Arrow rest timing?

Discussion in 'General Archery Forum' started by krist003, Feb 28, 2008.

  1. krist003

    krist003 New Member

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    Ladies and gentlemen, yet another question. I have been shooting my arrows with blazer vanes through my whisker biscuit and my left vane on all my arrows (outside vane that is away from the riser) has black marks all along it. I have never had this problem.

    Is there a procedure to fix this or do i just go on adjusting the rest until it does not happen anymore? Any info is appreciated. Thanks!
     
  2. BowhuntnHoosier

    BowhuntnHoosier Bisquit.......

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    You need to turn your nocks a little because that vane is going through the black bristles on the bottom of the rest which is a no no. Turn your nock just a little counter clockwise.:peace:
     

  3. krist003

    krist003 New Member

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    I don't think that is the issue because my **** vane is pointing straight up. I think that vane is rubbing on the outside plastic housing of the WB when the arrow flexes. I know blazers are a tight fit.
     
  4. BowhuntnHoosier

    BowhuntnHoosier Bisquit.......

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    Hmm.......I have never had that problem before.:noidea: Hopefully someone can chime in and help ya out soon.

    As long as they don't say......get a different rest or use different vanes. There has to be a reason for this problem.:doh:
     
  5. kbohunt

    kbohunt are u a fat boy?

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    yep

    It may be his nocking point is not set right malking the arrow kick up or down
    Check that first:biggrin1:
     
  6. HCAman

    HCAman New Member

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    I shoot blazers through my biscuit just fine. Keep adjustin' you'll get it:wave:
     
  7. trigger

    trigger New Member

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    don't know much about the Wb but you want your center shot and your knocking point to be on the money.
    So moving the rest just to fix the black marks could create more problems than it will fix.
    I hate to ask but have you tuned your bow?
    If so and this is still happening check to see if anything got moved out of place.
    Have you changed anything in your setup (arrows,release,grip).
    If the bow shoots good and it's not affecting your point of impact then it may not be a big deal as long as it's not killing your vanes.
    Also I have heard that it is best to shoot vanes that have no or very little offset through a WB.
    Hope this helps
     
  8. red44

    red44 Senior Member

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    I'm assuming that it's lower left vane, correct? If moving the rest left/right or up down, or moving the nockpoint up/down does'nt help, look at cam sync. I went about crazy with my son's Hoyt with a WB. Get yourself a can of spray footpowder to spray on the rim of the WB and move the rest or nock. Take your time and try all directions. The vane in question will clear a mark in the powder if it hits. If you cannot get clearance it could be the cam sync is off a bit. Our issue was sync. I ended up having to ignore the timing marks and go for as level nock travel as I could get (using the cable gaurd as a reference) and draw stop timing. ????????are you using a loop??????????
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2008
  9. trussoni

    trussoni Ninja Fighting Fool

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    My vanes did the same when I was using Blazers on a Carbon Express arrow. Local shop told me the same thing BowhuntnHoosier told you. It didn't stop until I quit using Blazers. I came to the conclusion that I would never figure it out and the arrows flew as straight as I could launch them so I just accepted the smudge on the vane.
     
  10. Scrotang

    Scrotang Junior Member

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    Sounds like a centershot problem I would shoot it through paper and then shoot a bare shaft through paper and see what you come up with.
     
  11. krist003

    krist003 New Member

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    Well, i am shooting the black ice which is a single cam bow and comes with a factory placed nock. My center shot is dead on and the arrow while in the rest (not drawn) is 90 degrees to the bowstring. Is it supposed to be at 90 degrees on a single cam?

    I am using a d-loop. I though maybe the flex of the arrow was causing it. You know when you see an arrow shot in slow motion, it flexes back and forth. So i was thinking that it is flexing to the left at its maximum the exact time that it goes through the rest; if that makes any sense.
     
  12. QSA

    QSA One eyed/Gutless wonder

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    Are you shooting the right spine for your draw weight?
     
  13. krist003

    krist003 New Member

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    I am shooting Easton 400 spine, 26" length at 61 lbs. of draw weight
     
  14. red44

    red44 Senior Member

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    Same would apply for a single as a twin as a binary. Just have to find the right nock height and rest position. Don't assume because the nock was placed at the factory it's right for you. Or the rest for that matter. How would you know if centershot is correct when your getting contact? Static centershot mabey, but it does'nt mean it's the right for you, how you grip the handle, your arrows, point weight, etc, etc. Have to play with it some.
     
  15. krist003

    krist003 New Member

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    Centershot should be lined up with the bowstring right? Other wise the farther away you are shooting from, the more your arrow will go either to the left or right. Am i correct in assuming this?

    I would think you would want your string, arrow rest, and sight pins in a line for the best results, no? I am just confused on the adjustments of these things. Seems like trial and error is best, huh?
     
  16. J.C.

    J.C. New Member

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    usually the pins and rest are a little to the left of the string for a right-handed shooter to offset torque from the cable guard at full draw.
     
  17. BUNNYMAN

    BUNNYMAN I pray for you!

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    Yeah, NEVER TRUST any factory settings......you should see how some of these bows are coming in the shop......

    where did you get the bow from???
     
  18. BUNNYMAN

    BUNNYMAN I pray for you!

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    was the REST put on at the factory???

    if not, the factory set nocking point is useless......:noidea:
     
  19. krist003

    krist003 New Member

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    I bought the bow brand new and put everything on it from my previous bow. I just never had this problem with my last two bows with the exact same setup. I just figured the nocking point is at least close and i could move my rest to compensate. I have been tooling with it, and i got it to stop rubbing. Thanks for all the info, i appreciate it.