Where should an arrow be cut?

Discussion in 'Bowhunting forum' started by Southernfryedyankee, Mar 3, 2007.

  1. Southernfryedyankee

    Southernfryedyankee Senior Member

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    To the front of the riser whereas only the broadhead will extend past it. Or just past the arrow rest?
     
  2. Wheely

    Wheely Wheely Threads

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    I am going to try and answer this one, If you are going to ever put broadheads on the arrows, cut past the riser, be sure when you draw, the broadhead doesn't touch your fingers, don't want any cut fingers :biggrin1: If you are only going to use the arrows with points you can cut it just past the rest, this will make your arrows a little lighter and faster.
     

  3. Dredly

    Dredly Site Guru

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    i typically cut ALL arrows 1 inch longer then the rest. just because you never know what will happen when you switch bows.
     
  4. Holy Smokes

    Holy Smokes Senior Member

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    Both are good answers. 1st 1 is a failsafe 2nd 1 is universal 1. With the new expandables it is ok to do the 1" deal although I am skeptical of tha expandables>. I do the 1 to 1 1/2 " deal. with great results. 9 deers -1 turkey in 2 last years. HS
     
  5. BUNNYMAN

    BUNNYMAN I pray for you!

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    well first we need to know a little more info on your setup......are you shooting carbons or alluminums???
     
  6. Southernfryedyankee

    Southernfryedyankee Senior Member

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    carbons, the setup is as follows

    Bowtech tribute 65#
    Soon to be hunter hogg it sight grrrrrrrrrrrrr :)
    I am in need of a new arrow rest trying to decide between NAP quick tune 4000, Golden key futura mirage or Spot Hogg Whammy

    And for the time being CE terminator hunters 6075 (they were on clearance at walmart for $5) Who can pass up a deal like that? I couldnt!
     
  7. Holy Smokes

    Holy Smokes Senior Member

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    Heres is my $1.00 worth(Inflation boys).
    '
    if it can tear yup it is gonna. Strings can get caught in stuff in the woods . Things can wear out.
    I keep it very simple when it comes to one of tha most importat parts of tha arrow guideance system. Tha sacared rest.
    I use the futura I call them Lizarad tounges. Inverted V Plastic, durable, and consitant. I put a light ,thin , metal shim 1/2 way under my tounge. Ain't never had no trouble folks> I guess I have killed over a 100 deers> wished I had keep count. But to each his own, Hey these are inexpensive an easy to tune. i ahve got them for 12 $,. HS
     
  8. BUNNYMAN

    BUNNYMAN I pray for you!

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    ok how about draw length and tip weight????
     
  9. Southernfryedyankee

    Southernfryedyankee Senior Member

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    UMMMMMMMMMMM ok you got me there as far as draw length, tip weight will be 100-125 depending on my broadhead, Im one of those I like to see what my bows favorite food is kinda guy.
     
  10. BUNNYMAN

    BUNNYMAN I pray for you!

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    you kinda need to know your draw length and the tip weight you want to use.....you will need to cut them to a specifec length based on draw weight, length, arrow spine, and tip weight......a arrow cut at 27 inches w/a 100 grain head, may fly the same as a arrow cut at 28 w/a 75 grain head.....

    Rather than cutting carbon arrows to what looks right on a bow you need to cut them to what flys best.......

    the reason you used to cut alluminums as short as you could was for weight reduction......

    w/carbons light weight and speed are not as much of a factor as carbons are very light to begin with.....
     
  11. Southernfryedyankee

    Southernfryedyankee Senior Member

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    on my last bow the arrows were cut to 29.5" this bow is slightly longer as this was more comfortable. I have not cut the arrows yet. I will also not be using expandables if that helps any. On my last bow I was shooting 100g muzzies, at the moment I have 100g NAP thunderheads (ahhhhhh aslo clearanced) but I was thinking about going with montecs or slick tricks. I hope this helps.
     
  12. BUNNYMAN

    BUNNYMAN I pray for you!

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    which means it will be even more important to get the arrows tuned to your equipment.....