10-19-2012, 07:26 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 3
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Help me understand some basics
Please correct me where needed and help me understand the nature of compound bows. I currently shoot a 60" 50# PSE recurve and am trying to decide which compound would suit me. I'll use it for 3D and target, not likely to hunt but prefer a bow that could be used for hunting over one that is a pure target type.
So, here is my confusion:
I 'think' I know the "back wall" is when you draw the string all the way back to a point where it will not come back any further.
I also believe the "valley" is the range of the draw just before you hit the back wall and the draw force of the string in the valley is greatly reduced.
I'm guessing that "creep" is when you purposely relax your pull at the back wall and let the string move through the valley toward that point when the cam/s suddenly increase the pull of the string. (do you purposely do this before triggering the release, so you shoot from within the valley or do you shoot from the wall?)
Assuming I have that correct, here is my question:
My recurve is 50 pounds draw weight so I 'think' I know what 50 pounds draw weight feels like....
If I had a 50 pound compound bow, where during the draw cycle, if ever, would I feel the same force that I feel on my recurve?
I'm guessing, shortly after beginning to draw until I hit the valley?
The main reason for my question is to learn if I should be looking for a compound bow of the same draw weight as my recurve. If a compound bow will enable me to move upp to more draw weight then i want to take advantage of that.
My main reason for wanting a compound bow is I want to increase my range and shoot faster and flatter than my recurve.
I'm a total rookie to archery, just bought the recurve to join my rookie daughter and discovered I love shooting arrows at stuff.
Thanks!
Last edited by Enchilada Jones; 10-19-2012 at 07:36 PM.
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10-19-2012, 09:14 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,648
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everything you are thinking or assuming is pretty much correct other than you dont want to purposely creep forward from full draw when you are shooting. shooting from the valley used to be much more popular when bows had round wheels and larger valleyss, but the current crop is easier to shoot from the wall. if you can handle a 50 pound recurve comfortably you'll be able to easily handle a 50 or 60 pound compound. the draw force will peak roughly 1/4 to 1/3 of the way into the draw and will remain close to peak until you roll into the valley at the end. with a 60 pound compound with 80% letoff you'll only be holding around 12 pounds at full draw.
here's some good info you can look over.
http://www.huntersfriend.com/bowselection.htm
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10-20-2012, 05:49 PM
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#3
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Recycle archer
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: westcentral Iowa
Posts: 13,426
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You've come to the right place !
 to this site !
__________________
Proud owner of one of the original Jennings " Buckmaster " bow , a true deer slaying machine !
I have return to bowhunting in 2012 and have the venison in the fridge to show for it !
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10-20-2012, 09:17 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: South East Massachusetts
Posts: 2,201
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X3 and J.C. has it all covered.
__________________
FBSA Member
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10-22-2012, 06:59 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In the horn of Michigan
Posts: 7,113
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If your shooting a 50 pound recurve it would be a safe bet that you would have no problem shooting yp to a 70 pound compound bow, although I couldn't see when a person would want to shoot anywhere near that weight for paper punching. I shoot 60 to 70 pounds on my hunting bow and struggle to properly shoot a 45 pound recurve. they are two different animals.
and like was said earlier....creep bad
__________________
A man is as unhappy as he has convinced himself he is.
Enjoy 
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10-22-2012, 09:24 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the help everyone.
I bought a compound bow yesterday, a Diamond Outlaw 50-60 lbs.
I had read where the string rode high on the idler wheel and there was a history of derailing from inexperienced users so it wasn't on my list even though it had all the features I wanted. When I saw two of them for sale side by side, one having a wheel with a deeper groove to contain the string I decided to go ahead and buy it.
I had read about the way the cam has a really abrupt way of taking off when letting the draw down but after trying it out in the store I determined I can cope with that.
After shooting about a hundred arrows I can say I got a bow that I like a LOT!
For $550 with sight, rest, quiver, strap, stabilizer and D loop I guess I did ok.
I had been watching used bow prices and availability in my area and nothing was close to what I ended up with.
I'm impressed with the accuracy of this bow, I imagine it will keep me going for a long time.
Thanks again!
Last edited by Enchilada Jones; 10-22-2012 at 09:37 AM.
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10-23-2012, 08:02 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: South East Massachusetts
Posts: 2,201
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Can we assume you are using a release? or still in recurve mode with fingers?
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FBSA Member
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10-24-2012, 08:47 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red44
Can we assume you are using a release? or still in recurve mode with fingers?
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No fingers. I was using a release with the recurve too.
My 13 year old daughter who got me into this new hobby is the purist, recurve, fingers, no peep or any sight....but she does use a whisker biscuit. She is getting pretty good too.
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