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  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Cleveland,NC
    Posts
    183

    Default Setting up an arrow rest for hunting

    Before anyone takes this as a "How To" thread by me. I am posting this method of how I do it. . I would much appreciate any input on better or different ways to tune an arrow rest.

    What I am trying to achieve is that shots will print in a target, at all yardages, without varying left or right. In layman terms, your shots should not fall right, or, left as yardages change.

    This test is based on the presumption that you are using a compound bow with a rest that has horizontal/windage adjustment. And, your sight has a level to insure consistant vertical alignment. And, your bow is properly tuned and the nocking point is good. Also, I start out with field points the same weight as my broadheads.

    Here goes......

    I start out testing at 10 yards. (I use my 30 yard pin. Do not adjust your sights after you start the test. If you use fixed pins, shoot the same pin thru out the test. Depending on your set up, you may need to change which pin you shoot from. But, shoot from the same pin thru out the test.) I then shoot a group of 3-6 shots. I mark that group.

    Then I step back to 20 yards. I shoot another group. I mark those.

    Then back to 30 yards. Same deal.

    Then back to 40 yards. Same deal.

    If the groups are straying to the left as the yardage increases, I move the rest to the right. If to the right, I move the rest to the left. I repeat this process until I get all my groups to line up vertically. Here again, you never adjust the sights during the test.

    You may have to adjust the sights to keep yourself on the target. If so, start the test again.

    In my opinion, once you have all your groups in vertical alignment, you have the rest centered to your bow's string travel. The broadheads are next.

    I shoot fixed blade broadheads. I have yet to get them to print in the same group as the field points. Anyone have some tips on that?
    Take a kid with you. Show them the Great Outdoors. Pass it on.

  2. #2

    Default

    Good post for the walkback tuning method.

    Broadheads can be done in similar fashion. Minor rest adjustments to get the field points and broadheads together.

    If the field points and broadheads hit high and low or left and right. Pick one direction and fix that first. If the broadhead hits low move the rest up or the nocking point down.

    On the left to right, I have seen conflicting information when doing this. If I remember this right. If the broadhead hits to the left move the rest in to the right.

    Remember, these are very minor adjustments. Also, if the spread gets larger, do the opposite movement.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    N.Illinios
    Posts
    309

    Default broadhead tuning.

    I do the same method as described for tuning as well,once it is time to go strickly broadheads,it is even a trickier delema.
    I tried my hardest to get the broadheads to fly as the same as the feildpoints.most feildpoints 9 out of ten of them are made like junk and do not spin on a arrow checker to say to save your life as strait.
    There are so many various reasons that for some reasons they don't and will not cooperate to be as the same(feildpoints and broadheads grouping the same).....
    theoretically,they should.
    Vanes....
    I tried starting out with 2.3"quickspins and surely they do definately work.but....
    for some reason my broadheads went flying left 3" at even 20.
    I tried tweeking the rest inevitably to death by fractions of a millimeter to no evail.
    I went to regular vanes and walla,only 1" left at 60 yards.obviously not enough vane on there,spinning or not to correct the flight or planing.
    I use a arrow checker (spinner)as well as
    I think arrow preperation makes a world of difference.I use that g5 straitening tool,and it is a almost must for all of us if you do your own.
    I know only one shop who uses it on all there arrows,and it is the one I go to.
    I rest on knowing that I did them up as good as they can get,and there is no uneasy confidence of if my arrows are true or not come crunch time.
    Some arrows spine are so much stiffer or less stiff as the companys next size chart required for a certain poundage in drawweight and getting the right arrow for your setup can be a maddening and costly ordeal.
    It is hit or miss with these modern high speed compounds to say what is the best arrow at a borderline spine recommendation,whether Easton/Carbon express/Goldtip ect. ect. but,I beleive the right arrow with the right spine with the right vanes can make them fly the same.
    I know that sometimes feathers on certain shafts seem to make it happen with certain broadheads.
    I guess by not trying to confuse anyone or making this a rocket science ordeal,I am saying this to to make it as simple as some of us do understand.
    If your broadheads do not fly the same as your feildpoints,try to make them do so,by changing the vanes or even nocks as simple as it may sound.
    A rest issue,how it opperates as well as overdraws and length,can be adjusted.most use about a inch for broadheads/some find it by cutting there arrows till they group...
    If you don't get them to do so,it may take different arrows in spine surely,but,at most deer being shot at less than 30 yards,even a .006 arrow will work for most hunters.
    I would make sure that you are sighted in the best you can,period,the cost can be lost sleep for weeks if you don't.

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