06-25-2009, 09:02 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 29
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vane length
shoot a lh PSE stinger, 70#, 10 in doinker a-bomb stabilizer, 2 inch PSE overdraw (not sure if its staying or going) and a short 26in draw length..... got hooked up at cabelas with a RTS bow, and a dozen 2117 gamegetter arrows..... didnt know they were so heavy... anyways, i won a few auctions on ebay for easton 2312 X7 arrows...... fletched them my self (used a bitz straigh jig, with a small right hand offset dont worry!!!)-half with aae vanes, and half with duravanes... all 4 inch..... now for hunting im sticking with duravanes -4in, and 100 gram fixedblade broadheads...... no one can talk me out of it.... now for 3-d, i will shoot the same arrows, but with glue in nibbs, and was curious if i downsized to 3in vanes, what would i gain, or lose???? i know it will weigh less, but not sure if i will gain much FPS.... also, whats the deal with these Blazer vanes???? are they good for 3d???? and if so, do i need to buy the bohning "blazer fletching" jig...... what are your thoughts guys???? (and gals)
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06-26-2009, 04:46 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 218
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If you go to 3 inch vanes you will pick up a few FPS. BUt the real question should be due you lose any control by the reduction in the vane size. I would fletch 3 arrows with 3 inch vanes and see if they group as well as the 4 inch vanes...or better yet go to the Bohning 2 inch BH blazer vanes. I have gone from 4 inch vanes to these and they work just as well for me. I also shoot with a release and not fingers. If you are a finger shooter I would stay with the 4 inch vanes...
Bill
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06-26-2009, 07:02 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,636
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read here under arrow flight... if you head doesn't explode... you will have a better understanding of arrow flight
http://www.tap46home.plus.com/mechanics/
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Mike "Javi" Cooper
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06-26-2009, 08:27 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: South East Massachusetts
Posts: 2,201
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madmike 1735, if you did want to try the Blazers, you would'nt need a different jig.
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FBSA Member
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06-27-2009, 06:19 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Western NC
Posts: 137
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My head didn't explode, but...
That article was intense! Too much for me to absorb at 7:00 a.m. One thing I got out of it, though, (I think) is that he's recommending no offset at all in fletching. Am i reading that right?
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06-27-2009, 09:11 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTColl28734
That article was intense! Too much for me to absorb at 7:00 a.m. One thing I got out of it, though, (I think) is that he's recommending no offset at all in fletching. Am i reading that right?
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From the article.....
The arrow with the larger fletching oscillates much faster than the smaller fletched arrow. As a consequence the distance the arrow gets pushed sideways is reduced with the larger fletching. The other benefit you get from the larger fletching is that because the range of arrow offset angles is smaller there is less "flying sideways" and you get lower contribution to the overall drag from the arrow shaft. The curve of the mean arrow path is therefore reduced. As the fletching gets larger, and hence heavier, it moves the centre of gravity of the arrow back towards the nock. This reduces the proportion of shaft drag that is acting as a fletching and overall reduces the arrow turning efficiency of both fletching and shaft drag as the torque lever arm is shortened. The fletching, from the point of view of good arrow flight can therefore be too big or too small with the right size somewhere in the middle. The lighter the material the fletching is made of the better because of the weight effect.
When the arrow leaves the bow it is vibrating as a result of the Archers Paradox effect. A large part of this vibrational energy is dissipated by drag on the fletching surface and the section of shaft that acts as fletching. As the drag depends on the area,the larger the fletching the faster this energy is removed. i.e. the faster the arrow vibration is damped.
The trick is to find the amount you need to stabilize your arrow in the worse conditions you might encounter, but not to use so much as to cause upset in flight...
For instance a high helical on a target arrow is probably unnecessary and can actually result in accuracy loss, but for a large fixed broad head might be just the ticket.
Several years ago, Easton engineers did a good bit of testing and determined that a 2-degree offset was ideal for most applications. That is with a well spined arrow and tuned bow. The purpose of offset and helical fletching is to impart stabilizing spin to the arrow as fast as possible so that any initial upset can be corrected quickly. For most of us this is the ticket because our form and release isn’t done with the perfection of the top target archers and so we inadvertently impart upset to the arrow upon release.
It is the length of the leading edge that is important and not the height of the vane.
__________________
Mike "Javi" Cooper
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06-27-2009, 09:13 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 70
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I shot 1.8 duravane 3ds on my 2312s for 3d and they fly awesome. Have experimented with lots of different short and low profile vanes and never had any issues. I really liked the rayzr feathers on the 2312s.
Using the same vanes on my 2412s as well.
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06-28-2009, 12:51 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Costa Rica
Posts: 6
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vane length
Hi Guys, Is there such a thing as a full length roof rack for my 1994 Surf ?, or do i just have to make one instead
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