first time bowhunter

Discussion in 'Beginners Archery Range' started by trophyhill, Jul 7, 2008.

  1. trophyhill

    trophyhill New Member

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    i just purchased a martin firecat and am starting out with 100 grain field tips. which broadhead matches the flight of my field tips the closest. also what do they mean when they say a finely tuned bow? are they talking about the sight pins? will mechanical broadheads kill an elk efficiantly?if mechanicals arent the solution then which broadhead should i try. there are so many to choose from
     
  2. dbdcougar

    dbdcougar He Who Drops His Bow Arm

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    I've never hunted elk so all I can do is repeat what I've read. It does seem there is a preference for 125gr. heads by some of the outfitters.
    Here's a link giving a brief description of paper tuning:
    http://www.archery.org.au/lib/pdf/papertuning.pdf
     

  3. J.Blay

    J.Blay New Member

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    I've killed, trailed and recovered 3 deer with 100 grain atom razor wire broadheads made by arrowdynamic solutions. The blood trails were fair on one single lung hit, and heavy on the other two deer. The longest trail was 100 yards. They are the only broadheads I know of that guarantees exact same impact point as target tips, or your money back. Tuning your bow involves adjusting several features to achieve optimal arrow flight and groups. Try searching bow tuning and read what looks to be usefull. There's too much involved for me to try to explain it all here. I also watched my local bow tech set mine up and he explained a lot to me. Since then, I've learned to do most bow tuning and set up myself. Hope this helps. Have fun, I do!
     
  4. pred8er

    pred8er He who eats fuzzy animals

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    This is a huge question.

    Tuning involves everything on the bow from ensuring the cams are timed so that they rotate together, ensuring that the brace height is set right, the rest is centered and at proper height, the nock point is at the right height, the peep is at the right spot for a natural point of aim, your draw length is correct and the sight is adjusted correctly to having the proper spine of arrow for your draw length, making sure the arrow is a proper length, the nocks and inserts are square in your arrow (if you shoot aluminum arrows, that they are straight), that your broadhead is straight and fletchings are even and adherded well. You don't want any contact between the arrow and the bow anywhere except on the rest where the rest will not contact the fletchings.

    This answer is just a drop in the bucket. Hopefully it gets you in the right direction. There are also all sorts of useful books and articles on this subject.

    As far as what broadhead to use; use what you like. I like a fixed blade head myself, I just haven't had good luck with mechanicals. Remember to match the broadhead weight to the field point weight you are currently using. Good luck! :peace:
     
  5. trophyhill

    trophyhill New Member

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    after alot of thought and consideration and research on the subject and talking to different people and reading reviews i have chosen to go with the slicktrick magnums for now. i put one on yesterday and it fishtailed and was way left of what i consider the kill zone.after the fourth shot it glanced off the left edge of the blackhole target and off a tree and broke off one of the flights. when i pulled the broadhead off i noticed it wasnt very tight. when i put it on another arrow i made sure it was tight and the blades were nice and tight and straight and this time i was hitting in the kill zone on the next 12 shots. im wondering if there is a wrench or tool to tighten these up when screwing them on. i plan on taking it down where i bought it and having it paper tuned and have one of the guys check my form. i dont think my form is all that bad because im hitting in a 12 inch radius consistently now up to 40 yards with the field tips. i havent shot the broadheads enough to make a determination on whether these are the way to go yet. do you or anyone else have any more input? thanks