Peep rotation from bowmancustom strings

Discussion in 'Archery, How To Section' started by Mathews Man, Aug 14, 2008.

  1. Mathews Man

    Mathews Man Foam Killer

    1. The very first thing an archer must understand is that all strings will settle. That is, it will stabilize into a position where it will have the least amount of stress or potential for movement. Never draw the bow without an arrow nocked.After installing the peep on a new string, make note of which way the peep is facing. This position you will use as your guide. Now, without trying to aim, nock an arrow, point it safely at the target butt and release. You should notice that the peep has changed position. This will happen regardless of who made the string set you purchased. The string is becoming seated and on it’s way to settling. When bought, a new string is placed from a relaxed attitude to the highest continuous kinetic stress of any modern material. It must change. The string will creep, however slight and compress on itself because of the flex from the limbs. This is what the cause of peep rotation is all about. The stress of the bow will move the string to its’ most stable mode after all the shots have had their effect. Most manufacturers recommend that a string should be shot a couple of hundred times before it could be considered settled. This article will show you an easier way. Your peep is your guide and also your tool to knowing for yourself when a string has settled rather than guessing from shot quantity.

    2. The bow must be shot until there is no movement from the peep. This is where the archer will know that the string has settled. After you have shot the required number of times, you’ll notice the peep will be in exactly the same position after shooting no matter how many times shot. It could take as little as a dozen shots or as many as a few hundred. Regardless of the amount, the string WILL settle. This is the time to go to the next step. You have a constant to work with now. Bear in mind that this constant is a relative term as your string has already so much twist over its’ length.

    3. Draw the bow slowly (nocked) and watch how the peep moves as the string goes through the draw cycle. This is the indicator. The archer then knows what to do with the peep.After drawing the bow and watching which way the peep moved, you must place it in the bow press.If your peep rotates from right to left, you will have to take the string off the lower post (finger/centre serving side for Solo cam bows) and turn it from right to left. How much you turn will depend on how much the string rotates through the draw cycle. The string is doing what it wants to do. All you do is help it go where it wants. This is very important. For a half turn rotation, turn the string a half turn. Draw and shoot the bow a number of times to re-settle the peep. If it still does not roll into your eye view, repeat the process or even try an additional full turn. Always shoot the bow a number of times the re-settle the peep before checking for position. If it rotates too far, turn the string back a half turn at a time. Never do more than a half to a full turn at a time because you are close to where the string wants to be at rest. Too many turns gives a settled string much more than it wants to do. I describe it this way to make it easier to visualize. Always, a little at a time will give much better results.

    4. If the peep sits exactly opposite to the position desired the next step is quite simple. The archer then just flips the peep to face him/her.Flipping the peep requires you to go to the bow press again. You don’t have to relax the string completely. Relax only enough to be able to get the peep out and turn it a half turn. Remember that each time the bow is in the press, it has to be shot to re-settle.

    5. Sometimes the archer will notice that the peep sits at ¾ of the way no matter what he does. At this point the archer knows he is so close any post or peep movement is too much.If you can’t seem to get the peep in the right place no matter what is done, you are almost at its’ optimum position. Any post or peep adjustment that is too far and you haven’t yet pulled your hair out is the time to flip strands. This step requires the most care and you go back to the bow press. Relax the string again as in the previous step. Look carefully at the direction of the string twist (all bowstrings MUST have twist and never buy one without). For example, if the normal twist of the string is from right to left and your peep must move to the left an 8th of a turn, give or take, do this. On the face of the peep facing you most, take 2 strands from the left side and flip them to the right side. On the opposite face, take 2 strands from the right side and flip them to the left side. This will pull the peep over to the direction you want. If you want to move it slightly the other way, just do the same steps in the opposite direction. I chose 2 strands for simplicity but there is no set number. The more strands means more movement. This last step is done only when all the previous steps were done first. Draw and shoot the bow a number of times to re-settle the string. This system for taming peep rotation is also effective for archers using string loops. The only difference is that the string loop must be turned as well and more care taken to allow the string its’ movement. Remember: always let the string go where it wants and let it finish what it wants to do.There you have it. This method does work and it must be done properly. An archer may have to play with this a couple of times as string quality varies tremendously from one manufacturer to the next. It is my experience that in a short time, sometimes as quick as a half hour, you are freed of those loud, clumsy string additions that slow a bow down by as much as 10 - 20 ft per second. Peep rotation can be a headache. If an archer slows down and follows a set system of steps, then he can enjoy and explore his potential with much more confidence and pleasure. Good Luck . . . and Good Shooting
  2. TomT

    TomT New Member

    Ovation Info

    Got an Ovation and shot it for about three years now. Am thinking of improving the sights and rest. Looking at the Sure-Loc Lethal Weapon single post, or a Sure-Loc Challenger Ultra 550, both with a 29 or 35 MM shroud. I'm getting really tired of the Extreme Sniper multi-post I have now.
    Are drop away rests any good?
    Any other Ovation tips would be appreciated.

  3. Ronhop

    Ronhop RIP

    I have an '06 Ovation I use for target and I use a Mathews (convertible) rest in drop away 'mode' for it. It's easy to set up and tune. It comes with prongs (and instructions) to use it as a non-drop away, shoot through style rest. It's very well made and costs just a bit more ($110 street price about) than some of the other generic drop aways, but is custom to Mathews risers and provides setup flexibility. The fitup to the riser is perfect and the tuning is very simple and just really nice. I would recommend the Mathews rest to anyone who has a Mathews bow. That rest covers about 90% (or more) of what an archer would want to do with a rest in a compound bow.

    Shooting an Ovation is a pleasure and I love mine.

    On sights.... You need to check them out and pick one that makes sense for what you use the bow for and what kind of sight picture you want. I use my Ovation for target only so I have a Sureloc with a 29mm scope and an appropriate 1/16 peep. If I were to every try and use it for hunting I would go with a Copper John dovetail 4 pin sight and probably a 3/16 peep. Never tried that though, my Ovation is in Blueberry target colors and deer can see blue better than anything in the red 'zone'... :laugh:

    Good luck with your choices and your Ovation.

    Last edited: Nov 16, 2008
  4. TomT

    TomT New Member

    Thanks for the info

    Thanks for the info. Mine is an '04 in "Blueberry" too, and I don't use if for hunting either. With your Sure-Lock, can you get out to 80 yards?
    I plan on putting in a 10 target walking range on my property, and need the flexibility of a sight that can be adjusted from 12 to 80 yards. I can't get enough adjustment out of my existing Extreme Sniper, and am tired of multiple pins as they are distracting and hard to center for me.

  5. grizz49

    grizz49 Old Archer

    Good Post

    Very Well Stated! Thank You!
  6. Ancient Archer

    Ancient Archer New Member

    Nicely done! Very informative and helpful.
  7. elkslayer4x5

    elkslayer4x5 EastOutfitters

    Thanks for the tip! I'm always looking for a new method to do anything. :)