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Old 01-17-2010, 04:30 PM   #1
sqwert
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Default Tuning with FAT arrows.

I hunt and target shoot with the same bow, so after hunting season I changed from my smaller diameter 3-49 ACCs with blazer vanes to 2613 XX78 arrows with 4" killer vanes.

I found that I was getting some fletching contact on the rest with the 2613s, so I raised my nock point and rest up about 1/8".

Seemed to take care of the problem and I was improving my scores every week, the only thing that bothered me was that my arrows were now at the top of the Berger holes instead of centered on them.

Then I bought a new rest and the tech at the pro shop installed it and said he moved my Nock point down because the arrows were not centered on the Berger holes. I said OK you know best.

Then when I shot the bow it didn't seem to shoot as consistantly and I was seeing marks on the launcher arm.

This is a ripcord code red, on a Guardian (binary cam bow) I think I should move my rest and nock point up again, because I can't see another way to fix it except go to lower profile vanes. I have also noticed the rest launch arms angle up instead of laying flat on the shelf. I always thought they were supposed to lay flat on the shelf.

What's right here? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:15 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqwert View Post
I hunt and target shoot with the same bow, so after hunting season I changed from my smaller diameter 3-49 ACCs with blazer vanes to 2613 XX78 arrows with 4" killer vanes.

I found that I was getting some fletching contact on the rest with the 2613s, so I raised my nock point and rest up about 1/8".

Seemed to take care of the problem and I was improving my scores every week, the only thing that bothered me was that my arrows were now at the top of the Berger holes instead of centered on them.

Then I bought a new rest and the tech at the pro shop installed it and said he moved my Nock point down because the arrows were not centered on the Berger holes. I said OK you know best.

Then when I shot the bow it didn't seem to shoot as consistantly and I was seeing marks on the launcher arm.

This is a ripcord code red, on a Guardian (binary cam bow) I think I should move my rest and nock point up again, because I can't see another way to fix it except go to lower profile vanes. I have also noticed the rest launch arms angle up instead of laying flat on the shelf. I always thought they were supposed to lay flat on the shelf.

What's right here? Thanks in advance.
have it been paper tuned
or walk back tuned
or hooter shooter tuned
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:16 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by sqwert View Post
I hunt and target shoot with the same bow, so after hunting season I changed from my smaller diameter 3-49 ACCs with blazer vanes to 2613 XX78 arrows with 4" killer vanes.

I found that I was getting some fletching contact on the rest with the 2613s, so I raised my nock point and rest up about 1/8".

Seemed to take care of the problem and I was improving my scores every week, the only thing that bothered me was that my arrows were now at the top of the Berger holes instead of centered on them.

Then I bought a new rest and the tech at the pro shop installed it and said he moved my Nock point down because the arrows were not centered on the Berger holes. I said OK you know best.

Then when I shot the bow it didn't seem to shoot as consistantly and I was seeing marks on the launcher arm.

This is a ripcord code red, on a Guardian (binary cam bow) I think I should move my rest and nock point up again, because I can't see another way to fix it except go to lower profile vanes. I have also noticed the rest launch arms angle up instead of laying flat on the shelf. I always thought they were supposed to lay flat on the shelf.

What's right here? Thanks in advance.
Buy a launcher blade type rest for indoor shooting. That will solve you promblem. I shoot a drop away some for hunting but launcher blades is the only way to go in tournament.
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:55 PM   #4
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have it been paper tuned
or walk back tuned
or hooter shooter tuned
No, but did a foot powder test on the vanes and confirmed fletching contact.

I also moved my rest and nock point up again and got rid of the contact and the launcher is laying flat on the shelf now.

I sighted in and shot 6 Xs in a row, so I think i'll leave it alone for a while and shoot some more practice arrows.

Should I be able to paper and walk back tune with these arrows at 28" DL 56 #DW? I figured they would be way to stiff to be able to fine tune like that. I can give it a try though, but don't have a Hooter shooter.
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:01 AM   #5
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Buy a launcher blade type rest for indoor shooting. That will solve you promblem. I shoot a drop away some for hunting but launcher blades is the only way to go in tournament.
DB
I have thought about trying a TT spring steel, but no extra $$ right now. Maybe I can do some horse trading.

Obviously I would like to get a desgnated 3D, hunting and spots bow some day too, but got to save and pay off debt first.
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:40 AM   #6
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Run it through some paper...if your getting a good hole and the bow seems to be holding good for you then let it be.


For me the berger hole is just a starting point for the rest, just as long as it ends up near there I don't worry about it.

I think most of my bows end up near the top of the hole anyway.
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:42 PM   #7
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Run it through some paper...if your getting a good hole and the bow seems to be holding good for you then let it be.


For me the berger hole is just a starting point for the rest, just as long as it ends up near there I don't worry about it.

I think most of my bows end up near the top of the hole anyway.
It made sense to me that the larger dia. shaft would put the vanes closer to the shelf than the smaller one would and the only way I could see to get the fletching raised up was to move the rest, except turning the nock of course, but then I was getting close to the cables.

Anyway I have shot some more today and it's still looking pretty good, but I still wonder if i'm missing somthing. Maybe today I should build a paper tuner.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:41 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by sqwert View Post
No, but did a foot powder test on the vanes and confirmed fletching contact.

I also moved my rest and nock point up again and got rid of the contact and the launcher is laying flat on the shelf now.

I sighted in and shot 6 Xs in a row, so I think i'll leave it alone for a while and shoot some more practice arrows.

Should I be able to paper and walk back tune with these arrows at 28" DL 56 #DW? I figured they would be way to stiff to be able to fine tune like that. I can give it a try though, but don't have a Hooter shooter.
Have you tried rotating your nocks?
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:43 AM   #9
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For a 20 yard indoor bow, just do a line tune and forget walkback... for indoors you want two things from your bow...

1. the arrow to hit the center of the X

2. The most forgiving setup possible and that usually that don't mean bullet holes and dead on centershot..

When shooting only one distance, it doesn't make any difference if the arrow turns a flip on the way to the target... only that it sticks in the center of the X

Oh yeah.... ditch the plastic and go with 4" feathers on a hard helical, the idea is to get the arrow spinning as quickly as you can off the bow.. the quicker it starts spinning the quicker it stabilizes... the quicker it stabilizes the more forgiving it is of your little bobbles..
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:10 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by JAVI View Post
For a 20 yard indoor bow, just do a line tune and forget walkback... for indoors you want two things from your bow...

1. the arrow to hit the center of the X

2. The most forgiving setup possible and that usually that don't mean bullet holes and dead on centershot..

When shooting only one distance, it doesn't make any difference if the arrow turns a flip on the way to the target... only that it sticks in the center of the X

Oh yeah.... ditch the plastic and go with 4" feathers on a hard helical, the idea is to get the arrow spinning as quickly as you can off the bow.. the quicker it starts spinning the quicker it stabilizes... the quicker it stabilizes the more forgiving it is of your little bobbles..


+1
I couldn't agree more. I have been on the line at Vegas shooting by some shooters that I had a real tough time concentrating because "their arrows were so distracting comming out of the bow". Gives a whole new meaning to the word bad arrow flight. But by golly they ALWAYS went in the X.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:01 AM   #11
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+1
I couldn't agree more. I have been on the line at Vegas shooting by some shooters that I had a real tough time concentrating because "their arrows were so distracting comming out of the bow". Gives a whole new meaning to the word bad arrow flight. But by golly they ALWAYS went in the X.
Same here.. seen some beautiful spirals and more than one fishtailing arrow in Vegas that went right in the baby X 'pert near every time.
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