Javi, move loop to change aiming tendencys?

Chris · 02-26-2010, 11:17 AM

Javi,

I have a parallel limb bow that I am working on. It wants to hold low on the spot (indoor bow). I've moved my peep up just a touch and that helped but it's still holding low a bit.

Release is back tension hinge. Cam sync is perfect. Binary Cams.

Now my question is this. If I lower or raise the loop/arrow relationship to the berger hole, will this help some?

Since the bow is holding low, do I slightly lower the arrow/loop combination or raise it.

Thanks for any thoughts or advice

JAVI · 02-26-2010, 11:27 AM

You can do that, but before you do have someone look at your shoulder/arrow and see if it is parallel when you are aiming at shoulder height.. One of the most common causes of the bow aiming low is anchor height, then nock location/grip pressure. It is rare today to find limbs so imbalanced as to cause this, but it can occur.

Chris · 02-26-2010, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAVI

You can do that, but before you do have someone look at your shoulder/arrow and see if it is parallel when you are aiming at shoulder height.. One of the most common causes of the bow aiming low is anchor height, then nock location/grip pressure. It is rare today to find limbs so imbalanced as to cause this, but it can occur.

I'll have someone look at it to be sure it's right.

Which direction would I go with it. Up or down?

JAVI · 02-26-2010, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

I'll have someone look at it to be sure it's right.

Which direction would I go with it. Up or down?

Up with the loop....

Down with the anchor...

A little goes a long ways on the nock point...

Generally I like the center of the loop to be directly behind the arrow at full draw, but you can get a push up by having the center of the loop above the arrow at full draw.. the loop can tell you a lot about setup.

JAVI · 02-27-2010, 07:09 AM

So what were the results...

MasterG · 02-27-2010, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAVI

Up with the loop....

Down with the anchor...

A little goes a long ways on the nock point...

Generally I like the center of the loop to be directly behind the arrow at full draw, but you can get a push up by having the center of the loop above the arrow at full draw.. the loop can tell you a lot about setup.

I happen to shoot my loop under, What are your thoughts about this and its effect?

JAVI · 02-27-2010, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MasterG

I happen to shoot my loop under, What are your thoughts about this and its effect?

It was originally intended to replicate the release rope that we started all this with, the primary advantage is that it puts downward pressure on the arrow shaft which can help hold the arrow on the rest. But with proper nock tuning this is easily accomplished without the built-in nock travel associated with this style. Not that it can’t produce accurate shots, as we all know if the travel is repetitive it isn’t a factor except in tuning for it.
The other disadvantage of this style is that on shorter A2A bows with a longer bow it can actually create such an abrupt angle that the nock is actually displaced from the string during the draw this can also be a factor when shooting a wide jaw release off the string. .

JAVI · 02-27-2010, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAVI

The other disadvantage of this style is that on shorter A2A bows with a longer bow it can actually create such an abrupt angle that the nock is actually displaced from the string during the draw this can also be a factor when shooting a wide jaw release off the string. .

Should read longer draw

Fumble fingers.. and brain not always connected.

MasterG · 02-27-2010, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAVI

It was originally intended to replicate the release rope that we started all this with, the primary advantage is that it puts downward pressure on the arrow shaft which can help hold the arrow on the rest. But with proper nock tuning this is easily accomplished without the built-in nock travel associated with this style. Not that it can’t produce accurate shots, as we all know if the travel is repetitive it isn’t a factor except in tuning for it.
The other disadvantage of this style is that on shorter A2A bows with a longer bow it can actually create such an abrupt angle that the nock is actually displaced from the string during the draw this can also be a factor when shooting a wide jaw release off the string. .

I have dealt with the issues you mentioned on my shorter bows and I think I might try the other and see how it works for me. I shot fingers for years and some of this stuff is still new to me?
Thanks

JAVI · 02-27-2010, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MasterG

I have dealt with the issues you mentioned on my shorter bows and I think I might try the other and see how it works for me. I shot fingers for years and some of this stuff is still new to me?
Thanks

Rather than rehash a lot of information that is well known, I'll just provide a link to a great article by John Dudley that does a very good job of explaining with photos... http://www.dudleyarchery.info/articles/biissue34.pdf

SARASR · 02-27-2010, 10:56 PM

Where do you anchor your hand at full draw?
I have this same issue after going from a 36 in. Jennings PWC to Diamonds Iceman at 31" ata, I have been holding with the knuckle of my index finger right in front of my earlobe after looking into it will try to drop anchor to below
my jaw, should raise the sight.