3-D Advice

Discussion in 'Beginners Archery Range' started by conquest3D, Feb 7, 2006.

  1. conquest3D

    conquest3D Guest

    Well i need some help,to start i have a conquest 3 with 6 pin fixed sight,can't find a stabilizer i like none feel right,need some advice,such as what should i go with,brand,length,weight etc. Also,what about sighting in ive been bow hunting for 14 years so i can mostly tune a bow myself but with 3d im new,so like any tricks i should know on tuning,but mostly what increments should i set my pins for 3d cant get it figured out.well i'll shut up now but any advice or tips on tuning,sighting in,and/or,stabilizers would be great.Thanks again guys,B.Miller
  2. Pinky

    Pinky Guest

    I'll say this about stabilizers. A stabilizer should "stabilize". You add stabilizers to do just that.

    First, you shoot your bow without one. Then, note what the bow is doing.

    Is it wanting to raise up while aiming? Are you having to push the bow up because it is falling as you aim? Is it going left, right?

    Sometimes, balancing problems are form, or, set up issues. Grip, draw length, etc.

    Check your form first. Then, make sure your bow is set up for you. Then, you can tell what the bow wants.

    Once you know what the bow needs to stabilize it, you can then buy one that "Stabilizes" it.

    As for sights. You are using 6 pins. Do you need all those pins to shoot the class you are in? Clogging up the target picture with a bunch of extra pins can cause you to focus on the pins, instead of the target. What is your max range in the class you shoot?

    Just say your max yardage is 40. 3 pins should get you thru a 3D round. I doubt you'll see a target at 10. Most likely, all your shots will be from 20 to 40.

    Let us know what you need. ;)

  3. bullspotter

    bullspotter Senior Member

    hello... just a few pointers from my point of veiw on the amount of pins on your bow... First you need to check the rules for the shoots, some dont let you have more then 5. I like to have a pin for every 10 yards, depending on how flat your bow is shooting. its up to you, i start at 20 yards, then 30, 40 ext..... I run pins out to 60, so far the farthest shot i can remeber was a 55 or very close to that, most are not over 50, I guess that depends on your clubs that put the shoots on, We have alot of the bigger targets at some of our area shoots, moose, carabu, and several elk targets, so their out a bit further. Not all the clubs have the bigger targets, things like the larger deer, ram, and speed goats will run out to 45 or so yards. I have also seen some targets verry close, 5 or so yards...... Depending you your club, or who ever is setting up the targets, you really could run into anything....... good luck and happy shooting!!!!!!!!
  4. 3dhunter

    3dhunter Member

    3D help...I hope

    If the shoot allows you to use the 6 pins you have, I woould go with 20-30-40-45-50-55. If you can only use 5 leave out the 45. A Stabalizer should do three things...Balance forward after the shot, help with left and rights and take shock out of the bow. If you ever get a bow with sweep back limbs, they'll take alot of the shock out for you. I really like the shockblocker 1000
    6", it's been working great for me.
    Are you going to use the arrows for 3D and hunting? I use ACC 3-60's, $130-$150 a dozen, had them for 6+ years now, LOVE THEM and wouldn't trade them. Since '93 I've tried Goldtips and others, different sizes and found none that worked as well. These give me the speed for 3D and work great for hunting. Aluminum or Carbon, they all break eventually. Take your bow to a Pro shop to check the tuning, alot of bowhunter think they can, and I end up fixing alot of them. Also talk with the owner, about picking up speed, I've taken guys from 5-15 fps just on re-adjusting or taking things off the strings that are not needed. Sometimes changing certain equipment can help speed and/or accuracy. Feel free to email me if you have anything.
  5. Pinwheel1969

    Pinwheel1969 #1 THREAD KILLER

    3D advice

    Well to start you need to figure what class your going to be in? Say ASA events in novice/ hunter you are allowed 1 front stabilzer no more than 12 inch's. Plus you can use a Off set or V-bar stabilizer. Rear mount cant have stabilizers no more than 6". Front mounts cant be longer than 6" past back of grip. From what I under stand in the hunter class rules of ASA. open class you are allowed any length. When I shot hunter I used a 7.5" Vibracheck carbon fiber w/ a doinker A-bomb on the end for added weight. You will have to decide what your going to shoot then decide on a few to try out. I dont know what brands you've tried. But I haved used Doinker, Vibracheck, Easton, Cartel, AEP. They work well for me.
    As explained above. The longer stabilzer you have. The better stability.
    Your basically going to have to test and tune when you make your choice.
    Good Luck !!!!
  6. aggie2000tx

    aggie2000tx Guest

    Like everyone has stated above you have to figure out which class you want to shoot. Bow novice is max 30 yards. Hunter is max 40 yards. Both of these classes have a max stabilizer length of 12". The unlimited class is a max 50 yards. You can have any length of stabilizer that you want but you can not shoot a scope you will still have to shoot pins. I shot the hunter class this year in ASA. I only have 4 pins in my sight which are at 17, 25, 33 and 41 yards. I went with that because very few times will a target be right at 20 or 30 yards. This next year I will be shooting in the unlimited class and I will probably have five pins in my sight once I get it all rigged up. If you have never shot 3D before then I would suggest that you start in the Bow novice or Hunter class. Those are the beginning levels of the 3D world. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
  7. killbambidead

    killbambidead bambi killer

    why not just use ur hunting set up ? look at a 3d shoot as off season practice ... thats wat i do