Gold Tip -- best way to install inserts

Discussion in 'General Archery Forum' started by freediver, Nov 25, 2007.

  1. freediver

    freediver Junior Member

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    I have a dozen 3555 Gold Tips that shot great in my bow w/ target points. But they shot about 5" low at 20 yds. with 85 gr. Thunderheads. I could not put enough helical or straight angle in the fletching or it would interfere with my rest. So I ended up shooting 2312's the last few years. Well, I just ordered a TR drop away rest and want to try again to get the higher speed with the lighter Gold Tips. I figure I can fletch them full helical (w/ drop away rest) and hopefully get them to group with my field points. Does this seem like it would work?

    What's the best way to install inserts in the Gold Tips? I remember having some of the Easton inserts pull out when removing broad heads from a target.
     
  2. BUNNYMAN

    BUNNYMAN I pray for you!

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    3555??

    whats your setup??
     

  3. dano1977

    dano1977 Senior Member

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    That's what I was thinking.
     
  4. icom

    icom Junior Member

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    how long are the 2312's ?? thats the arrow I went back to shooting...no more carbons for me:nono:
    I might get some 2215's though:noidea:
     
  5. freediver

    freediver Junior Member

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    Sorry for not including set-up info. It was a PSE (Fireflight I believe) at about 55# -- it had wheels, not cams. I shot both 5575's and 3555's and decided to buy a dozen 3555's since I thought they grouped a little better. At the time I believe the charts showed this to be the right Gold Tip arrow for my bow. Anyway, they shot great with field points. Broadheads grouped low. I hunted with them for a season using Spitfire 2 blade 85 grain BH's. These shot to the same point of impact as my field points. But penetration was not as good as fixed broadheads so I tried again to get the 85 gr. Thunderheads to group up with my field points. I use 4" feathers and would push the helical or straight angle as much as I could without getting into interference with my rest. But I never could get the two to group together and ended up using 2213's which I could get to group together.

    So, I've got a dozen 3555's that I'm thinking about using in my current bow (Mathews Icon-- looking at the charts this arrow is on the soft side for this bow at 55#). Anyway, I was figuring with a drop away rest you can fletch with a full helical which might "guide" the 3555's to the same POI as my field points.

    And if I have not lost you all with details... for 3 years I've been shooting the 2213's with field points and broadheads grouping together. But not this year. Broadheads grouping 4" low now with the 2213's. Nothing changed except my bow will only develop 48#. It's a 60# bow and I guess the string has stretched??? In an effort to get field points and broadheads to group now I moved my rest up/down. I did not want to mess with my nock loop since it's more or less fixed on my string. I could not get them to group together so I moved my sights to match my broad heads.

    So, I'm going to start from scratch after the season is over.. new drop away rest and some new arrows. Just want to try and get my speed up to 250-260in the process.
     
  6. freediver

    freediver Junior Member

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    My arrows are 27.5" long.
     
  7. icom

    icom Junior Member

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    oh..their 2213's not 2312's

    sounds like the 1st thing you should do is get the bow back to specs

    when I was shooting carbons,I just used Loc-Tite gel for everything;fletches and inserts
     
  8. Dredly

    Dredly Site Guru

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    Goat Tuff. use it for fletching and inserts... works GREAT as long as you put the insert in QUICKLY otherwise it will dry 1/2 way in the arrow and then you have issues!
     
  9. bfisher

    bfisher Senior Member

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    Let's just forget the PSE for the time being. You want to shoot the Icon. This is the one that has dropped to 48#, right? Probably what has happened is that the string and cable have crept (elongated) We all say stretched, but that isn't correct. When the string/cable creep it allows the limbs to relax (less prebend) and the weight goes down.

    First thing is to get the bow back into specs either by twisting up the rigging or, as I suggest, replace it with some good aftermarket cable/string that won't change over time. It's ready for a change anyway. Without sounding too critical, if you have the factory strings in it you have a good bow with some of the worst strings known in the industry (Zebra).

    To install inserts in carbon arrows you need to cut the shafts, clean the inside with CTip and denatured alcohol, and glue the inserts in. Personally I like 2 part, 24hr epoxy as it allows me to spin test the arrows and make any adjustments to make broadheads spin true..... Yes, I install inserts with broadheads on them. If I'm using Nibbs it's no big deal.

    As for what carbon arrows? You are not going to get 3555's to shoot correctly out of a 55# compound---at least with broadheads I know what the numbers on the shaft mean, but don't believe it. The numbers are inflated by at least 5#. You need to shoot GT 5575 or if needing a lighter arrow then their UL400 (look under target arrows).

    I could say more about your whole post, but I think I'l wait a while and see what develops.
     
  10. freediver

    freediver Junior Member

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    Thanks guys. A new string/cable will go on the Icon post season. I'm having some pain in my back after shooting so I'm keeping it to a minimum. Otherwise I'd change the string now and jump all over getting it tuned back up with a new rest, arrows, etc.

    I'll show my ignorance here. I thought the Matthews strings were good. So, if the Zebras are not good what is? Can I order the string from somewhere and install it myself? The string details are stenciled on my bow. I used to do this on my PSE but took my Matthews to a pro shop for a new string a year ago. Shop is a 45 min. drive so if it's doable at home that sure makes it easier. If I need to take it to the shop that's fine. I guess they can get any of the better strings you guys use?

    I appreciate the advice on ditching the 3555's because they are too soft. I've read hundreds of posts on this forum about which arrows folks like. One thing that I have not seen mentioned is how much noise the various carbon arrows make on the rest. I had much concern with the Gold Tips due to the noise they made. Eventually I found some shrink-on tubing that was made of much softer rubber than my rest. The Gold Tips were quiet enough on this rest although the material wore down quickly since it was soft. I sand my XX78 2213's with 2000 grit wet sand paper to get them quiet on my rest. Are some of the carbon arrows quiet -- maybe some without the heavier camo coating?
     
  11. BUNNYMAN

    BUNNYMAN I pray for you!

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    I had the stock Barracuda Strings on my Switchback for almost 2 years and guess what........NO STRETCH at ALL.......not a SINGLE CENTIMETER.......so I really dont see what people have against the zebra strings.....other than PRICE........
     
  12. bfisher

    bfisher Senior Member

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    Zebra and Barracuda are two different strings. I'll admit that I have no personal experience with the Barracuda's. Only what I have read on several forums. I know some of that has to be taken with a grain of salt so I would have to say you had a good set. They seem to be "hit-or-miss" with quality. Same can be said for Fuse on Hoyts and the Double Helix on Martins.

    Yes, the price of Zebra's has always bothered me. For the money I buy mine from Bucknasty on www.archerytalk.com. Quality that rivals Winner's Choice or Vapor Trail, but about $60 a set, including shipping. You pick the colors and the material.
     
  13. tnts79

    tnts79 Senior Member

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    We use hot melt on all the arrows we do at the shop. I don't bother with lining up the inserts for broadheads, I just use a really small oring sandwiched between the head and the insert. Then, I can line them up however they shoot best either offset or inline with the fletchings. I think fixed blades are junk so I shoot mechanicals!:argue:
     
  14. bfisher

    bfisher Senior Member

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    Considering that fixed blades of one sort or another have been around for thousands of years, why would you say they are junk? Can't you get them to fly the same as field points or what?
     
  15. tnts79

    tnts79 Senior Member

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    I can shoot them, I just dont like them:noidea: I like the big holes my mechanicals cut! Show me a fixed blade that will cut 1.5" like my rage or tekans....