04-08-2012, 12:17 AM
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#1
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Paper tune????????
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04-08-2012, 12:43 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Columbia, Kentucky
Posts: 184
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I don't know but it might be the rest. Did you check for any kind of cam lean on top and bottom cam? That might be it.
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Snake Creek Mafia
2012 Elite Answer
TRU-BALL shooting staff Bernies Control Freak Staff
Part of the UnBannable Crew on AT You Cant Catch Me. 
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04-08-2012, 07:18 AM
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#3
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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first off westy, give me all the info with youre set up.
draw weight
arrows weight/spine/length
draw length
check cam timing
i would check the cam lean first by putting it in a bow press relaxed and put a straight edge on the sides of the cams and make sure the amount of space between the straight edge and the string is the same amount on both sides. if it isnt then you need to put twist's in the yoke to compensate for the amount of cam lean you have. the qad rests i have fooled around with have been very finicky to tune. start off by relaxing the down cable and putting the activation cord of youre rest in the cable but dont tie it in. now take it out of the press and draw it back, when you get the bow to full draw the activation cord should be close to being timed. all you need to do is make sure when you get to full draw is make sure the marks on the thumb wheel are lined up. then when thats done you can tie the cord into the cable. this should get you a very close reference to where the cord should be timed at. i like the vaportrail limb driver rest cause there's none of this timing issues i have to deal with. hope this helps my friend.
Good luck
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04-08-2012, 02:13 PM
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#4
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkersonhunter
first off westy, give me all the info with youre set up.
draw weight
arrows weight/spine/length
draw length
check cam timing
i would check the cam lean first by putting it in a bow press relaxed and put a straight edge on the sides of the cams and make sure the amount of space between the straight edge and the string is the same amount on both sides. if it isnt then you need to put twist's in the yoke to compensate for the amount of cam lean you have. the qad rests i have fooled around with have been very finicky to tune. start off by relaxing the down cable and putting the activation cord of youre rest in the cable but dont tie it in. now take it out of the press and draw it back, when you get the bow to full draw the activation cord should be close to being timed. all you need to do is make sure when you get to full draw is make sure the marks on the thumb wheel are lined up. then when thats done you can tie the cord into the cable. this should get you a very close reference to where the cord should be timed at. i like the vaportrail limb driver rest cause there's none of this timing issues i have to deal with. hope this helps my friend.
Good luck
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Thanks guys I will start with the cams and work my way out !!!!From what I've read so far if it were the cams were out of time my tears would be up and down not horizontal like I'm getting R-L but I'm going to work on this and get it sorted out yet!!!Happy Easter and thanks for he heads up Guys will check out that vapor trail thanks Wilco
Cheers Westy
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04-08-2012, 05:51 PM
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#5
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
Thanks guys I will start with the cams and work my way out !!!!From what I've read so far if it were the cams were out of time my tears would be up and down not horizontal like I'm getting R-L but I'm going to work on this and get it sorted out yet!!!Happy Easter and thanks for he heads up Guys will check out that vapor trail thanks Wilco
Cheers Westy
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oh i promise if you do then you will be buying one. for me, it has to be the easiest rest to tune and set up that there is. here is a link to the video and some more info on this rest.
http://www.vaportrailarchery.com/arrow%20rests/
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04-08-2012, 09:48 PM
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#6
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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04-09-2012, 04:42 AM
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#7
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
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i think you will like it if you give it a try. did you watch the video?
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04-09-2012, 04:58 AM
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#8
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkersonhunter
i think you will like it if you give it a try. did you watch the video?
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Yer i watched all of them including the bloody Turkey   
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04-09-2012, 01:18 PM
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#9
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
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that was a heck of a shot wasnt it? lol
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04-09-2012, 03:52 PM
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#10
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkersonhunter
that was a heck of a shot wasnt it? lol
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Yes Sir  
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04-10-2012, 09:52 AM
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#11
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Keep 'em in the 10-ring!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central, IL
Posts: 30
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cam lean possible
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkersonhunter
first off westy, give me all the info with youre set up.
draw weight
arrows weight/spine/length
draw length
check cam timing
i would check the cam lean first by putting it in a bow press relaxed and put a straight edge on the sides of the cams and make sure the amount of space between the straight edge and the string is the same amount on both sides. if it isnt then you need to put twist's in the yoke to compensate for the amount of cam lean you have. the qad rests i have fooled around with have been very finicky to tune. start off by relaxing the down cable and putting the activation cord of youre rest in the cable but dont tie it in. now take it out of the press and draw it back, when you get the bow to full draw the activation cord should be close to being timed. all you need to do is make sure when you get to full draw is make sure the marks on the thumb wheel are lined up. then when thats done you can tie the cord into the cable. this should get you a very close reference to where the cord should be timed at. i like the vaportrail limb driver rest cause there's none of this timing issues i have to deal with. hope this helps my friend.
Good luck
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Yes, be sure to check for cam lean. I purchased a BowTech AirRaid about 2 years ago and couldn't get a clean punch through paper for the life of me. However, the harness was not a "split-type" but a "u-shaped" style that did not permit anyone to compensate for any type of limb torque by twisting one side or the other. I ended up shipping it back to the manufacturer to see what they could do with it. In the end, I had to pick out a new bow (excellent customer service, by the way).
FYI, my tear was also (right-handed bow) right-to-left. Meaning my fletching entered the paper to the left of the tip. I could introduce a tail high or a tail low by adjusting the arrow rest, but nothing I did improved the tail left tear.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
~~archery~~
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04-10-2012, 03:36 PM
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#12
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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04-10-2012, 06:32 PM
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#13
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
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westy, what i do is i will stand 6 to 8 feet away from the paper rack and get a good hole. and yes any bow that is right will punch a good hole through paper. then when i get a good tear then i will do the walk back tune method. then when that is done i guarantee the rest is perfect.
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04-11-2012, 12:51 AM
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#14
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkersonhunter
westy, what i do is i will stand 6 to 8 feet away from the paper rack and get a good hole. and yes any bow that is right will punch a good hole through paper. then when i get a good tear then i will do the walk back tune method. then when that is done i guarantee the rest is perfect.
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Thanks wilkco as goodbowmachinics here in Oz are very few and far between!!!maybe i'll have to keep working on it and become he gun Bowman of Oz    Westy the Gunn it's got a nice sound to it!!!!  
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04-11-2012, 06:27 AM
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#15
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
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yes it does and if you need any help with the walkback tuning method of the rest either google it or pm me and i will explain it to you. good luck
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04-11-2012, 04:07 PM
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#16
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkersonhunter
yes it does and if you need any help with the walkback tuning method of the rest either google it or pm me and i will explain it to you. good luck
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Thanks Mate    
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04-11-2012, 09:56 PM
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#17
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
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not a problem thats what we are all here for, to help each other.
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04-11-2012, 11:32 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 2
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If you have a nock left tear, you should move the rest to the right, not the left. This may be your solution. Its much easier than fixing cam lean.
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04-12-2012, 12:08 AM
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#19
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padeadeye
If you have a nock left tear, you should move the rest to the right, not the left. This may be your solution. Its much easier than fixing cam lean.
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GiDay Paeaeye did all that and then just gave up!!!!! What a boy to Do????????  
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04-12-2012, 06:23 AM
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#20
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
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start by just eye balling the string down the center of the riser. then put the rest at that position. if its not shooting a bullett hole through paper then, start by checking cam lean with a straight edge on the side of the top cam. there should be a small gap between the string and the straight edge on both sides of the top cam. if not, adjust accordingly. oh, and if you have the rubber grip on the bow then i highly suggest you take that one off cause its very possible you are torquing the bow. Good luck mate
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04-12-2012, 05:01 PM
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#21
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkersonhunter
start by just eye balling the string down the center of the riser. then put the rest at that position. if its not shooting a bullett hole through paper then, start by checking cam lean with a straight edge on the side of the top cam. there should be a small gap between the string and the straight edge on both sides of the top cam. if not, adjust accordingly. oh, and if you have the rubber grip on the bow then i highly suggest you take that one off cause its very possible you are torquing the bow. Good luck mate 
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GiDay Wilco what do you recomend then for the grip????That could be the problem right there!!!!I noticed the other day when shootin this element it felt like I was torqing the bow,did the riser trick with a arrow in the rest and was wondering why i was still getting a tear like this????Checked the cams and no lean,so it looks like a case of operator malfunction    It's the first time I've shot 60# in a while and with the weight of the element it almost feels like a kids bow in my hands,the draw cycle is also a simple yank and i'm hitting the backwall!!Tell me more about what kind of grip is best for these bows Old Mate
Last edited by Westy; 04-12-2012 at 05:04 PM.
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04-13-2012, 10:34 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hornet's Nest
Posts: 511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
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Well you can add those people to the list of shooters without knowledge also....
I do not paper tune....but only because I don't need to. I can count on one hand the # of arrows I have shot through paper in the past 3 years with a target HOYT.....and they have always been either a bullet hole or a perfect nock high left tear that I like.
But you should have NO PROBLEM paper tuning any Hoyt....you need to twist your yoke to get the tear cleaned up....and or take off those goofy grips that come on the Hoyts. Shoot off the riser and put some tennis grip tape over it. Pull it as tight as you can get it. I just go down the handle with one wrap.
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04-13-2012, 12:27 PM
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#23
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy
GiDay Wilco what do you recomend then for the grip????That could be the problem right there!!!!I noticed the other day when shootin this element it felt like I was torqing the bow,did the riser trick with a arrow in the rest and was wondering why i was still getting a tear like this????Checked the cams and no lean,so it looks like a case of operator malfunction    It's the first time I've shot 60# in a while and with the weight of the element it almost feels like a kids bow in my hands,the draw cycle is also a simple yank and i'm hitting the backwall!!Tell me more about what kind of grip is best for these bows Old Mate
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Go on hoyts web site and buy the side plates it will be night and day difference. i tried the tennis racket tape over the bare riser but it just felt to much like a rubber grip to me and thats what we are trying to get away from
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04-13-2012, 12:43 PM
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#24
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Hoyt Vertor Turbo
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Somerset,PA
Posts: 195
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Try the Hamskea rest way better than a Limb Driver and they hook to the limb too cost alot more worth every cent check them out at Steve's arrows.com they are bilt so much like a rock compaired to a limb driver and will last.
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04-13-2012, 08:57 PM
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#25
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In God we trust
Join Date: May 2010
Location: in gods country
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matrix,hoyt
Try the Hamskea rest way better than a Limb Driver and they hook to the limb too cost alot more worth every cent check them out at Steve's arrows.com they are bilt so much like a rock compaired to a limb driver and will last.
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not saying that rest is junk or anything but i have never had the first problem with my limb driver rest
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04-14-2012, 02:37 AM
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#26
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Aussie Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland Australia
Posts: 7,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Hornet
Well you can add those people to the list of shooters without knowledge also....
I do not paper tune....but only because I don't need to. I can count on one hand the # of arrows I have shot through paper in the past 3 years with a target HOYT.....and they have always been either a bullet hole or a perfect nock high left tear that I like.
But you should have NO PROBLEM paper tuning any Hoyt....you need to twist your yoke to get the tear cleaned up....and or take off those goofy grips that come on the Hoyts. Shoot off the riser and put some tennis grip tape over it. Pull it as tight as you can get it. I just go down the handle with one wrap.
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GiDay Brother dropped your name on the Aussie Web Site the other day and a few doors opened up for me straight away,with Marcus!!!!!Changed the hoyt grip as you said and yep problem fixed!! Sweeetest bow this Aussie has ever shot (Hoyt element) 50 meter 6 arrow group today 3" spread with open sight and 10" stabilizer not to bad considering this is my hunting bow????    thanks for the help once again Old Mate!!!!
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