Bow Tuning

Discussion in 'General Archery Forum' started by SilentSniper, Jul 18, 2007.

  1. SilentSniper

    SilentSniper Senior Member

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    After you buy a new bow and shoot 100-200 shots, what does the pro shop do to your bow as in tuning? I've always wanted to know? Enlighten me.
     
  2. BowhuntnHoosier

    BowhuntnHoosier Bisquit.......

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    With mine we maxed out the limbs and checked the ATA & BH & Timing mark. Had to put a couple twists in the cable since then nothing has changed.
     

  3. Michael396

    Michael396 Member

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    Nothing! I tune my own equipment.:cool:
     
  4. SilentSniper

    SilentSniper Senior Member

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    Ok maybe I need to rephrase my question. What goes into tuning a bow?
     
  5. red44

    red44 Senior Member

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    I've never worked at a shop, but work on my own a bit. IMO if your lucky to have a decent tech in the shop he would put the bow in spec, meaning ATA, BH, DL, DW, and properly time, syncronize or oriented the cam(s). Beyond that you need to be doing the shooting and fine tune from there.
     
  6. Ronhop

    Ronhop RIP

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    Well, I'll take a crack at this but the bow shop guys could probably put it in proper order for you and meybe make it more reader-friendly.

    -Peak draw weight and draw length proper for the shooter.
    -Correct spine and length of arrows for that setup along with correct point weight. With also considering what the bow will be used for. Indoor, outdoor 3D and hunting have different 'optimum' goals in a setup to makes things better for the archer. That does not mean you need 3 bows if you want to do each type of shooting. It's just a conversation you need to have with the shop you want to purchase a bow from.
    -Correct center shot and nocking point location. Paper tuning or walk-back tuning would assist in doing this. Downloading Easton's Arrow Tuning Guide from Easton's WEB site is a really nice free guide to help and would answer many of your questions.
    -Measuring tiller and cam/idler lean at rest and full draw to be sure manufacturer specs are met. Also, cams, most single and all double and cam-1/2 cams need to be timed for the best nock travel and the least amount of hand shock. SIngle cams seem to be less prone to these issues, double or cam-1/2 seems to be more sensitive to timing.
    - Then sight in your sight for windage and elevation and you're good to go.

    Good luck and hang around. There is a lot of good information and people willing to help here.

    Ron