR draw length.....try a stretching machine.....
    I cut things up and split them down!

  3. #3
    Senior Member rdnkgrl_robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOWMAN View Post
    its adjustable but you would have to adjust YOUR draw length.....try a stretching machine.....
    thx.. ur so funny

    rdnkgrl

  4. #4
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    Thumbs up Narrow Valley

    I had the same problem on my Trykon when I first got it. When it broke over the difference was so much at 80%, that I would bounce off the back wall and back over the hump. I finally got used to it and it doesn't happen anymore. I still wish it had a little wider valley. Let us know how it works out
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  5. #5
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    not real familier w/the way the cam and 1/2 is set up but isnt it the longer the draw the longer the valley?? i am just wondering.....
    I cut things up and split them down!

  6. #6
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    Default

    I had this same problem alot of years ago when I changed to a single cam bow. The drop off to the valley on most bows today is pretty abrupt and there isn't much valley. Seems about the time you hit the valley you hit the wall.

    The best way to become accustomed to this new feels is two fold. One is to shortern the draw length of the bow about one notch (screwhole) on your cam's module. This will ensure that when you creep a little (you shouldn't, but do) you'll still be "back there".
    The second is to lower the draw weight for now till you get used to and can better control the bow when the cam rolls over the hump. And actually leaving the weight lower has helped me immensely in the accuracy department as well. It's your call.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rdnkgrl_robinhood View Post
    Ok fellas, I have to say I really dont know a lot about the valley or the wall so I will try to explain this as simple as I can...
    The bow is smooth draw, when I get it to that point that it breaks over to the let off there is just a fraction of an inch of movement that I can make before it tries to rip forward and take my arm off.
    I mean I have no room to adjust myself or anything. I really dont understand this.. Is this a tuning issue, or is there something wrong?
    Is the valley length adjustable on these bows? What do I do?

    rdnkgrl


    Could be a few different things. First, draw length could be too long. Second, cam timing or sync could be off causing one cam to roll over before the other, that would cause it to feel like it has no valley and have a very soft wall. And third, if you have your modules set in different positions (example,bottom cam in C and top cam in E) or modules set in the E or F holes. The top or longer draw length settings will cause a shorter valley and less % of letoff.

  8. #8

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    Most likely the cams are not synch'd properly. Did anyone check it?
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  9. #9
    Senior Member rdnkgrl_robinhood's Avatar
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    Default

    Well took the Hoyt in to have it checked out, he did a little adjusting on the cams and got them all synced correctly. Now the roll over is a littler easier to control, though it does still have a short valley. I think because this is such a new bow to me, I will eventually get used to it in time.
    This is first really nice bow I have ever had, and there is so much to get used to with all the new equipment that I have aquiered over the holidays.
    Right now I have the weight turned down on the bow to about 45 pounds, and the draw is right at 26 inches. I could pull more weight, but I want to get comfortable with bow before I crank it up.
    Tomorrow I will shoot it and see how it feels..

    rdnkgrl

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdnkgrl_robinhood View Post
    Well took the Hoyt in to have it checked out, he did a little adjusting on the cams and got them all synced correctly. Now the roll over is a littler easier to control, though it does still have a short valley. I think because this is such a new bow to me, I will eventually get used to it in time.
    This is first really nice bow I have ever had, and there is so much to get used to with all the new equipment that I have aquiered over the holidays.
    Right now I have the weight turned down on the bow to about 45 pounds, and the draw is right at 26 inches. I could pull more weight, but I want to get comfortable with bow before I crank it up.
    Tomorrow I will shoot it and see how it feels..

    rdnkgrl
    Smart move. Give it time.

  11. #11
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    Default

    This is actually pretty common. the trick is to not let it inch forward on you

    I know you JUST got that brand new sexy bow but you may want to try shooting a Ross just to try out if you adjust a lot after the draw.

    Only reason I'm suggesting it is the Ross barely has any noticeable valley and a very spongy back wall, personally I hate it for target shooting but it is perfect for hunting imho. Then again I shoot an OG for target which has a solid back wall and i'm just very used to it.
    No I'm not dead

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