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Discussion in 'Bowhunting forum' started by lungbuster, Dec 3, 2006.
what do people think on paper tuning?? need to do it or not???
yes as a place to start...but not the end all....
I have never put alot of confidence into paper tuning. I mean I do not want my arrow whipping all around on me but usually a little tear and things are manageable for me.:noidea:
I like being able to do it, gives you a idea of whats going on faster then trying to see what the arrow is doing, do you NEED to do it, pry not, I however in the end, am more interested in how my bow groups, other then how small the tear is..... but it seems, the closer to bullet hole in the paper, the more forgiving the shot is... Most of the time i paper tune till i have a tip to the left of the fletch tear, about 1/8 inch or so, my trykon really seems to like it....
I think you should do it...only because you can't see what the arrows doing most of the time...but I think groups are more important also...
I feel that paper tuning is a very good starting point, I just don't think its a cure for all, so I would not recommend getting obsessed with a perfect bullet hole
paper tuning - yes
Had you asked me about paper tuning yesterday I would have replied that I wished I had never heard of it!
For about two weeks I've been tweeking my bow (Magna Tec cam & 1/2) after buying a new string and cables.
Today I went out with my paper testing rig and felt that after all I really should bite the bullet and loosen that allen and move my rest a little tiny bit.
I did and after about two hundred sloppy holes over the last two weeks, today I got pure bullets.
Paper testing will drive you crazy if you haven't checked your nock height, sync, spine and trueness of test arrows, etc. FIRST. All it will tell you is that your shaft is planing through the air.
To see arrows coming correctly out of a bow (in great slow mo') copy and paste this: youtube korean archery impossible challenge
Yes,paper tuneing is important.but there is more to it than that you need to:
1.do a Visual inspection and measurements of your bow to factory spec's.
2.you need to check your Tiller,Tiller Tuning is for repeating grip placement,a properly tillered bow will feel better in your hands.
3.Creep Tuning,you don't have a dual cam bow so this does not apply to you but proper rotation is very important for single cam bow's.
4.Paper Tune,just because an arrow tears a bullet hole does not make it hit the bullseye every time. you can have arrows that fly well and not group well.
5.Group Tune.Group tuning take's some time,and so does writing it:biggrin1: but i'm here to help.so here it go's:
with a line of masking tape or any tape. placed horizontally on a piece of cardboard or target. Shoot alot of arrows at the tape and write down your results. If you are hitting the tape every time you are lucky! If not, you need to make very small adjustments to your knocking point (usually 1/32 of an inch) and shoot again. Keep making adjustments up and down until you are consistently hitting the tape. writing down the results is very important, this way you can return your knocking point to the position where you were getting the best shot's.use a micro tune rest,tthis makes adjustment's very easy. You can use the reference marks on the rest to return the rest to the best position.I hope this helps you out if you do this right,you will notice higher tournament score's and a better shooting rig.eace: :rockon:
I have never done the group tuning before but have heard of it. At what distance should you be shooting? Should you also put a piece of tape vertically to get your left and right dialed in?
Do you promise better tournament scores? :laugh:
i do it at 20 yards or around that.ya you can do the vert. line but i do the left and right whil paper tuning.it will work ether way.and if you do the tuning right yes your scores will go up.
I don't paper tune much anymore . I get too many false readings ,and I get better results with walkback and broadhead tuning .
i is good to paper tune ur bow bc your arrows will shoot straighter..