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Old 12-30-2011, 10:18 AM   #1
alaz
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Default blade vs limb driven drop away

I currently shoot a limb driver and love it, but was thinking of going back to a blade. I picked up a used blade and was looking at it and realized the diameter shafts I use will cause fletching contact at the base of the vane.

Are blades more forgiving...more accurate is what I really mean, and how do you adjust for this contact? The more I look at it the more I lean toward a limb driver or limb driven rest.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:38 PM   #2
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i like my limbdriver rest its not micro adjust but when i get it locked down i am good to go. i just wish they had that feature on it. It would make walk back tuning a lot easier
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:53 PM   #3
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That small amount of contact is normal. Make sure to use it **** feather up, eyeball and don't worry about it, do you think reo wilde doesnt have any contact with his super thin X10's? (if thats the arrow he still uses lol).
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:24 AM   #4
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The liz is the way to go but has some limitations. Just got done setting up a couple of TripWire drop aways with my home-made version of a 50% containment liz and took them out for a test ride tonite.......NICE!!!!

Gonna use them for everything from now on!!!!

Last edited by MickeyBee; 12-31-2011 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:54 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MickeyBee View Post
The liz is the way to go but has some limitations. Just got done setting up a couple of TripWire drop aways with my home-made version of a 50% containment liz and took them out for a test ride tonite.......NICE!!!!

Gonna use them for everything from now on!!!!
I liked the trip wire...I just felt that I would get inconsistent contact every so often.
I would love to see pics of what you did.
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Old 12-31-2011, 11:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alaz View Post
I would love to see pics of what you did.
A lot of banging the back end of a .2" drill on a piece of .020" full hard SS spring steel into a block of wood followed by some perimeter work curtesy of a cheap drum sander mounted in a drill press and then slotted with a dremmel diamond c/o tool. Last major step was to cut off the buisness end of the old launcher with the remainder to be used as a clamp. Played with the slot (and V cut) till it felt like it had the same resistance as my Pro Tuner spring.
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MickeyBee View Post
The liz is the way to go but has some limitations. Just got done setting up a couple of TripWire drop aways with my home-made version of a 50% containment liz and took them out for a test ride tonite.......NICE!!!!

Gonna use them for everything from now on!!!!
Actually, thats not true anymore. Had one break tonite.

Back to the drawing board.......
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:39 PM   #8
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Tripwire? I have seen more than a few problems with that rest

Dan


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Actually, thats not true anymore. Had one break tonite.

Back to the drawing board.......
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The G View Post
That small amount of contact is normal. Make sure to use it **** feather up, eyeball and don't worry about it, do you think reo wilde doesnt have any contact with his super thin X10's? (if thats the arrow he still uses lol).
I am sure he gets contact as do all the pros...yet this is what they choose. I just wonder what makes them more "consistent" then a limbdriver. I think it would be very difficult to have the same type of contact shot after shot, arrow after arrow. If vanes are slightly off, nocks not perfect aligned, etc. I just think a drop away that uses a blade (pro-drop/ limb driver) would be more forgiving.

Last edited by alaz; 12-31-2011 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:07 AM   #10
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Like the G said....if you setup a blade rest and your arrow correctly that amount of contact is not a factor. In fact if you set it up correctly you shouldn't or won't have the contact that your appears that it is going to have.

I have NEVER had a setup with a dropaway on it that was as forgiving or shot as good as a well tuned and setup bow with a blade rest on it. They shot good...but they aren't as forgiving and I can make a blade setup shoot tighter groups.
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkersonhunter View Post
i like my limbdriver rest its not micro adjust but when i get it locked down i am good to go. i just wish they had that feature on it. It would make walk back tuning a lot easier
That is why I am thinking of trying out the Pro Drop AAE. Still debating though.
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:10 AM   #12
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I'm with Dan, my Limbdriver has served me well in both hunting and tournaments throughout the years! And you don't have worry about the wind with them. As far as which is better, try them both and see what you like! I honestly think it is a preference thing and what your equipment likes.

Good luck on you decision!
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:05 PM   #13
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Removed my limb driver and put my doodle game dropper on set the spring
so it holds the arrow up at full draw seems to work fine i think i will stick with the the kentucky made rest.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowTech DAve View Post
I'm with Dan, my Limbdriver has served me well in both hunting and tournaments throughout the years! And you don't have worry about the wind with them. As far as which is better, try them both and see what you like! I honestly think it is a preference thing and what your equipment likes.

Good luck on you decision!
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You guys need to get over the wind thing with a blade rest....shoot the correct blade and draw your bow under control and correctly and drawing the bow with a blade isn't an issue even in the wind..... Otherwise all the videos on YouTube of the FITA shoots would be nothing but people fighting to get their bows drawn back.

If you like a drop away that's great...good for you. But don't blame a rest for shooter issues.


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Old 01-14-2012, 10:17 AM   #15
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I use a limb driver on both my tournement bow and my hunting bow and have not had a problem with either one. Can't go wrong with Vaportrail rests.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:12 AM   #16
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Very interesting points from both sides here. I've never used a blade rest enough to get completely comfortable with one. I do like limbdriver rests. Have them on all but one of my bows and I plan to put the pro v on my hunting rig this year. Maybe someday I'll take the time and set up a now correctly with a blade rest. I understand the advantage to one. But for now I'll stick withy limbdrivers. They've been easy to set up and I have never had any issues with them
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paheadhunter View Post
Very interesting points from both sides here. I've never used a blade rest enough to get completely comfortable with one. I do like limbdriver rests. Have them on all but one of my bows and I plan to put the pro v on my hunting rig this year. Maybe someday I'll take the time and set up a now correctly with a blade rest. I understand the advantage to one. But for now I'll stick withy limbdrivers. They've been easy to set up and I have never had any issues with them
It seems to me that the people that has used the limb driver rest has had no problems with them so why would a person want to change something that isnt broke? I like my limb driver rest for both 3d and hunting. simple to use and set up
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:07 AM   #18
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Most folks that run into problems with the arrows falling off of the blades are either running to weak of a blade or they have it set up to flat.
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:21 PM   #19
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we've had Limbdrivers and they are great, until they fail. Hub had one fail at a tournament, now he only uses a launcher - either a Trophy taker ss pro or the Spot Hog Edge. But on his hunting rig is still a limbdriver.
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:43 PM   #20
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What kind of failures have you experienced. Just curious

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we've had Limbdrivers and they are great, until they fail. Hub had one fail at a tournament, now he only uses a launcher - either a Trophy taker ss pro or the Spot Hog Edge. But on his hunting rig is still a limbdriver.
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