honest opinion and a question

Discussion in 'General Archery Forum' started by n2t, Mar 7, 2007.

  1. n2t

    n2t Senior Member

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    Honestly is it worth it to "upgrade" from a martin orion to the fred bear instinct? My questions are 1)what is the min draw lenght available on the orion? I've seen it listed at 25" but my bow seems to bottom out at 26" misprint or do I need a module? Also the instinct is listed at 23-29"..but the local scheels can't move theirs. All their elements and instincts are 29" and either they don't know how or don't have the modules to change DL...why don't these bows ship with modules? Thanks for the opinions ahead of time.
     
  2. BowhuntnHoosier

    BowhuntnHoosier Bisquit.......

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    I do not know about the DL adj. of either bow. I would say get used to the orion since you are just starting out get some practice time in and work on your form. Then after you feel the bow is holding you back then upgrade. I think any modern bow is better than most average shooters out there. I do not know anything about the Orion but Martin makes some great bows so unless its real old(over 10 years) I would say wait to upgrade. The Instinct is a nice bow as are all the new lineup from Bear but if you like Martin the Bengal is the same price and I hear it is a great bow also. Decisions Decisions only you can decide. Just remember to have fun and do not try to become a pro overnight it takes time..............and alot of practice. Now I will be out practicing because I have alot of practicing to do. But I do have fun.:peace:
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2007

  3. bfisher

    bfisher Senior Member

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    I don't know about the Bear. I just don't see a need to keep up with the changes every year As for the Orion, what cam and module is on it now? Assuming you have the Dynacam then it should have the F1 module on it for a 25" draw. If it does and measures long then it's possible the string stretched allowing for a longer draw.

    From all my experience Martin ships almost all their bows with a complete module kit from F1 up to F7.
     
  4. red44

    red44 Senior Member

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    Check on that module number. I think you'd be doing yourself a diservice to swap bows at this early stage. You'll hear it a hundred times, it's not the bow but the Indian. You can take a grossly out of tune bow, put it in a shooting machine like a hooter shooter and it will hit the same spot every time, it's shot sequence is consistant. Get the bow to fit, and learn how to tell if it's within spec, and work on a consistant shot. It takes time yes, but we have all been there and we never stop learning.
     
  5. n2t

    n2t Senior Member

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    I'm actualy enjoying the orion quite a bit. With all my current additions it's become a pretty sweet shooting bow. My next addition will be a alpine dropaway rest I think, though these pronghorns are better than expected and honestly I may just stick with them. The STS system is a nice addition. At 26" the bow is smooth, in tune, I haven't hit my arm once in about 400 arrows (thank you sts) and I thing the DL is perfect. The only thing that bothers me at this point is because of my short DL at 230fps the top pin of my site (set at 20 yards) is almost obscured by the riser. I'm worried if I pick up any more speed that I won't be able to see the pin. Is this a common problem and if so how is it usualy solved?
     
  6. kbohunt

    kbohunt are u a fat boy?

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    top pin

    something is not set correctly.
    need a pic of your anchor point/ at full/draw& looking thru peep.
    & pic of arrow/nocked setting on bow undrawn.
    reason;something is not tuned correctly or anchor-point/ peepsight is out of alignment. your pin should never be that far up.example;if you pull-back&anchor,at the corner of your mouth, with the string touching your nose are you looking stright thru your peep.if not the peep need's to be moved there& shoot & reset pins.(example 2)if it's not your peep/is your rest position correct.tiller-measurement etc.its really hard to tell any thing else without being hand's on .but i know there's a problem there & if you cant fix it ,you might want to take it to a pro shop.:peace:
     
  7. Dredly

    Dredly Site Guru

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    Move your sight down :)
     
  8. n2t

    n2t Senior Member

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    pro shop said it was fine and there was nothing to do about it. What exactly is a "tiller setting"?
     
  9. kbohunt

    kbohunt are u a fat boy?

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    tiller measurment

    tiller measurement;is the measurement between the riser& string.
    measure stright across from were the limb meet's the riser on the bottem limb & on the top limb/the distance should be 1/8 inch closer on the bottem than on the top,for 2 cam bow's............& even on both for solo cam bow's.

    this tiller adjustment get's off by cranking one limb more than the other.
     
  10. n2t

    n2t Senior Member

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    Lol that's great news. I was on AT a week ago and they told me to check the measurements from where the limb connects to the riser to the string and make sure it was even. It was close but a little bit off. I never moved it because I figured there may be something I didn't know. Lol so I guess my tiller measurement is on. As far as the peep. I just had it moved it was to low and I was having lean forward to see through it. Now it's set right. I'm paper tuned so I know it's not arrow to nock or I would be getting verticle tearing. My pro shop gave up they have no clue what it could be. On AT someone said it's probably just the arrows and my bow and that I can either deal with it or try new arrows.
     
  11. bfisher

    bfisher Senior Member

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    Don't get carried away with tiller measurements at this point. It is recommended that the tiller be set even, but what measurements you get depends on the type of cam and idler wheel on the bow.. I'm assuming you have the DynaCam which makes this a single cam bow.

    There are two ways to measure tiller on a single cam bow, both being correct. One is two bottom both limbs and then back them out evenly till the desired weight is reached. The other is to stretch a string from one axle to the other and then measure from the string to where the axle and riser meet (the base of the limb pocket). It's not important what the measurement is, but that is the same.

    The reason for stretching a strring from A2A is that often times the idler wheel is smaller than the cam so the bow will have a smaller measurement at the top limb if you just measure from the limb to the string. Does this make sense to you?
     
  12. n2t

    n2t Senior Member

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    Yeah makes sense to me. I don't think that's an issue with my bow. It seems that there is a very small differance in the measurements on bottom and top cam, the top one being slightly closer but that makes sense it being a single cam.