How to cut arrows and best glue?

[newmission]

I've had my eye on some GT Expedition Hunters with vanes at a local sporting goods store ready to cut. The place has a saw but the manager refuses to buy a new wheel for the thing. I'm not in the market to buy a saw, but do have a dremel!

Any jig for setup ideas to cut carbon arrows with a dremel? Maybe use a couple machining V-blocks? Or is it a bad idea all together?

Also any good cheap glues to use? I've read about CA+ and Goat Tuff? And any prep before glue?

Thanks ya'll!

[armyof1]

dremal not a good idea i use locktite super glue and i clean the inside of the arrow with fingernail polish remover and a q-tip

[MickeyBee]

Originally Posted by newmission

....Also any good cheap glues to use?

I've tried some relatively expensive glues and have come to the conclusion that the second you open the bottle the clock starts ticking. I'm thinking that they purge the bottles with an inert gas to extend shelf life and, over time, the oxygen degrades the contents. Got tired of throwing away half a bottle at a crack. I now buy the cheapest glue you can get at Wall-Mart. It comes in a package of 4, 0.11oz tubes and it's called "Super Glue" (black tubes with white lettering). I am currently shooting feathers and Fusion vanes with absolutely no problem. Make sure you prep your arrows correctly and give it a shot.

[armyof1]

locktight superglue is a gel no runny messand it only a few bucks @ walmart in the hardware section

[newmission]

Good call on the good glues! I like the idea of the gels and Walmart!

But still stuck on how to cut these things. Is there really something about 8,000rpms that cuts an arrow any cleaner than 35,000rpms of a dremel?

I mean if I can set up a straight cut, we should be all good right?

[longcut36]

you can make a good cutoff saw with a dremel. it depends on how much time you want to put into it. slap it together and you have junk. for points and inserts I use a hot melt low temp glue. it will flex enough so it wont break loose like super glue will. never had a point come out with hot melt. also points are easy to get out if you want to change them.

[newmission]

Now when you say "hot melt", that's the regular stick like hot glue for crafts right? Or no?

[Gator eye]

Originally Posted by longcut36

you can make a good cutoff saw with a dremel. it depends on how much time you want to put into it. slap it together and you have junk. for points and inserts I use a hot melt low temp glue. it will flex enough so it wont break loose like super glue will. never had a point come out with hot melt. also points are easy to get out if you want to change them.

Yeap, I have used a dremel too. for me they turned out just a tad off center but I squared them up with a G5 ASD and in the end it was all good.

I prefer hot glue for tips too, easy to remove if you have tom, but never lost a tip on accident.

[armyof1]

with the gel locktight i have had great sucess with if you need to remove the insurt just heat the tip and the glue melts

[kbohunt]

ill tell ya some trick's
before i got a cutoff saw for a year when carbon 1st came out i was cutting carbon/graphite arrows with a hacksaw..lol..no joke...you can determine the length..wrap electric tape around all your arrows about 3-4 times tight..mark with whiteout like for typeing. put in a vise not too tight just to hold..cut in a stright line a couple strokes will pop it off...cut about 1/8 inch longer than u want. take the tape off....take a sanding block or just hold a piece of sand paper on a bench or board and sand down in a circular motion until you get the right length..its really fast i do a doz..in like 5 min..you really dont need a saw..and glue..goat tuff all i use...if you dont have 100buxs for a saw heres a trick that really works..kenny

[armyof1]

cool good to know in a pinch situation

[TomT]

Originally Posted by newmission

I've had my eye on some GT Expedition Hunters with vanes at a local sporting goods store ready to cut. The place has a saw but the manager refuses to buy a new wheel for the thing. I'm not in the market to buy a saw, but do have a dremel!

Any jig for setup ideas to cut carbon arrows with a dremel? Maybe use a couple machining V-blocks? Or is it a bad idea all together?

Also any good cheap glues to use? I've read about CA+ and Goat Tuff? And any prep before glue?

Thanks ya'll!

I was gonna buy an arrow saw, till I tried my bandsaw. If you have one, just make a sliding jig to fit your miter slot and support the arrow along the first
6" or so, and a piece of stock longer than the arrow with a clamp for repetive cuts. Wrap the cut site in blue painters tape, and another a few inches down so the shaft will lay straight on the jig. I use a Timberwolf 1/4" 8 TPI blade, and it makes clean cuts with no splintering because of the tape. DO NOT use a table or miter saw. I tried both, so take my word for it.
Hot melt glue for the point inserts. CCA for the nock inserts. Be sure and chamfer the cut sites a little with a CS or other chamfering tool.

[SandSquid]

I got this years "Competition" arrows in for the family (2 dozen Victory NanoForce V1 and 2 Dozen Victory X-RingerHV V1) and I'm so very glad I purchased my own Arrow Saw. I'm waiting on another 2 dozen and then I'm going to mix up a batch of HIT epoxy and glue in the Nib Points..

So, if you pay postage both ways (ZIP 38134) I'd be happy to cut them to lenght, and epoxy the inserts in for you, no charge... I hate to waste that epoxy and it only takes me about 15 seconds per arrow to cut.

Same goes for anybody else here.

Glue day is planned for the Friday after Thanksgiving....
Arrows will be back in the mail 30NOV

[newmission]

Hey thanks for all the advise and tricks of the trade!

I ended up bring a wheel to the shop and they cut my arrows. But I think I'll cut them myself with a dremel next time.

When home and plugged in the hot glue gun, and cleaned all my arrows and inserts with some acetone. Got all ready with with glue and slapped some on the insert and put it in place. Well.....half way in place! Then spent another half hour picking the glue off that cooled before the insert was all the way in place! Needless to say, I hopped in the car and went to walmart to get some locktite super glue gel. Slapped my inserts in the proper orientation with the vanes and was ready to go! I liked the way the super glue seemed to soak into the carbon around the tip. Perhaps a little less likely to splinter any loose fibers.

[keb73]

Here's a hint on the glue..Store it in the fridge..

[armyof1]

i do the same thing . i keep mine in the shelf with the door on it

[J.Blay]

I bought a "Mini cut off saw" off ebay for about $30. It works amazingly well and squares the arrow accurately. I have a G5 squaring tool and it has never improved my arrow flight, even with broadheads. As far as prep for inserts, I use a 270 cal. brass bore brush on a coardless drill for the inside of the arrow shaft. Then I blow the dust out and clean it with Qtips and 99% rubbing alcohol until the Qtip remains white. Before fletching, I scrub the shaft with scouring powder on a green scotch bright pad. I thoroughly rinse it under hot water and wipe with a clean towel. Then I do a final 99% rubbing alcohol wipe with a clean paper towel and allow it to dry before fletching. The scouring powder made a real differance in the bond over just sanding. Within reason, I don't believe glue brand matters much.

[armyof1]

cool tips to put into the files in the brain

[bowtecbowhunter]

Here's a way in which you [might not have thought of] can cut and keep a nice clean cut.[IMG][/IMG] Never mind the other stuff in the pic that was for another project.

[armyof1]

but that doesnt work on carbon though

[longcut36]

Originally Posted by newmission

Now when you say "hot melt", that's the regular stick like hot glue for crafts right? Or no?

right. I bought a pack of 12 at BIG LOTS for 2.00

[SandSquid]

right. I bought a pack of 12 at BIG LOTS for 2.00

No, it is not the same stuff.

Believe me, I'm a cheap bastard (frugal) and I've tried using the hot glue from my wife's craft gun, and even the "High temperature" glue for my Industrial Black & Decker glue gun. it will eventually let go on you.

I've had to sit and completely empty the stuffing out of several bag targets to find the points and inserts that pulled out, after trying to "be cheap" and use these glues on the aluminum shafts the kids in my youth group shoot. I thought with 10 dozen arrows I could save some money, wrong.


Get the glue designed for the job. And a small bottle of propane and a torch head. Total investment for a lifetime of inserts is under $20.00 and it will never "go bad" on you.



Note: if you need pliers or gloves to hold the point you are getting it too hot.

• Heat the end of the glue bar with the propone torch.
• Apply hot melt all around the insert and set aside.
• Do all your inserts.
• Lightly heat the end of the arrow shaft. 10 seconds is plenty.
• Holding the point, dip the insert end into the flame for 5 seconds until the glue softens and gets runny. Remember, if you burn your finger tips on the point you are getting it too hot.
• With one continuous motion place the insert into the end of the arrow shaft and twist and push until fully seated. I do this against a hard surface like the edge of my workbench. You will (should) get squeeze out, be careful not to let it dribble on your hands!
• Allow to cool, and then remove excess.

[armyof1]

i think i will stick with the locktight gel super glue , it has worked for me with no problems . (if it aint broke dont fix it )

[TomT]

Originally Posted by SandSquid

No, it is not the same stuff.

Believe me, I'm a cheap bastard (frugal) and I've tried using the hot glue from my wife's craft gun, and even the "High temperature" glue for my Industrial Black & Decker glue gun. it will eventually let go on you.

I've had to sit and completely empty the stuffing out of several bag targets to find the points and inserts that pulled out, after trying to "be cheap" and use these glues on the aluminum shafts the kids in my youth group shoot. I thought with 10 dozen arrows I could save some money, wrong.


Get the glue designed for the job. And a small bottle of propane and a torch head. Total investment for a lifetime of inserts is under $20.00 and it will never "go bad" on you.



Note: if you need pliers or gloves to hold the point you are getting it too hot.

• Heat the end of the glue bar with the propone torch.
• Apply hot melt all around the insert and set aside.
• Do all your inserts.
• Lightly heat the end of the arrow shaft. 10 seconds is plenty.
• Holding the point, dip the insert end into the flame for 5 seconds until the glue softens and gets runny. Remember, if you burn your finger tips on the point you are getting it too hot.
• With one continuous motion place the insert into the end of the arrow shaft and twist and push until fully seated. I do this against a hard surface like the edge of my workbench. You will (should) get squeeze out, be careful not to let it dribble on your hands!
• Allow to cool, and then remove excess.

To put inserts in carbons, I use a tap handle with an appropriate size drill bit inserted backwards (so the bit doesn't score the inside of the insert), slip it on, heat the glue a little and apply it to the end of the insert, and push insert into arrow. To remove, just put a point in, and heat that, and pull'em out. If your inserts are pulling out, maybe a little arrow lube would help. Damn sure helped on my cheepie bag targets. Now when they hit a soft spot, they go right through...

[armyof1]

i use pam cooking spray on my target arrows ,they slip right out of my targets

[WCH]

Originally Posted by armyof1

i use pam cooking spray on my target arrows ,they slip right out of my targets

I don't use nothing on my target arrows, if it goes in easier would it pull the target in with it as much?

[TomT]

Originally Posted by armyof1

i use pam cooking spray on my target arrows ,they slip right out of my targets

Geez, that can is awful big for a belt quiver, ain't it? Do ya use the Olive oil or the original...there's a flour one too.
I've gotta go bake somethin'...

[TomT]

Originally Posted by WCH

I don't use nothing on my target arrows, if it goes in easier would it pull the target in with it as much?

All I can say is that sometimes I had to take the bag off the stand, stand on it, and with my arrow puller, pull like heck to get it out. Now, it slips right out with little pressure. The other day I was shooting at my 70 yard position, and inadvertantly aimed at the 60 yard target, and that little old LS 400 with the 1.5" vanes slammed right through a treated 2X4 (the 1-1/2" dimension) and stuck out the other side 1". Tapped it a couple of times with a hammer, and it popped right out. And this is with a five year old Matthews Ovulation set at 60 lbs...

[newmission]

Thanks for the reply to my question ya'll!

But please try to stay on topic.

Thanks

[TomT]

Stay on topic? We wuz on topic. If your arrows pull out, but leave the inserts and points behind, then what'cha gonna do? Call the "Bag-busters?"
One thing I've always learned in my six decades plus on this orb, is that you don't learn nothin' with yer mouth open..

[armyof1]

lol very true

[TomT]

Pic one, before, pic two, after cut.
Anybody building one needs to send me $200, or two dozen LS 400's, or maybe some venison sausage...

[TomT]

Here it is:

[armyof1]

TomT thanks for the visual aids makes a little more sense to me now