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Thread: tuning puzzle

  1. #1
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    Default tuning puzzle

    Recently my Bear single cam bow had a stetched string, and my groups were opening up dramatically, probalby due to poor form. With no string available in the time I needed it, I replaced the module to simply shorten the draw length, and it worked fine, after re-leveling the nocking point and moving the peep.

    However, on paper tuning, I get a consisted slight right tear (right handed), and have moved the rest (whisker buscuit) to the right in small increments chasing the perfect bullet hole. I ran out of time and left it with a slight right tear, as I was getting OK grouping. All fletch tears are out of the hole, but about an arrow diameter to one side with the right one longer.

    Grouping is pretty good, but the arrow is now aligned to the right of the string, for a release shooter. By pretty good, I mean that I'm shooting about as well as I ever do, with three inch groups at 30 yards and 4 inch groups at 40 yards. I think my 20 yard groups may be a bit bigger than before, but still staying about 2 inches or a bit more.

    I will be grateful for any suggestions or teaching on how to get it better tuned. I use the Easton tuning guide, and it has not let me down yet. I know that spending a bit more time with it I'll likely find the solution, but would appreciate some wisdom from some of your tuning gurus.

    Thank you very much,

  2. #2
    Guest Gator eye's Avatar
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    Default Paper will only get you so far and it...

    sounds like it's time to put the paper away and spin on your broadheads.

    If your broadheads are flying with your practise tips you job is done, if not it's time to do alittle broadhead tuning.

    If you have a question on how to broadhead tune, do a search on u tube there are a couple of video's on it that explain it way better than I can by typing.

    One other thing if the right tear is constant and you can't get your broadheads to tune you might need to check for cam lean and give one of your yokes a twist or two.

  3. #3
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    Default Thank you Gator

    Broadhead wise, I'm pretty happy. After many years of tuning, sighting, grouping and shooting critters with broadheads I found a mechanical that truly does shoot with the field points and kills as well as any fixed broad head (whitetail deer).

    Today I returned my rest to more or less center (low cam is located left while idler is centered so it's hard to know precisely), re- adjusted the sights, and am shooting point of aim at 20 to 40 yards. Interestingly, the groups are an inch or so higher than as described in the previous post, and I'm guessing it's because of cleaner seperation. I have not paper or unfletched arrow tuned since the re-adjustments, but groups are no worse and appear to be a bit tighter.

    I truly appreciate any and all ideas, suggestions, and tutoring.


    Mike

  4. #4
    Shooting Edge Technology 09Dreamseason's Avatar
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    Default

    since you have so many years of tuning under your belt, have you bare shaft tuned it to see if the bare shaft is shooting correctly? You may have an issue with your fletching hitting that WB and sometimes rotating your ****vane to go directly out instead of up can help with that little bit of inconsistency while shooting a WB!

    Something to try for you anyway.......
    '09 PSE X-Force Dream Season GX
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  5. #5
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    Default

    Thank you Dream. I'll give that a try. Simply centering everything up again on this single cam bow gave a noticable improvement, but I haven't paper or bare shaft tested it yet. Ususally there is room for improvement, for those who are interested in squeezing the most out of a bow.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Something else to consider when discussing string stretch (correct term is creep--permanent elongation). The nocking point might be a tad lower in relation to it's original setting. This is because with a single cam bow having such a long string and the nocking point is approximately only 1/4 of the way up from the bottom cam. Because the string extends above the nocking point and over the idler wheel then down to the cam again there is actually about 3/4 of the string above the nocking point (hope this makes sense to you). The string stretches about the same over it's entire length so when it does it effectively lowers the nocking point in relation to it's original position with the rest. Make sense?
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  7. #7
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    Default

    Thanks BF,
    Yes, that makes lots of sense. My first single cam unit and first bow I'm shooting exclusively with a realase. Yep, I'm a dinosaur. For some reason I was always more competitive in fingers class, and actally found it more difficult to switch to a release. Maybe just because there are less competitors who stll shoot fingers. I was surprised to see the string length at 86 or some such, when I traced it all the way around. In this case I simple replaced the nocking point with a loop, and leveled it. It's shooting about as well as I can now, I think.

  8. #8
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    Default

    If you can press the bow, then I would take the string and twist it up until it was the correct length and put the correct draw length module back on the bow. While you are at it check the length on the bus cable also. Put the bow back in spec's. and then tune everything up.

    I have an interesting tuning deal going on with my bow. The broadheads and bareshaft arrows were hitting together but about 3" right of my field points. Also the bare shaft was kicked tail left. So today I decided to see if I could get the broadheads and field points hitting together. I got them very close but now the bareshaft is further to the right by about 6".

    So now I have the fletched field tips and broadheads hitting together out to 40 yards but the bare shaft is now farther away from the other arrows. Since I don't plan on shooting bare shafts very often I am probably just going to leave things as they are. But it makes me wonder what is going on. I have checked for fletching contact and there is none.

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