Kisser Button / D ring / Accuracy

Well shooting 3 hrs.a day will defenitly set a shooting form/habit good or bad. Shooting 1 1/2" groups would say that before adjustments made to your string loop you had your draw consistant. When the string loop was shortened this change your consistant draw. Everyone has that sweet spot in there draw in good shooting form. This is just my opinion.

 

Either that or re-adjust your shooting form/style. You had trianed yourself to a consistant draw point with the longer string loop. That is why your kisser button was of. A slight change can have effect on point of impact. Consitancy has changed in result accuracy affected.

 

Any adjustments to your bow set-up generaly can and will effect your arrow point of impact. All shooters have what I call the sweet spot and when you find that spot your acuracy will greatly improve. Good luck in getting your group tightened up.

 

rdnkgirl, Hopefully they will come up with a bottle of group tightner, That would definatly make a man an instant millionare. HUMMMM! sounds like the change got in it's shot at you it will do it to every body:frusty: . archery is a very mental sport. Keep focused on that correct form shot after shot after shot after shot............................................ regoup as you have and keep on shootin sometimes it hleps me to take a day or two off maybe just go and sit out by the target and dream of a big T-bone Med rare.. Straight shootin, Holy Smokes

 

note: I AM NOT LOOKING FOR A DATE! (Pre-post warning)

Have somone take pictures of you when you are at full draw and post them. This will help us identify your issues, or if its mental

D-Loop (its not a D-Ring typically unless you use those metal ones) should NOT affect your draw length, which means the D-Loop can be a full inch long if you are comfrotable with it.

D-Loops are often used to make up for poorly measure draw lengths and allowing people to shoot shorter draw bows without the bow Tech working on the string... basically being lazy or ignorant


Its good that you found a "workaround" however Problems with lenghting your release include:

- reaching for the trigger, greater chance of punching
- curling your wrist to get your fingers up further
- feeling like you are "over drawing"
- Weakining the release to the point of failure

Issues with shortening your D-Loop

- Feel like a shorter draw, may not have the same anchor points
- Feel like the bow is not centers correcly because of where you are drawing to.
- If to short can cause issues w/ release
- If poorly tied / done can cost speed

Issues with lengthing the D-Loop

- Longer drawlength but no benefit to it
- Makes you anchro back further
- May be hard to get nose on the string to look through peep
- Can throw everything out of alignment, similar to shooting to long of a draw length.

Its a fine balance... one I couldn't find if I fell out of a boat and hit it.

 

You can upload them right to this site and they will be hosted here .

- Try to get a good side shot while you are lined up with the target (if possible get a target that is eye level so your not looking down at the ground). This will help determine if your draw length is the correct length

- If possible get a shot from behind showing your anchor and elbow. Try to ignore the camera if possible so your not getting that "1 perfect shot" and instead just a normal shot.

btw: Shooting 3 - 4 hours a day is a LOT, if you just recently started shooting you may want to reduce that a bit as after 3 - 4 hours your muscles are probably extremly sore... then again just leaving the service and beating up felons for a living probably keeps you pretty strong... just a suggestion though.

Another "negative" to shooting so much is you may be training to bad habits as you work through sore arms and back. By doing this it could affect the way you draw and the way you hold, it can also impact how you hold as you will look for the "easiest" way to hold instead of the correct way.

Just my opion though. I could be way off but I know after shooting for a few hours thats how i get.

 

one of the biggest "rookie tuner" mistakes (NOT YOURS!!!!) is that instead of lengthing the drawlength to correct by twisting the cables they short it to the easiest drawlength and then add a long loop to compensate.

in order to get 1/2 inch draw lengths most bows require that you twist the cable more to make the string shorter. so if you need 26 3/4 you would go 27" and twist the cables. If you need 27 1/4 you would go 27" and reduce the number of twists... at least thats how MOST bow techs would do it.

Most "box" stores (gander, cabelas...) will just go to the next lowest setting and rig the d-loop to be what you want. The downside is:
1. longer d-loop = less speed
2. Shorter drawlength = less speed
3. Shorter drawlength won't line up correctly on the draw
4. D-Loop may stretch = BAD!

 

There are several reasons why you may have been slappin the crap out of your arm.

- Brace Height (To short = OUCH)
- Form issues (most likely)
- Not moving your arm out of the way
- Tuning issues... ie: the strings are on the wrong side of the cable slide

Draw length could definately be related to this as well but its not nearly as likely as the above issues. My guess would be Form issues. especially if you have large forarms or a very very closed stance.

You need to meaure your draw length. The best way is to go to an actual bow shop. Any GOOD bowshop will have a recurve bow w/ a dowel arrow that will show your correct draw length. Measuring wingspan is not accurate enough IMHO.

I normally match my arrows to my draw length -1 inch. So I shoot a 30 inch draw (w/ bent elbow) and my arrows are 29 inches long from nock to insert. Tips are not included in the length.

If your arrows are drawing to where your field point is on the rest its a HUGE issue!!! you are running a lot of risk doing that, your insert should be IN FRONT of your rest while at full draw.

It sounds like you should never go back to where you got the first bow from or the second one! your arrows should be at least a full inch longer, if not more depending on the riser and where your rest is. Also, make sure you weigh them. I'm not sure what arrows you are shooting but at 24" or less you need them to weigh at least 250+ grains to hit the VERY min 5 gr / pound rule

what kind of arrows are you shooting and what weight of tip? I can look up what they weigh

 

I'm sure being in the Military you picked up a lot of good workout habits. Typically you would not work out the same mucsle groups (ex: you don't bench every single day or work your legs every day) When you are shooting so often you have the potential to do some damage to mucles that are used extensively... just a warning.

as for form... my form sux! haha You may want to look for a good instructor or talk to your local archery shop. a lot of time they will have full time staffers who can shoot really well. IF that doesn't work there is a guy on Archery talk who is an excellent resource. Nuts&Bolts (aka: lug nut) he will help you out quite a bit if you ask him.

 

if your shooting 53 pounds on a bow that is supposed to max out at 50 I'd be leery of it... I'm always leary of people pulling more weight then they are rated for. Some people do it all the time without a problem. call me a cautious pansy but I would never over weight the limbs. Upping the draw weight even more is just asking for issues IMHO.

The difference in speed won't be huge, but it will help a little. I would lengthen the DL, lower the draw weight and shorten the D-Loop. All this will equal out and you'll be shooting correctly at the same speed and within the specs of the bow.

also it will let you shoot a slightly lighter arrow.

 

if my math is correct:

(7.1 * 24) + 100 + 12 = 282.4

Min for your bow: 53 * 5 (assuming it is 5 GPP and not 6 GPP) = 265 grains min

so you are at 5.32 / pound which is in line with the min that you need so you are safe there assuming you are using 4" duraveins. if you switch to 2 inch blazers yours looking at about 2 grains / fletching instead of 4. - drops total arrow weight to 276.4 give or take (5.21 gpp)

your running pretty close to minimum weight allowed.