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Old 08-14-2008, 06:50 PM   #1
QSA
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Default Arrow fletching for novice

1. First clean the end of the shaft with a good cleaner. I use Acetone. It cleans and dries fast.

Here is a good view of a straight and right hand helix clamp.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:34 PM   #2
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2. This is a grayling jig. You adjust the offset by loosening the 2 knobs and set the offset. Then tighten down the knobs.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:34 PM   #3
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3. On my jig it has a shaft indexer. So set it to the shaft size, Insert the split in the nock with the nock and fletching indexer.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:35 PM   #4
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On the side of the Grayling clamps there is a scale. Pick how far down you want your vanes and use that make on all 3 vanes.

4. Slip the vane all the way into the clamp to the gluing flange.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:36 PM   #5
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5. I use goat tuff glue. I dab a few drops down the vane.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:37 PM   #6
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6. Then use the edge of the bottle to spread the glue even. When doing it this way it takes very little glue. A little goes a long way.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:37 PM   #7
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7. Butt the end of the clamp against the nock receiver.

8. Slide the clamp down the magnet until the vane is all the way down. Some times a little glue will come out from under the vane.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:38 PM   #8
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9. I wait 30 seconds and remove the clamp slowly.

10. Rotate the nock receiver to the next stop.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:39 PM   #9
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11. Repeat steps 6, 7, 8,9, and10

12. Dab a drop of glue on the front of each vane.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:40 PM   #10
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Here are a few other pics of the finished arrow.
Feathers fletch the same but you have to let the glue dry a little more.
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:59 AM   #11
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Here is a link to a question thread if you have any. I will be more then happy to help.
http://www.3dshoots.com/forums/showt...543#post185543
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:36 AM   #12
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I wouldn't fletch with 4 inch vanes or without pants on..but you have the general technique down.

I took a board, like a 2X8, 3 feet long and screwed in some screws to hold the stand, works like a charm.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slippy View Post
I wouldn't fletch with 4 inch vanes or without pants on..but you have the general technique down.

I took a board, like a 2X8, 3 feet long and screwed in some screws to hold the stand, works like a charm.
ok this is not a thread for your dumb comments slippy. I have shorts on. People want to learn that is what it is for.
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Old 11-01-2008, 03:05 AM   #14
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Helpful post. Thanks, QSA.
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
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ok this is not a thread for your dumb comments slippy. I have shorts on. People want to learn that is what it is for.
Yeah but his comment about mounting the jig to a board is good advice and makes for a more stable work platform. I used a 1x4 about 10" long (a piece of scrap laying in my workshop) and put some felt pads on the bottom to keep from scratching work surfaces.

Ron
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:06 AM   #16
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Thanks for the tip! I'm always looking for a new method to do anything.
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:18 AM   #17
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Nice write up... I have the same jig..thou must be a older version... it does not have that arrrow index wheel. mounted mine to a board
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:07 PM   #18
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Thanks for the good info!
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:36 AM   #19
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Question

I've seen some people take a piece of sand paper to scuff the carbon shaft before putting vanes on, is this necessary?

Last edited by Christopher67; 04-04-2011 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:06 AM   #20
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Quote:
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I've seen some people take a piece of sand paper to scuff the carbon shaft before putting vanes on, is this necessary?
I use scotch brite pads......
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:32 AM   #21
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Quote:
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I use scotch brite pads......

Yea thats what i meant sorry lol Its ok to do this without harming the arrow?
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:20 AM   #22
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Do you glue in your nocks?

Do you clean the vanes with the cleaner?
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:28 AM   #23
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New to the forums. Thanks for the posting, I have all the equipment for fletching but just a little itimidated by the process. I'm going to give it a go this weekend.

-Craig
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:57 PM   #24
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I tried it and it isn't that hard. I wish I made the decision to try it sooner.
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Old 05-24-2011, 09:39 AM   #25
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Use good old dish soap and water to clean your arrows. Acetone and some alcohols leave a film on the arrows and can also break down carbon fibers. Dish soap will remove any oils from your finger on the arrows or any film on the arrows. I have been making arrow far over 45 year ans have not had any problems. Try it and then fill the arrow and see how squeaky clean they get and no film period
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:19 AM   #26
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I've always added a little dab of glue to the front and back of the fletch
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:32 PM   #27
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Default Nice Review

Great how to, with photos to boot.

I too am a proponent of using acetone if the vanes are not pre treated at the factory with a bonding agent.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:43 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowdoc1 View Post
Use good old dish soap and water to clean your arrows. Acetone and some alcohols leave a film on the arrows and can also break down carbon fibers. Dish soap will remove any oils from your finger on the arrows or any film on the arrows. I have been making arrow far over 45 year ans have not had any problems. Try it and then fill the arrow and see how squeaky clean they get and no film period
well maybe that's what I'm doing wrong, not cleaning them properly. All I've been doing is scraping all residue from the old wrecked fletching then gluing the new ones on. Was thinking that I had a bad tube of glue or something. Had three arrows lose fletchings at a provincial target shoot this weekend. I'm using fletch-tite glue on 4" Duravanes. At first I thought I wasn't using enough glue but increased the amount of glue being used and it didn't make any difference
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowdoc1 View Post
Use good old dish soap and water to clean your arrows. Acetone and some alcohols leave a film on the arrows and can also break down carbon fibers. Dish soap will remove any oils from your finger on the arrows or any film on the arrows. I have been making arrow far over 45 year ans have not had any problems. Try it and then fill the arrow and see how squeaky clean they get and no film period
Using acetone sparingly with a quick wipe down and dry with a soft cloth on a clean bare shaft, or after scraping off all the glue does not seem to harm the carbon shafts as many carbon shafts seem to have a very thin coating on them. You can see the coating as it gives off a sheen when held to the light. I have used acetone for years with no carbon issues. Using soap and water may also work, but soap can leave a film is not cleaned meticulously from the shaft. Acetone evaporates almost immediately,and interacting with the glues seems to be okay.

I guess bottom line is whatever works, use it.

While some swear by goat tuff, here in Canada it is like $13.00 for a one ounce tube and crazy glue is the same thing only cheaper. These will certainly bond your vanes instantly like no other, including your multijig arms, fingers, your cat if she jumps on the table and paws at the glue tip when you are in the process of gluing your points etc.

Oh yeah, wash your hands with plenty of hot soapy water before going to the washroom, a wad of toilet paper stuck to your hands or your wedding tackle adhered permanently to your fingers is not pretty, when the girlfriend wonders why your screaming behind the bathroom door.
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