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Old 01-28-2006, 01:07 AM   #1
wbmark
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Default Arrow straightness

Is there a big difference in the way Goldtip pro series 22 shoot and Goltip ultrlight 22 (non pro) series shoot? I was told that if you cut both ends of the raw shaft to the desired arrow length needed, you can correct the straightness of the standard series to be as straight as the pro series. Any truth to that? Is spending the extra money on the pro series worth it? Any inputs would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-28-2006, 10:16 PM   #2
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The Pro's have a tighter tolerance than the Ultralights. Gold Tip recommends that you cut the shafts from both ends.

You may get a good dozen of UL's that match the performance of the Pro's. But, you'll have to do the homework. If you get the Pro's, the homework has already been done.

Only you can decide if you require the better shaft. If the tighter tolerances matter in your game, the Pro's are your choice. If you are shooting 4 inch groups at 20 yards, you may not need the Pro's.

Spending the extra money is worth it to me, personally.
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:54 AM   #3
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Thanks for the input. At 20 yards I can consistantly keep my arrows in a 2 to 3 inch group. Majority of the time my arrows will be touching. Its the thirty yard and out shot that I am trying to improve. I am currently using Goltip XT Hunters 5575. Are threre any other brand of arrows that would be worth getting equivilant to 22 Pros series?
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Old 01-29-2006, 07:27 PM   #4
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Are you looking for hunting shafts? Or 3D?
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Old 01-29-2006, 07:56 PM   #5
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Mainly 3D. I am looking to join a 300 league in a month or so when I have more time. As far as hunting goes, I am very pleased with my XT Hunters.
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:53 PM   #6
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To some of us archers, every little thing matters, and matters greatly. Like arrow straightness. (I will only buy and shoot Gold Tip X-cutter Pros for 3D use.) But there are others who shoot 3D who really are not into the specifics of ultra arrow straightness and so on, and they shoot great. So I figure that it is a matter of preference for the archer as to what they like and prefer.
If you like the arrows you are shooting, and you are holding your own in competition with them, why change? On the other hand, if you feel an arrow change a notch or two up in quality will give you an added edge, go for it. I myself would definitely purchase the pro series arrows. Better straightness tolerances and a bit more quality can never hurt.
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Old 01-29-2006, 09:20 PM   #7
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if i were you i would buy the ultralight pro series 22 arrows
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Old 01-29-2006, 09:25 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the responses. And coming from a 14 year old, you must be pretty good asking about sponsorships, so I will take your advise and buy the Pro series 22's.
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Old 02-20-2006, 08:28 PM   #9
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Default Arrow Straightness - other things to check

Though arrow straightness is important, it cannot buy accuracy. Even for target, any arrow that can truly hit 0.003" straightness is fine.

Of more importance is what you do next. Not only cut the shaft but square the end using a G5 squaring tool. Install the nock end bushing then square that as well. Install your nocks and spin the arrows on a straightness checker to look for nock runout.

Then, fletch all the arrows on the same jig to ensure consistent arrow to arrow fletching angle. After fletching, cut arrows to length and square that end as well. Though not as important for target points, it makes a huge difference for aligning broadheads. If the point end has a bushing, square it after installation.

If you want to take the ultimate test, take your bow and arrows to a shot that has a Hooter Shooter and group tune your arrows. You may find that your 0.001" straightness arrows fletched quickly by a shop cannot group within a 2" circle. Often, you can change impact point by just rotating the nock 180 degrees. Does this all make a difference --- YES!!!!!!!

Is this overkill - depends on your viewpoint. My experience is that it makes a huge difference in arrow to arrow consistency. Even after squaring a set of Easton Fatboys for 3D last year as noted above, I had to turn several nocks to get a tight group (got it down to about 1.25"). I just tuned a set of CX X-Jammers after being very careful with nock alignment and squaring - got a 1/2" C-C group right away - nobody in the shop had seen such a tight out of the box group.

Don't fall victim to the straightness is everything claim - many other factors are just as important. Starting with good shafts, though, is a smart idea.

I hope this helps....
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:06 PM   #10
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Question

Whats the difference between the linejammers and x-jammers? I just shot a 298 48x tonight w/linejammers, It is pretty tough fitting all five arrows in that little x ring.
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Old 02-21-2006, 05:12 AM   #11
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Default X-Jammers

X-Jammers are 26/64 OD - a little bigger OD than the Linejammers.
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Sureloc Scope w/0.5 and 0.6 diopters
Doinker 32" Elite Series Stabilizer
Carbon Express X-Jammers - Spot
Easton Fatboy 400 - 3D

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Old 02-21-2006, 05:16 AM   #12
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Default 5-Spot

Quote:
Originally Posted by BOWMAN
Whats the difference between the linejammers and x-jammers? I just shot a 298 48x tonight w/linejammers, It is pretty tough fitting all five arrows in that little x ring.

Shoot the 5-spot target and you will be fine!
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Sureloc Supreme Sight
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Doinker 32" Elite Series Stabilizer
Carbon Express X-Jammers - Spot
Easton Fatboy 400 - 3D

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Old 02-21-2006, 08:32 PM   #13
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Listen here I have a hard enough time Shooting at one spot, now you want me to shoot at five different ones oh lord what are they trying to do to me
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