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Old 01-04-2006, 10:44 PM   #1
blw_alpine
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Default setting up a single cam?

im having trouble with my nap drop away rest, the 2000 model. my **** van is hitting i have it down. ive tryed everything and am wondering if one of my limbs are tightend down more than the other if it would cause extra nock travel, mabey shoving my arrow down into the rest? my bow is suppose to come "true" from factory but i dont trust that any more. can i tighten one limb a little more to test this and if so witch one the top or bottom. thanks for any help
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Old 01-05-2006, 04:01 AM   #2
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I shoot a ripcord fall away, and I shoot **** vane up. Try it and see if this helps.
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Old 01-05-2006, 05:31 PM   #3
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well i tryed that in the begining and it just tore up the other two feathers, but ive changed some things since then. ill try it agian
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Old 01-05-2006, 09:11 PM   #4
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If you suggest that the limbs aren't even you could turn them both all the way in. Count the turns. Then turn them both back out evenly. Then you'll know.
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Old 01-06-2006, 05:04 PM   #5
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thanks, i did that they were not even. it did help but still not a perfict tear at close range. about 2" up. but i did target shoot a little, in my house at about 13 yards (OH my girlfriend loved that idea!). im grouping about 1.5" so im going to leave every thing where its at. my vans are really wavy im thinking some quick spins are in call.
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:08 PM   #6
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Why put Quick Spins on and tear them up. You obviously have fletching clearance issues that need resolved. The fact that your arrows will group well at close range means nothing except that they group. Almost any arrow will do that with target points. They just fly ugly getting there.

The fact that your arrows were tearing a 2" rip in paper proves that your nocking point is possibly way too high or so low that your arrows are hitting the rest and bouncing up when they leave the bow.

I think that being as you are going to be refletching your arrows at some time I would strip one down now and try tuning a bare shaft, at least as close as you were trying to paper tune. See if you can get a bare shaft coming out of the bow well.
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:11 PM   #7
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Just thought of something. You need to put in some specs of your setup. It's possible that your arrows are underspined for the bow weight and length. In this case you'll never get good results whether paper tuning or using a bare shaft.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:49 AM   #8
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Default Adjusting limbs

I had a problem with my vanes getting torn up also but I resolved my issue by going with the **** vane down which I can see did'nt work for you. But one thing that you definitly want to be sure of is that when you adjust your limb screws you have to make sure that they are even. You can do this by measuring from where the limb meets the limb pocket on the inside to the string. Adjust until they are even. Have you tried adjusting your rest down then resetting your flipper to make sure it is centered?
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:37 AM   #9
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ok ive made some head way ive got my arrows to clear the rest. i have it adjusted so at full draw its(the nap rest) pointing almost strate up. ive moved the nock point all over the place in small amounts im at 1/8th above 90* now. i did the string test on the limbs and they are the same. my bow is around 66-68 pounds i have not tested it since i adjusted it, im one turn out on both limbs and its a 60-70 pound bow. my arrows are pse carbon force extreme 400's and im using 100 gr. points. last i tested the speed i was around 270 fps. now with a bare shaft im getting a 1" tear up at 5 feet away. the tear is perfictly up, not to the sides at all. now to ask a stupid question can that be a spine problem, i read that spine problems show up sidways?
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:09 AM   #10
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You Got Me Thinking About The String Test. On My Bow They Have What Looks Like A Teflon Spacer In Between The Limb And The Riser. After I Looked A Little Closer I Could Tell They Are Not The Same On Both Limbs. I Used A New Measurement Location And The Lower Limb Was About A Whole Turn Off For This Test. My Tear With A Bare Shaft Is Only A 1/4" Now. I Think Nock Placement Will Clean This Up. Im Going To Work On It Now And See What Happens. Thanks Again!
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:51 PM   #11
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A tear straight up means a low nocking point. Also when changing your draw weight you always want to check the tiller afterwards. The distance from the limb pocket to the string and make sure they are exact on both upper and lower limbs. This is important even on high quality bow's with matching limbs such as Mathew's, Hoyt Martin, and Bowtech.

Also, if you don't already have one, spend a few $ and buy a bow square. That will go along way in helping find the proper nock set for your bow and rest.

Good Luck


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Old 01-09-2006, 07:34 PM   #12
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OK, think about this. Your arrows are approx. 19/64" in diameter. Half this is 19/128" which is slightly more than 1/8". This is why 90 degrees (square)off the string is about 1/8". Some, not all but some, bows need to shoot a nocking point slightly above square. It's just the way a certain bow likes it. This is especially common with single cam bows, especially if they don't have perfectly level nock travel. Can you tune it out? Not totally, but you can tune the bow so it shoots well. You just have to move things where the bow wants them.

And this might sound dumb, but if you listen to your bow it'll tell you what it likes. Shooting through paper is one way to get it to talk. Bareshafting is another.

I think I caught something. Did anybody express any ideas about proper timing of the rest? It should reach it's maximum height when you have only about 2" of sraw left. If it raises too early then it's going to drop too late. Make any sense?
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:22 PM   #13
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That Was It. I Had The Rest Coming Up Too Soon To Help With The Fleching Problem. I Cant Believe How Much Adjusting It Helped. It Shoots Perfict Holes In Paper With A Bare Shaft At 4-5 Feet. Thanks I Was Starting To Give Up On This Bow I Feel So Much Better Now. I Should Add That The Vans Were Still Hitting But Just Barly So I Used A Dremel And Carefully Cut Out The Middle Of The Rest. It Was Squared Off Now Its Cuped If That Explanes It. Im Pretty Sure Its Clearing It Now I Have 4" Duravans And Will Be Swiching To Ether 2.5 Quick Spins Or If They Come Out Any Time Soon The 3" Qs. I Think I Read That They Have A Lower Profile That Will Help With The Clearance Problem. Thank You Every One For Your Help
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Old 01-11-2006, 04:38 PM   #14
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Before you get into the Qickspinsgive a try on the Duravane 4" Low Profiles. That might help some, too. I use them to give me better clearance shooting between my cables on a Martin X System. They are also lighter than most other 4" vanes and very consistent in weight.
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Old 01-11-2006, 06:50 PM   #15
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Thanks I Will.
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