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Thread: Two questions

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    Default Two questions

    First question. For a right handed shoot what helaca do you want on your fletchings left or right?
    Second question what are your opions on winners choice strings and cables? I put a set on my switch back. I thought these things were pre-streched . to put it simple they have streched two times on me and I have to tune my bow again . I am not impressed with them.

    Mo.Hick

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    Senior Member 'SIN'ERGY's Avatar
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    A lot of times it is not that the string is stretching it is just settling into the grooves of the cams. Every string will stretch a little bit.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MO.HICK View Post
    First question. For a right handed shoot what helaca do you want on your fletchings left or right?
    Second question what are your opions on winners choice strings and cables? I put a set on my switch back. I thought these things were pre-streched . to put it simple they have streched two times on me and I have to tune my bow again . I am not impressed with them.

    Mo.Hick
    For right handed shooters I think you want right helical or right offset. I use blazers so straight works fine.

    WC strings I have heard are great but as already stated by synergy the string will need to settle. If you want different strings I'd suggest Custom Cody Strings.


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MO.HICK View Post
    First question. For a right handed shoot what helaca do you want on your fletchings left or right?
    Second question what are your opions on winners choice strings and cables? I put a set on my switch back. I thought these things were pre-streched . to put it simple they have streched two times on me and I have to tune my bow again . I am not impressed with them.

    Mo.Hick
    I don't know the philosophy between left and right fletching... That's always puzzled me.

    I have Winner's Choice on my Allegiance and I have not had any issues. I recently put a set of Vaportrails on my Ovation and I have not had any issues with those either. Maybe you got a bad string/cable set ? If I were you I would try their Costomer Service. They say they pride themselves on customer satiusfaction. Why not test them with your dilemma ?

    Ron

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    Quote Originally Posted by BowhuntnHoosier View Post
    For right handed shooters I think you want right helical or right offset. I use blazers so straight works fine.

    WC strings I have heard are great but as already stated by synergy the string will need to settle. If you want different strings I'd suggest Custom Cody Strings.
    I also shoot blazers. I didnt think about doing a straight fletching. How well does your arrow stablize. I shoot around 290 fps.

    Mo.Hick

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    Quote Originally Posted by MO.HICK View Post
    I also shoot blazers. I didnt think about doing a straight fletching. How well does your arrow stablize. I shoot around 290 fps.

    Mo.Hick
    If your bow is tuned properly and you have the right spine arrow it will stabilize just fine with straight fletch. I shoot a straight fletch with my Synergy and it shoots 312FPS. The arrow flies fine at that speed.
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    Prodigal Son jcmorgan31's Avatar
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    Left/right helical or offest fletching is more critical when shooting with fingers or shooting traditional equipment. If you're using a release and a rest, it should not matter which you use....
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    are u a fat boy? kbohunt's Avatar
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    Default bow tuning

    One of the basic procedure's on arrow flight is you allway's want to put a little spin on your arrow, unless your shooting indoor's where it dosnt matter no wind,rain thermals or moisture to shoot through.
    Always remember this rule: your arrow should allway's turn into your bow.
    right hand turns right into your risor or clock-wise,left hand to the left.
    Stright is ok for 4 inch or smaller vane's or feather's.
    I am right hand & use 4in right offset which is offset to the right in set degree's for more or less spin.
    Indoor set-up 1& 3/4 in stright for no friction,spin & more speed.
    If an arrow spin's to fast it creates friction & will loose speed down range.
    Hope this helped.
    kbohunt

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    Quote Originally Posted by kbohunt View Post
    One of the basic procedure's on arrow flight is you allway's want to put a little spin on your arrow, unless your shooting indoor's where it dosnt matter no wind,rain thermals or moisture to shoot through.
    Always remember this rule: your arrow should allway's turn into your bow.
    right hand turns right into your risor or clock-wise,left hand to the left.
    Stright is ok for 4 inch or smaller vane's or feather's.
    I am right hand & use 4in right offset which is offset to the right in set degree's for more or less spin.
    Indoor set-up 1& 3/4 in stright for no friction,spin & more speed.
    If an arrow spin's to fast it creates friction & will loose speed down range.
    Hope this helped.
    so then it would better to use the real small aae plastifletch then a quickspin??
    I cut things up and split them down!

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    Default quick spin

    Quote Originally Posted by BOWMAN View Post
    so then it would better to use the real small aae plastifletch then a quickspin??
    I think An arrow should spin,the more the better at say 35yds or less in a hunting situation, high wind rain,speed's not a real factor.
    no one care's if your shooting 290 with stright or 286 with hard turning helical like quick spins.
    The only time it is an issue is if your out to say 50yds the more spin the faster your arrow slow's down.
    but with the fast bow's today all over 275 its not to much a factor.
    If you shoot an older bow around say 225-250 & you shoot plastifletch out to 50yds say for elk hunter's & change to quick-spins they will have to reset there 50yd pin.
    kbohunt

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    Senior Member Holy Smokes's Avatar
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    Shootin feathers they will parachute on ya startin around 35 yds. this means they lay down and stand up. vanes don't.

    also move yore fletchins as close ta tha back of tha shaft for faster flight. I usually stay about 1/2" away. Tips fer(for) ya fellars complinmentary of Smokes



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    Quote Originally Posted by MO.HICK View Post
    I also shoot blazers. I didnt think about doing a straight fletching. How well does your arrow stablize. I shoot around 290 fps.

    Mo.Hick
    My arrows fly great at 276fps. With straight Blazers.


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    Quote Originally Posted by kbohunt View Post
    One of the basic procedure's on arrow flight is you allway's want to put a little spin on your arrow, unless your shooting indoor's where it dosnt matter no wind,rain thermals or moisture to shoot through.
    Always remember this rule: your arrow should allway's turn into your bow.
    right hand turns right into your risor or clock-wise,left hand to the left.
    Stright is ok for 4 inch or smaller vane's or feather's.
    I am right hand & use 4in right offset which is offset to the right in set degree's for more or less spin.
    Indoor set-up 1& 3/4 in stright for no friction,spin & more speed.
    If an arrow spin's to fast it creates friction & will loose speed down range.
    Hope this helped.

    If you are shooting a modern arrow rest with a release, this makes no difference.

    Also, If you shoot 2 bare shafts; one spinning at 50 rpm and one at 10 rpm, I'm about 99% sure they will fly at the same speed. Rotation should not cause friction. However, if you put more angle on your fletchings to gain this additional rotation, the fletchings themselves will have more drag and therefore slow down arrow flight.

    I'm also not sure why you would set up your indoor arrows to have speed at the cost of stability. At a known (not to mention short) distance of 20 yards, speed is of very little importance. What is important is stable consistent arrow flight. My indoor arrows are Easton Eclipse X-7s that weigh in around 450g. They are fletched straight offset with 4" feathers. They are extremely slow (around 220fps) out of my 55lb Ovation, but very consistent and stable.

    On the flip side, my 3D arrows are 330g shot out of a 66lb bow. They are fletched with mini-blazers that produce very little drag. They do however spin the arrow at a high rate of speed which gains back stability. This allows them to travel at 298fps which makes up for my lack of yardage judging skillls.

    I'm not saying your set ups are wrong and maybe I just misread your info, but they seemed backwards to me.....
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    Please allow me to hijack this thread.

    I'm all set on hunting arrows and I was getting arrows for 3D & indoors. Now obviously there's so many arrow choices out there it's staggering, but I think I've decided on Easton Cobalts.

    I will be shooting them out of a LH Commander (if this beast actually exists as mine "shipped" last week.........right, LOL). So assuming I have the correct spine, etc. what do you guys suggest as far as fletchings and/or helical?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sammy PSU View Post
    Please allow me to hijack this thread.

    I'm all set on hunting arrows and I was getting arrows for 3D & indoors. Now obviously there's so many arrow choices out there it's staggering, but I think I've decided on Easton Cobalts.

    I will be shooting them out of a LH Commander (if this beast actually exists as mine "shipped" last week.........right, LOL). So assuming I have the correct spine, etc. what do you guys suggest as far as fletchings and/or helical?
    I personally would fletch them with 2" Blazers or mini-blazers. I would also fletch them straight with a slight offset. They would be done right hand offset because that is what my bitz is set to although the direction of offset should not matter.

    You will find there are probably more choices regarding fletchings than there are arrows..... For 3D and hunting I like to maintain as much speed as possible. Therefore I use a small plastic fletching that produces less drag while maintaining stability.

    If I were building arrows to use for indoor, I would use 4" feathers. Feathers tend to provide more stability. They do produce a lot of drag, but speed isn't a factor indoors. I fletch my feathers straight with a right hand offest also. They would work fine helical also. Left or right should not matter.

    Good luck with your decision....
    Last edited by jcmorgan31; 04-24-2007 at 11:24 AM.
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    Default backwards

    Quote Originally Posted by jcmorgan31 View Post
    If you are shooting a modern arrow rest with a release, this makes no difference.

    Also, If you shoot 2 bare shafts; one spinning at 50 rpm and one at 10 rpm, I'm about 99% sure they will fly at the same speed. Rotation should not cause friction. However, if you put more angle on your fletchings to gain this additional rotation, the fletchings themselves will have more drag and therefore slow down arrow flight.

    I'm also not sure why you would set up your indoor arrows to have speed at the cost of stability. At a known (not to mention short) distance of 20 yards, speed is of very little importance. What is important is stable consistent arrow flight. My indoor arrows are Easton Eclipse X-7s that weigh in around 450g. They are fletched straight offset with 4" feathers. They are extremely slow (around 220fps) out of my 55lb Ovation, but very consistent and stable.

    On the flip side, my 3D arrows are 330g shot out of a 66lb bow. They are fletched with mini-blazers that produce very little drag. They do however spin the arrow at a high rate of speed which gains back stability. This allows them to travel at 298fps which makes up for my lack of yardage judging skillls.

    I'm not saying your set ups are wrong and maybe I just misread your info, but they seemed backwards to me.....
    Jc when i started shooting & working on bow's was 25years ago i got most of my information from books by terry ragsdales,indoor compitive compitition,fred bear's archers bible,howard hill the bowman etc.
    All these books are old archers that said Your arrow should allways turn into your bow.
    You dont have to set it up this way if you dont want to & maybe it dosnt matter today with technology & drop-away rest but to the average archer who you dont know there set-up,you need to tell them the basic's
    Take a button rest that not many people use any more shoot left helicle with plasti vane's off it. I have you cant tune it. Now feathers they fold back no problem. helicle does matter to me!

    Next: If you have put more helical on an arrow say to produce: 40 more rpms & it slows down isnt that friction?
    It's been tested threw long range crono's at 50yds that an arrow shot from the same bow same arrow is alot slower when adding a harder degree of helical!!! Drag is friction! An added rotation is creating friction or what you call drag!
    Last edited by kbohunt; 04-24-2007 at 08:58 PM.
    kbohunt

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    Thanks for all the re-plys. It looks like everybody has their own idea on this. I am always looking for learning new things that could make me better at what I love to do. I will try different ways and let you know what I feel is the best for me. As I can not leave well enough alone.

    Mo.Hick

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    As far as I've been able to tell the only difference between using left helical and right helical is that your tips will unscrew when they hit the target if you use right and they won't if you use left.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dredly View Post
    As far as I've been able to tell the only difference between using left helical and right helical is that your tips will unscrew when they hit the target if you use right and they won't if you use left.
    Never thought of that. That's kind of funny...

    Ron

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    Quote Originally Posted by kbohunt View Post
    Jc when i started shooting & working on bow's was 25years ago i got most of my information from books by terry ragsdales,indoor compitive compitition,fred bear's archers bible,howard hill the bowman etc.
    All these books are old archers that said Your arrow should allways turn into your bow.
    You dont have to set it up this way if you dont want to & maybe it dosnt matter today with technology & drop-away rest but to the average archer who you dont know there set-up,you need to tell them the basic's
    Take a button rest that not many people use any more shoot left helicle with plasti vane's off it. I have you cant tune it. Now feathers they fold back no problem. helicle does matter to me!

    Next: If you have put more helical on an arrow say to produce: 40 more rpms & it slows down isnt that friction?
    It's been tested threw long range crono's at 50yds that an arrow shot from the same bow same arrow is alot slower when adding a harder degree of helical!!! Drag is friction! An added rotation is creating friction or what you call drag!
    If your information is coming from books that you read 25 yrs ago, then I would say you need to give a guy the "basics" based on current technology. There are a lot of guys that know a lot of stuff about archery. Unfortunately, they learned it long ago and have not updated their personal information. I feel like I know quite a lot of information about archery and I just started a few years ago. I guarantee you this guy isn't shootin a button off his riser and telling him he needs to fletch right or left helical based on that isn't doing him any favors. What if the guy only owns one clamp, and because you tell him something based on 25yr old information, he goes out and drops $35 on a new clamp that he never needed? I told him that if he is using a modern rest and a release that it doesn't matter. I didn't tell him it didn't matter if he is using a button.

    fric·tion /ˈfrɪkʃən/ noun
    1. surface resistance to relative motion, as of a body sliding or rolling.
    2. the rubbing of the surface of one body against that of another.

    drag /dræg/ verb, dragged, drag·ging, noun, adjective
    –verb (used with object)

    20. Aeronautics. the aerodynamic force exerted on an airfoil, airplane, or other aerodynamic body that tends to reduce its forward motion.

    Drag slows an arrow unless it is sliding across the floor, then it is friction. Drag acts on the fletchings, not the shaft. The angle of your fletchings increases or decreases drag.
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