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  1. #1
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    Default arrow cut to short?

    So I was shooting and I noticed my arrows are about 3" over my rest. I asked the pro shop guy to cut them to 1" of the rest. When he checked he used fingers below the rest, I shoot release and D loop. So when I drew back after the cutting my arrows (and I hope I am saying this right) will just hit the rest with the insert tip if I pull just into the vally of the draw. If I pull "hard into the wall" they will ride over and either the very head will sit on the rest or just fall through. Is this as bad as I think? Should I just be carefull and shoot them this way, or should I have him recut them?

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    Quote Originally Posted by n2t View Post
    So I was shooting and I noticed my arrows are about 3" over my rest. I asked the pro shop guy to cut them to 1" of the rest. When he checked he used fingers below the rest, I shoot release and D loop. So when I drew back after the cutting my arrows (and I hope I am saying this right) will just hit the rest with the insert tip if I pull just into the vally of the draw. If I pull "hard into the wall" they will ride over and either the very head will sit on the rest or just fall through. Is this as bad as I think? Should I just be carefull and shoot them this way, or should I have him recut them?
    yeah its worse then you think.

    what happens when you shoot broadheads?

    btw... how are you pulling past the wall? it should be a solid stop. if you can pull through the wall your doing something wrong
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  3. #3
    I pray for you! BUNNYMAN's Avatar
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    why were you conserned about the arrows being 3 inches over the rest???

    my hunting arrows are almost three inches over the rest and fly great.....and the 21 extra grains are nothing
    I cut things up and split them down!

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    someone told me the added stiffness would assist accuracy. After the cut I put the first two arrows touching at 20 yards. I was shooting in the low 200, 207 to be exact and figured a bit of speed and stiffness wouldn't hurt any. I don't think I'm pulling to hard or to far, I think the proshop guy is pulling into the wall then letting up a tad. I think I'll get new arrows done an inch over what these are.

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    Quote Originally Posted by n2t View Post
    someone told me the added stiffness would assist accuracy. After the cut I put the first two arrows touching at 20 yards. I was shooting in the low 200, 207 to be exact and figured a bit of speed and stiffness wouldn't hurt any. I don't think I'm pulling to hard or to far, I think the proshop guy is pulling into the wall then letting up a tad. I think I'll get new arrows done an inch over what these are.
    I'm not sure what he is doing but it doesn't make sense...

    if your arrows aren't spined correctly they won't fly right, that is true, however cutting the arrows to short to shoot safely is not a good way to go! On top of that I have no idea how he is pulling through the wall but it sounds to me like this is a bad idea just waiting to turn into an accident. Don't shoot arrows that are to short for you bow. you ALWAYS want something in front of the rest. I would never suggest having your insert come onto your rest or even touch your rest. I normally look to have at least 1/2 an inch between my rest and my insert just for safety reasons.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dredly View Post
    I'm not sure what he is doing but it doesn't make sense...

    if your arrows aren't spined correctly they won't fly right, that is true, however cutting the arrows to short to shoot safely is not a good way to go! On top of that I have no idea how he is pulling through the wall but it sounds to me like this is a bad idea just waiting to turn into an accident. Don't shoot arrows that are to short for you bow. you ALWAYS want something in front of the rest. I would never suggest having your insert come onto your rest or even touch your rest. I normally look to have at least 1/2 an inch between my rest and my insert just for safety reasons.
    he said pulling into the wall and letting up a tad....not thru the wall....thats what koolaid man does.....

    we used to shoot overdraws and short arrows (alluminums) to get speed.....you dont need to do this anymore as the arrows are so light anyway....
    I cut things up and split them down!

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    Quote Originally Posted by BOWMAN View Post
    he said pulling into the wall and letting up a tad....not thru the wall....thats what koolaid man does.....

    we used to shoot overdraws and short arrows (alluminums) to get speed.....you dont need to do this anymore as the arrows are so light anyway....
    Why would you let up a bit? I'm confused... to me that would mean your drawlength is wrong...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dredly View Post
    Why would you let up a bit? I'm confused... to me that would mean your drawlength is wrong...
    no...not really.....I have found that if I pull hard into the wall of my Switchback, it dont shoot as good as if i creep just to the letoff point...where you really feel the 80%.....
    I cut things up and split them down!

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    how much creep are you talking about?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dredly View Post
    how much creep are you talking about?
    4-5 inches or so??????is that too much????

    just enough to feel the letoff......a centimeter or two......
    I cut things up and split them down!

  11. #11
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    Sounds like Bowman needs a creeper peeper, oh wait, they won't work on a mathews, but it will work on my new vectrix xl that came in today. Don't think I need it though.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOWMAN View Post
    4-5 inches or so??????is that too much????

    just enough to feel the letoff......a centimeter or two......
    So how would 2 centimeters make a difference in arrow length? I still don't understand it... must be a Mathews thing. if I creep up 1/2 an inch on my bowtech its going to want to release
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clover & Oats View Post
    Sounds like Bowman needs a creeper peeper, oh wait, they won't work on a mathews, but it will work on my new vectrix xl that came in today. Don't think I need it though.
    maybe your miss under standing this guys........

    when you draw you bow....you do know how to do that right????

    ok so you draw your bow back and anchor....you know on some bows that have almost no valley....if you creep just a tiny bit its ready to take your arm off.....well what would you call that happy space????

    I call it the letoff.....and the place that my bow shoots the best from.....whathe was talking about was pulling into the wall.....
    I cut things up and split them down!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dredly View Post
    So how would 2 centimeters make a difference in arrow length? I still don't understand it... must be a Mathews thing. if I creep up 1/2 an inch on my bowtech its going to want to release
    i am going to re-read this as you have me really lost right know.....
    I cut things up and split them down!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by n2t View Post
    So I was shooting and I noticed my arrows are about 3" over my rest. I asked the pro shop guy to cut them to 1" of the rest. When he checked he used fingers below the rest, I shoot release and D loop. So when I drew back after the cutting my arrows (and I hope I am saying this right) will just hit the rest with the insert tip if I pull just into the vally of the draw. If I pull "hard into the wall" they will ride over and either the very head will sit on the rest or just fall through. Is this as bad as I think? Should I just be carefull and shoot them this way, or should I have him recut them?
    So basically what he is saying is he pulls to that "happy" spot as you call it then the insert is sitting on the rest and if he pulls to the wall (which SHOULD be where his draw length is set for) the arrow falls off the rest.

    I still cannot figure out why you wouldn't want to shoot from the wall. if your more comfortable shooting at 1/4 inch less then twist up the string more and make your drawlength 1'4 inch less!
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  16. #16
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    ummmmm a say he should have drawn the bow and found his ancor himself, then had some one else mark the arrow 1 inch from the rest and cut them arrows their!! not let someone else draw it........ wall dont mean much at some poundages, I shot a guys target bow a while back, it was at like 52 lbs, and about 2 inches shorter draw then mine, well i was shooting about 68 on mine, and i grabbed it and pulled like it was mine.... uhhh the arrow came right off the back, lol though i was going to snap that thing in half.... when he draws it, hes got 1/2 of arrow off the front of the rest.... he needs to pull his own back to get the proper mesurment.......

  17. #17
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    I think my orion has what's called a soft wall. I can pull it back then I have just a "touch" of "wiggle room. When I anchor I'm fine but if I draw back and pull just into that wiggle room as in hard into the wall the arrow will go from just sitting on the rest with the insert to going past a bit and the tip dropping off through my pronghorns. The pro shop guy drew it back to have me mark it figuring that noch to rest would be the same for everyone. When he did that I marked the arrow at the rest and had him "add an inch" for safety. However when he pulled back he used a three finger below the loop hold which changed the angle of the string, when I draw back with a release, the angle changed enough to make my one inch safey measure right on the edge of my draw because the two holding methods changed the angle of the string and the nocks distance in relation to the arrow. Better?

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    Quote Originally Posted by n2t View Post
    I think my orion has what's called a soft wall. I can pull it back then I have just a "touch" of "wiggle room. When I anchor I'm fine but if I draw back and pull just into that wiggle room as in hard into the wall the arrow will go from just sitting on the rest with the insert to going past a bit and the tip dropping off through my pronghorns. The pro shop guy drew it back to have me mark it figuring that noch to rest would be the same for everyone. When he did that I marked the arrow at the rest and had him "add an inch" for safety. However when he pulled back he used a three finger below the loop hold which changed the angle of the string, when I draw back with a release, the angle changed enough to make my one inch safey measure right on the edge of my draw because the two holding methods changed the angle of the string and the nocks distance in relation to the arrow. Better?
    yup makes perfect sense

    I stick by my original assessment of you need new arrows
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dredly View Post
    yup makes perfect sense

    I stick by my original assessment of you need new arrows
    I agree you need new arrows.....
    I cut things up and split them down!

  20. #20
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    that's what I thought. I'm a little dissappointed, I got a little more speed out of the shorter arrows 3-4" seems to be to much over the rest. Accuracy inproved dramaticly. Idk why but I guess I"ll be looking at new arrows hopefully they won't make me pay for the mistake.

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