Having just bought the Bohning fletching jig,(for straight vanes), I was wondering since Ive been reading up on offset fletching being better when shooting broadheads then straight vanes, which I currently shoot, can I get a replacement clamp to mount right or left with this jig, or do I have to buy a whole new jig just for gluing offset vanes?
I havent even played with this thing yet, and i know its cheap, but thought it would get me started on doing my own arrows.
I see I can get replacement clamps, but am unsure weather they would work with the jig that is for straights. Hope I didnt muddy this up too much and appreciate any help you guys might have. Thank you, Doug in Pa.
Thanks for the help. After I posted, I did see where you can get the other clamps. Ive just come in from playing around with the jig, and some old arrows for practice. They really didnt go out of the way with explicit instructions did they?
Im having a hard time getting the blades on straight, and I think I see where you can line up the two marks on the magnet piece for an offset. Is that correct?
I cant seem to make sense of the marks on the back knob as far as lining up to do all three vanes.
Can someone help me out with this, or point me to a decent video about using this jig?
Ive looked but havent had much luck. I thank you all again for the help.
...it really depends on what size / spine shaft you are using, that will dictate where to set up the slider.
What I do (it may not be the right way, but it works for me) is place the shaft in the jig, with a nock fitted to the shaft, you'll "feel" it slide into a locator.
Place a vane in the clamp (without any glue). Then position the clamp, onto the magnetic bar / slider so the magnet is holding it. Undo the two screw knobs, just enough so it slides reasonably easily but it isn't too sloppy. Sliding the combined clamp, vane and magnet slider as one, position the front of the vane so it is evenly touching the centre line of the shaft and the gluing part of the vane has uniform contact with the shaft. tighten the front knob slightly, but only enough so the slider will still move with a bit of effort. Then slide back of the clamp so the inside edge (towards the magnet in the jig) of the back of the vane is lined up with the outside edge of the front of the vane.
Looking from above, imagine a centre line along the length of the shaft, the outside edge of the vane should be on one side of the centre line, and the inside edge of the back of the vane should be on the opposite side. That, I've been told is a 2 degree offset with a straight clamp.
With a helical clamp, the clamp bends the gluing surface of the vane around the outer circumference of the shaft. If done correctly, looking down the shaft at the vane, the vane will have a smooth curve around the shaft, whereas with a straight clamp it will just be sitting diagonally across the width of the shaft and the vane will not have a smooth curve.
If you position the magnetic slider as described for the straight clamp, you may need to slightly re-position it so all of the gluing surface of the vane has full contact with the shaft.
I hope this isn't too confusing...
Bows: '99 Darton Cyclone & '05 Darton Avalanche - 52Ib @ 27.5"
Stabilizer: Doinker 10" Multi-Rod Hunter Plus
Arrows: Beman ICS Hawk / ICS Bowhunter 400 Carbons
Release Aids: Tru-Ball Pro-Diamond T Handle, Standard Caliper Head
Sights: GWS "Silver Talon" Single Pin, Pivot - Home Made 5/32" Peep
Thanks Storm, Ill give that a try.
I talked to a guy at pro shop today, and said he had been to a show over the weekend and they were shooting the new Grim Reaper mechanicals with straight fletched two inch vanes and were accurate as all get out.
Wonder what you folks think about this.