06-09-2012, 06:57 PM
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#1
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Gypsy King
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lake Elsinore, California
Posts: 16
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My Arrows are Fishtailing
When I shot today, I noticed a lot of my arrows were fish-tailing(wiggling horizontally at the rear) during flight. What causes this, and is it a problem? If it's a problem, how can I fix it?
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06-10-2012, 03:38 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 9
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Several causes, although watching the arrow in flight can be deceiving.
Read Easton's Tuning Guide, it thoroughly covers this topic.
http://eastonarchery.com/img/downloa...ning_guide.pdf
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06-10-2012, 05:30 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7
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I agree with Praeger. No question it's a tuning issue. And yes it's important to get it fixed. It absolutely kills you on penetration, no matter how fast your bow is. Lots of things to consider depending on what kind of now you are shooting(single cam or binary cam). I can go into details if you are interested. Just let me know.
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06-10-2012, 05:55 AM
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#4
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HUTCH~N~SON ARCHERY LLC
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gilmanton, NH
Posts: 536
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I had this same problem. Most of the time it is a tuning issue. But with mine it was too stiff of an arrow. I did everything I could to get it in tune and it never changed. I used my shooting machine and it still wouldn't change. So I changed the arrows to less stiff ones. That solved the problem.
Hutch
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06-10-2012, 03:37 PM
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#5
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Gypsy King
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lake Elsinore, California
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol Tom
I agree with Praeger. No question it's a tuning issue. And yes it's important to get it fixed. It absolutely kills you on penetration, no matter how fast your bow is. Lots of things to consider depending on what kind of now you are shooting(single cam or binary cam). I can go into details if you are interested. Just let me know.
Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine
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I'm not particularly worried about penetration, I'm a target shooter. As for tuning, I'm pretty limited. I'm shooting a bare recurve. I'd love some more details though, if you're willing.
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06-10-2012, 09:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,648
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tell us a little about your set-up. what is the draw weight listed on your bow and what is your draw length, what spine arrow are you shooting, how long are they and what is your point weight.
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06-10-2012, 09:56 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: South East Massachusetts
Posts: 2,201
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Also, what type of recurve. Not brand, but type. 1 piece wood bow, modern alloy riser with ILF limbs?, etc.
__________________
FBSA Member
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06-10-2012, 10:11 PM
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#8
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Gypsy King
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lake Elsinore, California
Posts: 16
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#28, 26in draw takedown with wood riser and laminate limbs. I'm shooting 28" Beman hunter jr.'s, with 75 grain field tips. People are saying they're 500 spine and 7.2 gpi, but I can't find anything official.
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06-11-2012, 06:01 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: South East Massachusetts
Posts: 2,201
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My guess is that those shafts are too stiiff. Are they fleched with feathers or plastic vanes? That could add to your problem if they're plastic. They match in grains per inch with the ICS Hunters in 500 spine so I suspect that they are also, but being shorter makes them even stiffer. Do you have access to other arrows to try? Something like an Easton 1716 aluminum which is .890 spine or an 1816 which is .756 spine. You can get carbons in those ranges but their the higher end target shafts that are real pricey. XX75 Platnums are still a pretty good way to go.
If other arrows are out of the question, you could try heavier points which weakens the shaft a bit. 100 and 125 grain points can be found just about everywhere, the heavier points you'll probably have to order. They go all the way to 300 grains. Try to match the diameter of the shaft if you can, makes pulling from a target easier. Look at bemans website, and click on the hunter jr's you'll see the recomended point diameter.
Lets not forget, when shooting with your fingers your going to get some fishtaling initially anyway, but it should be minimal and stabalize quickly. Its refered to as archers paradox.
__________________
FBSA Member
Last edited by red44; 06-11-2012 at 06:08 AM.
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06-11-2012, 09:18 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,648
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I agree with red, get some 100 and 125 gr points and try those first. if that improves your arrow flight to remove most of the fishtailing I would just live with it while you continue to work on your shooting form and consistency.
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06-11-2012, 01:20 PM
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#11
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Gypsy King
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lake Elsinore, California
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red44
My guess is that those shafts are too stiiff. Are they fleched with feathers or plastic vanes? That could add to your problem if they're plastic. They match in grains per inch with the ICS Hunters in 500 spine so I suspect that they are also, but being shorter makes them even stiffer. Do you have access to other arrows to try? Something like an Easton 1716 aluminum which is .890 spine or an 1816 which is .756 spine. You can get carbons in those ranges but their the higher end target shafts that are real pricey. XX75 Platnums are still a pretty good way to go.
If other arrows are out of the question, you could try heavier points which weakens the shaft a bit. 100 and 125 grain points can be found just about everywhere, the heavier points you'll probably have to order. They go all the way to 300 grains. Try to match the diameter of the shaft if you can, makes pulling from a target easier. Look at bemans website, and click on the hunter jr's you'll see the recomended point diameter.
Lets not forget, when shooting with your fingers your going to get some fishtaling initially anyway, but it should be minimal and stabalize quickly. Its refered to as archers paradox.
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I'm on a budget so I don't think I could get new arrows right now, but I'll definitely pick up some heavier tips next chance I get. Thanks a bunch, everyone.
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